Ask the Car People.SM


2000 Quest Need Help figuring out whats wrong possibly overheating

5 messages,  Last post on Apr 24, 2013 at 12:33 AM

You are in the Nissan Quest Forum.

What is this discussion about? Nissan Quest, Heating / Cooling, Van

Messages Page 2 of 2

#2 of 5 Re: 2000 Quest Need Help figuring out whats wrong possibly overheating [panthea] by questproblems

Oct 04, 2011 (2:08 pm)

Replying to: panthea (Oct 17, 2010 6:41 am)
I am having the same problem and I am going crazy trying to figure out why it keeps overheating. It is my only vehicle and I dont know what to do. PLEASE HELP ME.

#3 of 5 Quest Coolant problems by johnnathan

May 04, 2012 (2:08 pm)

Here's the situation you two guys got, its kinda the same problem I have had, mine is worse now. Number on Don't have anyone, not even yourself do the cooling system, but Nissan. I have a 1996 mercury Villager, same motor basics. The cooling system must be flushed by the, books say there three bleeder screws when you fill flush and return system anti-freeze. One is to the right on ratiator(plastic -Allen key), the other is on the intake blower just to the right center; by the firewall , the other is by the intake with the plastic off the filter to allunium intake------i couldn't find. Again go to dealer, repeat dealer! My car still has issues. First you should back flush system, this must be done with out the thermost in (Bitch). Then to flush you must have all the paper work or book. At some point the back heater is on high heat and the front is on cold. The the opposite. This is after a back flush. Caution you have Reverse Cooling system!!. You should also blow air in the hearter core lines ReverseLy, as well as rear system heater core. If the car is old like mine, replace REPLACE all heater hoses\\ Don't flush back flush with the hose form house on high, don't Put tape around hose and put the house pressure on to high, system is only 13 lbs. I put small holes in all hoses, from rust inside hose and house pressure at 90 PS I. Now that your flushed.........well drainning you know is at the ratiator left bottom, engine screws are at front bottom block and rear bottom block (13-15mmbolts). Lead system( In dealer ship this is done much easyyer by suction machine causing negitive suction, to the point hoses are collapsed ( just like an air conditioning system) You can't have any, you can't have any air in the block, make sure you put the thermostat in the right direction/the system is a reverse system. Request a blow open thermostat. Put in, not facing block, not facing block!.No put coolant in engine, close engine plugs, all new clamp, hoses,. Let engine warm up the keep checking coolant in rat and in tank don't forget, later with a wire on cap before seal bottom spring then only fill reserve.. then race engine let burp. Check coolant. Now open vent leader of block to get out extra air, close and fill, race witmh rear heat on high, then reverse front on high heat. This is a bitch when you all done make sure you keep the reserve filled,,, for a month! Might as well replace water pump if yo do this at 150k oh and don't don't for get go change timming after150 that late by the way. Goooood Luuuck! Dealer is cheeepre, my car has pre ignition problem, because of the air, from small holes in hoses or bad head-----which I don't believe, this car ran great before I changed thermost. -----Library have research area for car books on line. But go to dealer, you will save money, time nd. Warrentee the work. I spent 1000 dollars, first mecha nic, the jkiffy lube, now me. Three times now shit!,,

#4 of 5 Quest Coolant problems by johnnathan

May 04, 2012 (2:26 pm)

Here's the situation you two guys got, its kinda the same problem I have had, mine is worse now. Number on Don't have anyone, not even yourself do the cooling system, but Nissan. I have a 1996 mercury Villager, same motor basics. The cooling system must be flushed by the, books say there three bleeder screws when you fill flush and return system anti-freeze. One is to the right on ratiator(plastic -Allen key), the other is on the intake blower just to the right center; by the firewall , the other is by the intake with the plastic off the filter to alluminum intake------i couldn't find. Again go to dealer, repeat dealer! My car still has issues. First you should back flush system, this must be done with out the thermostat in (Bitch). Then to flush you must have all the paper work or book. At some point the back heater is on high heat and the front is on cold. The the opposite. This is after a back flush. Caution you have Reverse Cooling system!!. You should also blow air in the heater core lines reversly, as well as rear system heater core. If the car is old like mine, replace REPLACE all heater hoses\\ Don't flush back flush with the hose form house on high, don't Put tape around hose and put the house pressure on to high, system is only 13 lbs. I put small holes in all hoses, from rust inside hose and house pressure at 90 PS I. Now that your flushed.........well draining you know is at the ratiator left bottom, engine screws are at front bottom block and rear bottom block (13-15mmbolts). Lead system( In dealer ship this is done much easyer by suction machine causing negitive suction, to the point hoses are collapsed ( just like an air conditioning system) You can't have any, you can't have any air in the block, make sure you put the thermostat in the right direction/the system is a reverse system. Request a blow open thermostat. Put in, not facing block, not facing block!.No put coolant in engine, close engine plugs, all new clamp, hoses,. Let engine warm up the keep checking coolant in rat and in tank don't forget, later with a wire on cap before seal bottom spring then only fill reserve.. then race engine let burp. Check coolant. Now open vent leader of block to get out extra air, close and fill, race witmh rear heat on high, then reverse front on high heat. This is a bitch when you all done make sure you keep the reserve filled,,, for a month! Might as well replace water pump if yo do this at 150k oh and don't don't for get go change timming after150 that late by the way. Goooood Luuuck! Dealer is cheeepre, my car has pre ignition problem, because of the air, from small holes in hoses or bad head-----which I don't believe, this car ran great before I changed thermost. -----Library have research area for car books on line. But go to dealer, you will save money, time nd. Warrentee the work. I spent 1000 dollars, first mecha nic, the jkiffy lube, now me. Three times now shit!,,

#5 of 5 Quest/villager 90s engine coolant cont. by johnnathan

Apr 24, 2013 (12:33 am)

Make sure you do the coolant with the car up in front. Run around with a wire in cap, temporarily after all this. Don't over tighten the Belting or strip revese thread on belt mount adj . This is to the power steering pump and water pump-sucks! My car still having problems, I may have to replace the 02 sensor from the heat out out, oil and burring is bad for that. Good Luck Fans. Please close the bleader on top of motor as soon as you open it, or you will loose screw.

Messages Page 2 of 2

To POST a message, please Sign In.

Advertisement

Browse by Category

Browse by Vehicle
   View All Vehicles

Browse by Board
Browse by Topic
View All Topics

Edmunds Community

Advertisement