Last post on Feb 28, 2012 at 9:56 AM
You are in the Subaru Legacy & Outback
What is this discussion about?
Subaru Legacy, Subaru Outback, Brakes, Transmission, Sedan, Wagon
#9 of 13 Re: clutch and AWD [krzyss]
Jan 26, 2012 (3:19 pm)
Thank for the input. I have been watching my downshifting and using the breaks instead of the engin to slow down .. .I like to be in the right gear for a quick takeoff or manuver.
So far I haven't smelled anything but then again not traction problems either because the weather has been soo nice. Will drop back in a week or so with more update.
#10 of 13 Re: Downshifting on 2011 Legacy (manual) [gm66montreal]
Jan 26, 2012 (3:27 pm)
I have noted the same problem when below zero, I am certain its just the grease in the gear shifter that gets more viscus when cold.
My previous manual car had similar, but not as noticable problem. I am living with it at the moment, I expect it will 'loosen up a bit' with more miles on the clock.
#11 of 13 Re: Downshifting on 2011 Legacy (manual) [gm66montreal]
Jan 26, 2012 (3:30 pm)
Is the shifter difficult to move, or just not want to slip into gear? If it was not winterized at the dealership, it may have 80w-90 in the transmission. Switching to a 75w-90 synthetic would help significantly in that temperature range. And, if the car is sluggish to move at that temperature, I would also swap out the differential oil while you're at it.
#12 of 13 2010 Legacy Spark Plug Change 2.5l
Feb 27, 2012 (6:03 pm)
I have about 55k on a 4 cyl model, no turbo. The spark plugs look very accessible and I am going to change them. Just wanted to checkin to see if there may be an issue before getting into it. I am definetely not a mechanic - just an oil changer! I've had no problems with this car by the way - definately a good car for me.
#13 of 13 Re: 2010 Legacy Spark Plug Change 2.5l [tsizzle]
Feb 28, 2012 (9:56 am)
There shouldn't be any problems. They do sit deep into the heads, so you'll likely need one or more extensions on your socket, but I have found it to not be too difficult, even on previous generations, which were much tighter than current. I found that with my cars, I needed to remove the air box on one side and the battery on the other, and use a universal joint directly out of the socket (between it and the extension) in order to clear the frame for the #3 and #4 cylinders.