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A Mechanic's Life - Tales From Under the Hood

2927 messages,  Last post on May 23, 2013 at 6:16 PM

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     This topic is primarily for professional mechanics, current or retired, or ardent amateurs who would like to share the suprises, victories, tricks and challenges of working on the modern automobile. All Forums members are invited, of course, to ask technicians about their work, or comment on your own experiences dealing with mechanics.
 
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Messages Page 119 of 294

#1176 of 2927 Re: Here's a good one [thecardoc3] by steve_ HOST

Feb 04, 2013 (7:45 am)

Replying to: thecardoc3 (Feb 04, 2013 7:39 am)
Which debate? Consumers have to buy oil that only has the manufacturer's label on it?
 
Or you comment that your oil was "clear", as if that meant something?
 
(btw, is your shop closed today? ).

#1177 of 2927 Re: Here's a good one [steve_] by thecardoc3

Feb 04, 2013 (7:44 am)

Replying to: steve_ (Feb 04, 2013 7:25 am)
Like the unscrupulous people who show someone their dipstick and say it must be changed because it's black? Or worse, the engine must be flushed.
 
Unscrupulous. Nice word. Exactly who created and sold those engine flush machines and when did Edmunds ever do a story on how they and their use was presented as real training for the shops and technicians?
 
Is there never a time to use such a piece of equipment? Does it have no value at all? (FWIW, I don't own one)
 
You really need to follow through with the SynPower 5W30 MST issue as I outlined. You wouldn't want to appear to be unscrupulous would you?

#1178 of 2927 Re: Here's a good one [thecardoc3] by steve_ HOST

Feb 04, 2013 (7:48 am)

Replying to: thecardoc3 (Feb 04, 2013 7:44 am)
No thanks, I just want to be able to buy jugs off the shelf at Walmart without having to take my owner's manual and a magnifying glass into the store to read the labels.
 
If I wanted to spend years talking about the minutia of motor oil, I could have been hanging out in Engine Oil - A slippery subject Part 2 all this time.

#1179 of 2927 Re: Here's a good one [steve_] by thecardoc3

Feb 04, 2013 (8:35 am)

Replying to: steve_ (Feb 04, 2013 7:48 am)
No thanks, I just want to be able to buy jugs off the shelf at Walmart without having to take my owner's manual and a magnifying glass into the store to read the labels.
 
Perfect, then you should be praising GM for the dexos1 licensing. You only need to look at the front of the bottle and you are assured to be purchasing the correct product. (Or not)
 
The exercise is critical to properly explain the differences in the oil products to the consumers. They can walk in the door and buy Valvoline SynPower 5W30, but is it the North American version, or is it the European one. They are completely different products. Both are good products, and will serve the consumers well but only if they know how to choose the one that matches their car. Your refusal to assit the consumer in this matter is puzzling. BTW, where is Ron? Maybe he will explain it. Unless of course someone has something to hide.

#1180 of 2927 Re: Here's a good one [steve_] by thecardoc3

Feb 04, 2013 (9:32 am)

Replying to: steve_ (Feb 04, 2013 7:45 am)
Nope, it's a blessing to be able to type at some 2000wph.
 
The list of what I have already completed today includes an 5000 mile service on a 2000 Accord, replaced and programmed a PCM on a 2001 Taurus, brake inspection on another Honda, it needs the front pads and the rotors machined. Plus the LH engine mount on a silverado 4WD 8.1l.
 
Which debate? Consumers have to buy oil that only has the manufacturer's label on it
 
Nope, that is distorting the issue. Consumers need to buy the products for their cars that meet the manufactures specifications. The problem is "How do they know for sure which products do, and which ones do not meet the specs for their car" Is there a reason why you repeatedly have to try and attempt to misrepresent the real issue?
 
I really don't want to be a pr!(& here, but its time that consumers, and any shops/techs who may wander through here are told what they really need to know, and not the polished version one sided version that they have been getting fed. This also works for things like the engine flush. It takes a lot of nerve to bash the shops who made the investment, because they thought they were doing right by their customers, only to find out in a back handed way that it was not a good choice. Why didn't Edmunds address the issue in a way that might have prevented some of these shops from buying the machine in the first place? They (you) have no problem assailing it but you never tried to prevent the idea from catching on. What was that word you used, "Unscrup...."???
 
BTW I just got a call from another shop for a SKIM issue on a Chrysler. I'll be hitting the road for an hour or so to address it for them. See if Ron can post and explain those Euro specs and how one oil meets all of them before I have to.

#1182 of 2927 Re: Here's a good one [thecardoc3] by steve_ HOST

Feb 04, 2013 (9:42 am)

Replying to: thecardoc3 (Feb 04, 2013 8:35 am)
Perfect, then you should be praising GM for the extra cost of the dexos1 licensing.
 
There, fixed it for you.
 
(Ron is in the home office a couple of thousand miles away locked away behind the editorial firewall. Don't recall ever meeting him).

#1183 of 2927 Re: Here's a good one [steve_] by thecardoc3

Feb 04, 2013 (9:48 am)

Replying to: steve_ (Feb 04, 2013 9:42 am)
Perfect, then you should be praising GM for the extra cost of the dexos1 licensing
 
 I have purchased a dexos1 licensed product by the case, on sale, under $4.00 a quart. I bought 2 cases, so it wasn't even like I had to buy a pallet of the stuff to get that price.

#1184 of 2927 Re: Here's a good one [thecardoc3] by steve_ HOST

Feb 04, 2013 (10:25 am)

Replying to: thecardoc3 (Feb 04, 2013 9:48 am)
SuperTech runs around $12 for 5 quarts last I checked. This deal ends today, but you can get 5 quarts of Quaker State and a filter for $7 after rebate. (link)
 
Too bad you can only use it for green Kias on Tuesdays.

#1185 of 2927 Re: Here's a good one [thecardoc3] by gimmestdtranny

Feb 04, 2013 (11:55 am)

Replying to: thecardoc3 (Feb 04, 2013 9:32 am)
06 CRV
rt rear rotor/hub/wheel bearing assembly
 
Can a seizing (or reluctant to return after brake application) caliper cause a rotor to run warm enough to smell a bit hot, can that cook enough grease out of the way to cause a WB to fail..in about 600 miles over a couple months (10 mi /day at 35 mph and 50 mile trips at 50 mph once a week) or so of that condition?
 
This generation of CRV are known to have troublesome rear brakes apparently.
 
I have heard strange sounds in the past of a WB going in..well a few cars over the years but one that was the most elusive to determine which end and side was the culprit, was an old Samurai (live axles on frame). Anyway, pretty sure this noise is coming from the suspect right rotor (rubbing, altho is not hot anymore, only gets warm) and the noise is not nearly as discernible/loud now. This is why I can't be sure the WB was affected by this initially hot rotor. I intend to buy a pair of new rear rotors (they incorporate a Parking brake drum also) in any event, and possibly a new caliper if I can't get the new aftermkt pads not grd down enough to fit enough to not drag. The cast positioning tabs had to be grd in order to fit. yes, should have bought OEM.
 
The reason I would like an opinion on this is if the WB is shot, it is fairly expensive, as the entire assembly including all suspension and trailing/originating links have to come out. It is AWD. It also houses the stability control sensor pickups. I don't want to get into the WB if you think that a hot rotor is unlikely responsible for causing the WB to go. Car has only 55k miles on it. And rarely has anyone in back seat or loaded heavy.
 
Even when it got fairly hot, I could put my hand (end of my fingers reached in) on the centre hub part. But could not do that on the rotor itself, was too hot to touch safely. I put a laser Class 2 temp gauge on the hub one day when I got home but forget what the reading was..I think the hub was about 110 and the rotor was 125 or so..
 
I wish I had someone who could hang out the window in the back seat and listen.
So to sum up:
 
- Any tips on discerning a WB sound going, vs a rubbing pads on the rotor?
 
- Could that hot rotor take out the WB's? Or is 55k miles and a bad WB not unheard of on these CRV's?
 
 I know WB often don't last nearly as long as they used to as pursued weight savings have made them all smaller and lighter rotors and hubs/WB etc to save weight.

Messages Page 119 of 294

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