Last post on Apr 19, 2013 at 1:22 PM
You are in the Subaru Impreza
What is this discussion about?
Subaru Impreza, Subaru, Sedan, Wagon
#1178 of 1605 VERY IMPORTANT concerning 2012 Impreza oil filter
Apr 26, 2012 (11:33 am)
I just went to a Subaru dealer near work to get my first oil change yesterday- I get home and check the oil level - ONE INCH OVER full - if thats not bad enough, I look at the oil filter - didn't look like original. I went to the dealer this morning and he takes the car in right away - Works on it and states oil level has been corrected apologizes and shows me a Subaru Bulletin PB001133 that "HE" states says the two filter numbers are interchangeable - I look at it and say,YES, for the 2.5 Subaru Forester BUT the next paragraph states for 2012 Impreza you MUST USE part 15208AA160 or it wont function correctly - THATS SUBARU's words not mine. The dealer had put on part 15208AA130 which can ONLY be switched on the Forester NOT the IMPREZA.
Make sure, since its easy to see, that your oil filter is part 15208AA160 ( as listed in the manual) when you get an oil change - the dealer didn't even have the filter, he had to send out for it - I now have a loaner
#1179 of 1605 Re: VERY IMPORTANT concerning 2012 Impreza oil filter [rxman4]
Apr 27, 2012 (7:54 am)
strange, 1 inch higher is way more than the volume of the oil filter itself (which, should have been picked up at the dealer at servicing, as it would only take a few seconds to reach level). I'd bet the difference in the filters is a drainback check valve, which wouldn't matter in the Forester (filter pointed down) but would matter on the Impreza (filter pointed up).
#1180 of 1605 Re: VERY IMPORTANT concerning 2012 Impreza oil filter [once_for_all]
Apr 27, 2012 (8:25 am)
Well, it wouldn't matter in the Forester up to the 2011 model year only. It was the first Subaru model to receive an FB-series block, with the oil filter mounted on the top of the engine. So, for current Foresters, the drainback issue would be as pertinent as it is with the 2012 Impreza.
#1181 of 1605 Re: VERY IMPORTANT concerning 2012 Impreza oil filter [once_for_all]
Apr 27, 2012 (8:44 am)
The only time that has ever happened to me, '92 LS400 at Lexus of Bellevue, the X McD flipper had neglicted to drain the old oil before dumping in the new.
#1182 of 1605 Re: VERY IMPORTANT concerning 2012 Impreza oil filter [rxman4]
Apr 27, 2012 (10:11 am)
Fortunately should be no harm done because the oil had just been changed, so it's not like the (brand new) filter had a ton of filth in it that flowed back in to the engine.
Nice catch, though. I also inspect stuff after its service. I even stopped taking my Sienna to shops to get even free oil changes because they would over-tighten it every single time.
#1183 of 1605 Re: Ship time for 5-door [dcm61]
Apr 28, 2012 (7:48 am)
I'm glad to see that some of you are getting VINs and good delivery dates but I wish I had the same luck. I've been waiting since Jan 15th, still have no VIN, and was riding on my 3rd est. delivery (Apr) until today. I just got off the phone with SOA and was told that my date changed to May and they are still trying to figure out why I don't have a VIN yet.
This sucks because normally I would be able to get my dealership to swap cars with another dealer but there are zero 5-doors available in Utah and zero in the pipeline. It sucks a little more because, as I told SOA, they miss dates and add months which is extremely inconvienient for customers. I told them that since they have stopped taking orders for 2012's they are setting people up to get brand new 1 year old cars the minute they take the first order for a 2013.
I've done my homework and found out that there are quite a few 5-doors sitting on lots in the Eastern states (which I suspect are deliveries from cancelled orders). I asked them what the possibility of shipping a car from IL or PA (dealers in both states have exact matches to my order) and they tried to tell me that I would have to work that through my dealer. I told them that moves can be made by dealers within the regions but not from out of region to which they agreed (I guess their booger flicking back to the dealer wasn't such a good response after all). They said they would look into it an call me back Monday.
So now when/if they call back on Monday I'm going to have to give a deadline; get the car here from Japan no later than 15 May or find a car to get here by then. I'm pretty sure they'll try to make me or my dealer pay for shipping but I think they should cover that since anything beyond a 90 day wait for a car is extremely unreasonable and anything over a 30 day wait for a VIN is completely crazy. IMHO their problems are terrible tracking and transportation.
Sorry for my rant, I'm trying to exercise as much tact with them as possible but I'm starting to run low. With luck they already have a policy in place for the times they can't deliver and I'm really hoping their policy isn't to cancel orders and ignore the problems.
#1184 of 1605 no shipments on east either
Apr 28, 2012 (8:40 am)
I ordered my 5 door Impreza Limited hatchback mid March, and was told I had another 6 weeks of waiting. I said that a few other colors would be ok with me (not black or white) but there are none to be had in the region. In the meantime, I am racking up the miles on my soon to be trade in Forester which needs an oil change now. I don't understand what the holdup is, since I've never ordered a car before. I have to agree, now that new cars are coming out, I'll be getting an older version which price should be reduced. I'm thinking of canceling, but I really want that specific car. Sigh...........
#1185 of 1605 First post ever...
Apr 28, 2012 (3:19 pm)
Took 3 weeks to find, but I finally found the '12 Limited Dark Gray 5-door I was looking for. My brother in-law picked up a Sport Limited back in Jan (he ordered his), which turned me on to it. This is my first Subaru! My previous ride was a monster compared to this ('03 GMC Yukon) in both size and mpg. I've only been driving the car for 3 days, but I find myself itching to take random drives everywhere I can (trying to break-in the engine as soon as possible, lol)
Considering how hard they are to come by in the trim/color combo I think I got a decent deal on mine. $23,029 + TTL with a Moonroof, Cross Bar Set. I added the 10" Sub ($640.00 installed; I know, I got ripped off on that one, lol), but I wish I had the Auto-dimming mirror (which I may still add on). Less the mirror, I got everything else I wanted, and the Cross bar set was an added bonus.
I had to drive 80 miles to get home from the dealership I got it from, fluctuating speeds between 55-75, but not revving past 3.5k rpm at all. I did rev up to 6k rpm once for a split second, only because I forgot I was in "manual" and kept it in 1st gear. I do have a slight uphill highway drive to/ from work, but I don't need to strain the engine to get over it.
I'm still somewhat of a newbie when it comes to breaking-in new engines but I just wanted to ask if the ride home from the dealer (80+ miles of highway driving starting from 10 miles on the odometer), as well as my daily commute up a slight incline are a detriment to the break-in period . Lastly, did I get a decent deal?
I'm looking forward to many more years in this car and love it a bit more every time I drive it.
#1186 of 1605 Re: First post ever... [crlsto]
Apr 28, 2012 (3:50 pm)
Congrats on the new Subaru!
Price really depends on where you are in the country. Some pay less some pay more. For the engine break in, I'm not an expert, but I'd say just take it easy and limit the revs and it should be just fine.
The Subie is way different than that Yukon! Have fun driving. We have an 03 Tahoe, to go along with two Subarus. The Impreza is the fun one.
#1187 of 1605 Re: First post ever... [crlsto]
Apr 28, 2012 (5:11 pm)
There's two ways to badly 'break in' an engine. The most common way is to drive it like it's extremely fragile. This prevents the cylinder wall/ring interface from smoothing out/wearing to a tight clearance. The you get high oil consumption.
The second way is to use full throttle on a cold engine, which will deform the pistons before they have had a chance to relieve built-in stresses from manufacturing.
The best way to break in any engine is to fully warm it up, and then to use near-full-throttle for a few seconds at a time to wear-in the rings and cylinder walls. Do this at least a dozen times. Let completely off the throttle after that, to get oil back on the rings.
I first read of this back in the '70's, and have used it on every engine I own. 7 cars and 11 cycles and 1 snomobile. None of them burned enough oil between oil changes to need oil added after 5,000 to 7,500 miles. All of them had exceptional compression. (My 2000 Outback had such great compression after 95,000 miles that the mechanic checked it twice, and them remarked about it to me after replacing the timing belts!)
You should do this before you put too many more miles on your car.