Last post on Dec 09, 2013 at 4:47 AM
You are in the Ford F-Series
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Ford F-150, Truck
#185 of 276 Re: 3-mode 2-compressor BS [wwest]
Apr 24, 2012 (5:10 pm)
013 RDX 3.5L V6 273HP..............27MPG hwy
2012 RDX 2.3L I4/DFI/turbo 240HP.....22MPG hwy
And that's not even without DFI for the new RDX V6 engine.
As usual, you don't have the facts straight. The 2013 RDX also gets a 6 speed transmission vs a 5 speed for the 2012 model. Plus Acura's 2.3 turbo IS NOT direct injected. So as usual, you're talking out of your sphincter!
What does this have to do with Ford and what is Ford lying about? Does it not produce the power or return the mileage Ford claims? The guys I know that actually own Ecoboost f150's have been happy with both the power and the FE. My main question remains with durability and that's yet to be determined.
#186 of 276 Re: 3-mode 2-compressor BS [wwest]
Apr 24, 2012 (5:23 pm)
Additionally the rumor is that the Mazda CX-7 w/I4 turbo is on the way out in favor of the new CX-5 w/SkyActiv engine, 12:1 of US to allow regular fuel but 14:1 elsewhere requiring premium.
But it will have no where near the power of the turbo 4. The new 2.0 SkyActiv engine with it's 13:1 compression ratio will only have 155hp and 150 ft-lbs of torque which is basically 100hp and 100ft-lbs of torque short of the 2.3 DI Turbo. I'll gladly give up a few MPG to drive a vehicle that can get out of its own way.
Jun 07, 2012 (6:33 pm)
What is this nonsense about sacrificing fuel efficiency 98% of the time?
You're still falsely assuming that the turbos are not engaging during all acceleratory runs, and all hills.
You read Wikipedia and now you are married to the idea that CR is the only way to make efficiency gains, which is false. When it comes to high-torque applications, nothing can touch the EB's efficiency (minus a diesel). That is at ANY rpm or throttle application.
Accelerating under boost is more efficient than NA acceleration, including NA, DI, with similar torque ratings. Combustion efficiency caused by high CR works best in low-torque applications. At anything other than an idle, NA engines cannot get enough air through vacuum alone to produce as high a torque at as low an rpm as a boosted engine. They have to rev to achieve higher vacuum, and hence the creates wasted heat through friction of the cylinders with the extra revs.
And even on the highway, idle is not 100% of the time. Even Nebraska has slight inclines, merges, passing...
CR is only a theoretical indication of efficiency at any given rpm. When you add the variable of what an NA engine has to rev to to achieve meaningful torque, the efficiency skews highly towards Ecoboost.
#188 of 276 Re: What the? Wwest... [bigmclargehuge]
Jun 07, 2012 (6:31 pm)
How does it feel, wwest, to be totally outclassed intellectually:
I asked those that tune and work on turbocharged engines. They confirm I've been correct, and you have been belligerently ignorant.
Every single thing you've said about turbocharged engine operation has been wrong. You wasted significant time, numerous pages of text, $12, and your last remaining functioning brain cells adamantly defending points that were wrong.
Stop trolling Ecoboost forums, or at least troll one like F150 forums where half the posters are mechanics. Because 1-on-1 you just get more belligerent, even when I was talking total sense to you.
It would be entertaining to see you defend your 'guesses' in that crowd. Its even a way better value than your subscription to Ford parts, where you gained only a false perspective
#190 of 276 eco boost power delivery problems
Aug 19, 2012 (11:17 am)
I have a 2012 F150 Lariat Super Crew 4x4 eco boost with just over 3,000 miles on it. I ordered it specced out just like I wanted. This has been my all time favorite vehicle and I just filled out the new owner survey giving glowing reviews in all areas. During the new truck evaluation process I test drove a 5.0 liter and the twin turbo 6 back to back and the six cylinder won hands down. Compared to my previous 2007 Ram Hemi, this engine has far more power at all speeds...in fact, it's hard not to push the pedal down to the floor just to get that feeling of being pushed back in the seat. Now for the fly in the ointment: My wife and I took a road trip this weekend and experienced 5 cases of the engine just cutting out under hard acceleration. The first time I was pulling on the interstate and pushed the gas hard at about 40 mph to get up to the 70mph of on-coming traffic. The transmission seemed to stay locked in 4th gear and pressing the gas had no effect. I let off the gas thinking the engine would "catch up" but it took a good minute to minute and a half for the engine to get back to life. I hoped it was a one time fluke, but coming back we had the same thing happen at every on-ramp and one time I hit the gas to move from the slow lane into the fast lane and had no power at all. The whole truck shudders and the engine and transmission both seem non-responsive. Once I got up to speed it performed just fine. I looked at some other forums and this seems to be a common problem with no solution. Does anyone have any thoughts? I'll take it to the dealership in the morning, but I'd be willing to bet they won't be able to duplicate the problem. One other factor is that it was raining which seems to be a common denominator with the problems others are having. This is a major issue which makes the truck unsafe...I certainly hope there's a fix very soon.
#191 of 276 Eco Boost Not ( sevenman )
Sep 24, 2012 (9:20 am)
I have a new F-150 Platium Eco Boost It has shut down on me several times, 19 all together, it has been at Ford service two times, the last time for eight days, they have had the truck almost as long as me. It quit once in the middle of I-75 it was squealing the tires and fishtailing, this is a serious safety issue. normally you can restart it and it will run right for a while, sometimes it will miss badly and can hardly get up to 45mph. This time they said it was a crank sensor, and it should be alright. I have a trip coming up and am afraid to drive it. I think they should replace the truck, but the dealer will not listen. They think they have it fixed, I am 74yrs. old and don't feel like walking. The truck justs jerks, and the wrench lites up on the dash, and then you are on your own. My whole family has worked for Ford Motor Co. But I can't get any help... ontheshoulder
#192 of 276 Re: 2011 Ford F150 Eco Boost [bubbabud]
Sep 24, 2012 (5:02 pm)
I took delivery of my Ecoboost 150 super cab Platinum on 7/29/12 have about 2900 miles on it. Drives very quite and well, plenty of power but gas mileage is on average 13.6 mostly Highway with some city. Even with cruise control on, and on very level west Texas driving condition non-stop 467 miles, managed only 15.1 mpg. no WEIGHT OR TOWING just three persons., checked using (full tank top off to full tank top off). Gauges are a little off They said I had 15.6 MPG and 1.6. more gallons of gas than I really did. Still love the truck, but gas mileage seems to be way short of expectations. I would still recommend it as my 2011 Toyota Tundra get only 14.8 also but is not in the same league as the F150 on everything from comfort to caring load to range to fill up (Ford has 36 gals).
Oct 01, 2012 (6:53 pm)
I purchased a truck with the Ecoboost engine a couple of months ago and am now approaching 3000 miles. I have had zero issues and in mixed driving have averaged around 19mpg and have gotten as good as 24mpg at 75mph on the interstate. I drove trucks equipped with the 5.0 and 3.7 prior to purchase and found that neither offered any competition in terms of acceleration and response but I do zero towing. While I will keep my fingers crossed that I have none of the shutdown issues that some seem to be having, I am very impressed with the drivetrain including the 6 speed transmission. I hope the rest of you are able to resolve those issues and enjoy your trucks as much as I am.
#194 of 276 Re: Eco Boost Not ( sevenman ) [ontheshoulder]
Oct 02, 2012 (5:15 pm)
During highway cruising and due to the resulting constant pressure gradient on the exit side of the intercooler when operating in a climate with a low OAT/Rh span condensate forms inside the exit end cap and you end up with a puddle of water in the bottom of that end cap.
Not a real problem with the low velocity airflow required for simple cruise mode. But romp on the gas pedal, BOOOST comes on, intercooler air velocity goes UP, "washing" much of that puddle of water directly into the intake manifold.
That, of course, results in not just a few misfires and the ECU decides something has gone TERRIBLY wrong and puts the engine in "limp home" mode.
The most obvious DIY cure is to drill a small hole in the very bottom, lowest point, in the intercooler outlet end cap, solder in a modified(***) brass nipple, and couple the nipple to the intake manifold vacuum via a rubber tube.
*** Fill the nipple end with solder and then drill an opening orifice through the solder using the smallest drill bit you can come by.
In cruise mode the high manifold vacuum will suck any condensate, as it forms, into the manifold with a low enough volume no detriment will result.
Assuming the new orifice is small enough the DBW will eventually adapt to the new source of "idle" intake airflow. Or you can force a quicker adaptation via disconnecting the battery briefly.