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2008 T&C stalling without reason

205 messages,  Last post on Sep 18, 2012 at 12:04 PM

You are in the Chrysler Town & Country/Dodge Grand Caravan Forum.

What is this discussion about? Chrysler Town and Country, Van

Messages Page 21 of 22

#194 of 205 2010 shutting off while driving. by hatemytandc

Sep 25, 2010 (6:47 pm)

I wish I would have found this site before I purchase my 2010. I drove the care off the lot with only 6 miles. I really didn’t know if I was ready to become a score mom at the age of 29, but my kids and I like to go out and have fun and would like to have space to bring other kids along, so for my 3 kids I become a score mom. I am not really handy with car nor do want to be stuck on the side of the road waiting for help so wanted to purchase a new car with a good warranty. I went to the dealership in Orlando Sand lake and john young. The sale was so nice took me to some use cars and try to sell me one. I told him that I didn’t want to have a user and have not clue what the last owner did to it. I told him I wanted a new car some that wont break down on me and if some was to happen to a new car it would be covered under warranty. I am really glad that I went new. ( I shouldn’t have purchase at all ) In Oct /2009. after about 1month of looking at cars I drove my van off the lot with about 6miles, and became a score mom.
 
I had the car only little over 1 week and had about 100 miles on the car and I started to hear the breaks squeal. I didn’t think that it was my car becuz I had a 2010 Town and Country from Chrysler = shyster) but the car next to me. The next stop it happen again but no car was next to me so I start to tap the breaks and no way it was me. My breaks were and still are squealing. I called the dealer and was like my breaker are squealing. THE DEALER SAID THAT THE BREAK ARE SUPPOSE TO SQUEAL GIVE IT A COUPLE OF DAYS TO BREAK THEM IN. three days later it was worst. THEN I WAS TOLD THAT THEY WILL SQUEAL IN THE RAIN. I don’t know anyone that will buy a car that the break are suppose to squeal. Come on you look at the car next to you like what the hell is wrong with them they need to get the breaks check. If the breaks make noise when they are good what do you suppose to do take the car to the dealer every month to get the break becuz the squeal this month not be the right squeal. I told them that I wanted to have someone look at the breaks. I take the car in and guess what the car with about 200 miles on it had RUSTY BREAKS. They change them out THE CAR MUST HAVE BEEN SITTING TOO LONG.. Really I got a 2010 in 2009 how long is too long. Come on really. That was the least of my problems. Next issue I had with the car was I would start the car and it would turn off I start it again and it would turn I let it sit for a min and turn it on again. Finally I was able to drive of in my new 2010 town and country. I went the dealer and they ask me if I had gas in that car. I don’t think that I would have came to the dealer if I was out of gas and the car wouldn’t start. IT MAYBE THE KEYS SO THEY PROGRAMMED MY KEYS. A day late the car shut off again and again. I take it back and they said the CAR NEEDED AN UPDATE. Now after the update not only does the car shut off after it starts up it shuts off while drive. First it started at about 2-3 mph then it was 10-15 mph now we are at 35-40 mps time after time I take this car back to the dealer stated that there are no codes in the system so they don’t see anything that they could do. The door will open and close like something is stuck in the door. I take in and it needs another UPDATE.. The lock on the driver side doors will not lock you have to press it about 6-10x for it will lock Oh and don’t forget the dealer tell you about the lemon law like it easy. After 3 repair attempts they will buy your car back. The lemon law is just another way to make consume to pay for big company mistake. Only about 10% of the people actual win when they fight the manufacture of the cars. I have even ask for a co pilot so a system can record everything that is happening while it is happening. They tell me it wont fit on the new 2010. Then they said that they will use on that cant leave the dealer something like a co-pilot but not really. Do you think they found any codes after keep my car for over 3days. No but as soon as I drove it home it shut of while driving at about 50mph. Why would anyone what to keep going to the dealer if nothing was wrong with the van. I have to work and kids and school. The sad part about this is that this has been going on since 1996 models base on some of the web posting. I have so much to say about this, but to make longer story short. DO NOT BUY A TOWN AND COUNTRY
THESE ARE THE ISSUES I AM HAVING WITH MY MINES. MY RATING FOR THIS CAR IS A NEG 10
Tire light
Door locks
Automatic doors
Breaks
Start up
Shutting off while driving

#195 of 205 Re: 2003 T&C stalling and running rough [ecurveman] by meduso99

Sep 27, 2010 (5:50 pm)

Replying to: ecurveman (Feb 18, 2009 8:03 am)
how do you do this without going to a dealer ?

#196 of 205 Re: Ticking Noise in a 3.8L 2007 DGC [xwesx] by concerned99

Oct 04, 2010 (1:56 pm)

Replying to: xwesx (Jan 05, 2010 12:32 pm)
We're having trouble with a loud ticking sound in the engine too. We put new plugs in and a few other tune up type things and now less than 2 weeks later it's noisy under the hood, sounds like a time bomb. Someone said it was a flat spot on a something (piston/valve??? I don't know what). Then reading this I thought maybe it was the S belt going bad? Is it the spark plugs? Can anyone help?

#197 of 205 Re: Ticking Noise in a 3.8L 2007 DGC [concerned99] by srs_49

Oct 05, 2010 (4:12 am)

Replying to: concerned99 (Oct 04, 2010 1:56 pm)
Loud ticking sound like it could be a valve lifter that went flat. This means that the oil, which the lifter needs to operate, is not getting to the lifter or is leaking out. Sometimes they cure themselves; other times they need to be replaced.
 
If it's due, try an oil and filter change with a good quality oil.

#198 of 205 Re: 2008 T&C stalling without reason [sararines29] by mnach

Nov 29, 2010 (11:46 am)

Replying to: sararines29 (Sep 22, 2010 1:54 pm)
I have the same problem and our local repair shop can't figure it out. He called the dealer who seems to know nothing about this problem. Have you had any luck? It's so dangerous and I don't want to drive the vehicle, but I don't have a choice.

#199 of 205 RE: CHRYSLER T&C /CARAVANS NOT STARTING by gotadodge

Dec 04, 2010 (10:13 pm)

Hello, I have been following these threads and just to give a little heads up, If you remove your cluster from the dash it bypasses the security system and your vans should start. Meaning you need to purchase a NEW OR USED cluster, There are other threads i have posted on other sites regarding this.(the soldering is letting go on the back side of the cluster which in turn throws the security system into high alert and shutting down the Vehicle). What seems to be happening is the short is getting hot and when it cools down if in the right spot it will start again. If not in the right position people are running around scratching their heads bald wondering WHY WONT THIS $^%&*# THING START.
         GOOD LUCK

#200 of 205 RE: CHRYSLER T&C /CARAVANS NOT STARTING [gotadodge] by matthew64

Feb 18, 2011 (11:10 am)

Replying to: gotadodge (Dec 04, 2010 10:13 pm)
Hello after reading all the post regarding this crazy problem,,i went out to the van and repaired it my self ,,saved a couple of grand easy,,and i bet the dealer wouldn't be-able to find the problem,,a very frustrating problem, going out somewhere and not being-able ,to start the van and go home ,,it would start then shut off after a second or 2,,then after 3 or 4 times starting it would shut down then nothing ,,you would have to go find something to do for and hour then come back,presto it starts,, its a simple repair and wont cost you a dime ,,all you need is a fillips screw driver a # 15 torx driver soldering iron and solder,,remove the dash only on the drivers side take out the instrument cluster dismantle it,,re solder the the large main plug in the center ,,( WAH_LAH) your done reinstall the cluster no more ck-engine light ,no more security system issues,,no more weird acting gauges and lights,, you tube has the step by step info on re-soldering the cluster main board,,its very easy,, but it also helps im a tv repair man,,GOOD-LUCK

#201 of 205 Re: 2008 T&C stalling without reason [sararines29] by hsumn

Jul 06, 2011 (1:40 pm)

Replying to: sararines29 (Sep 22, 2010 1:54 pm)
I had the same thing happen several times with my 2008 Town & Country Lmtd. Of course the light comes on, but when you restart - it wipes out the code. After numerous trips to the dealership with no luck, the light came on while driving & I took it straight to dealer and insisted that the ENGINE specialist look at the van. It was the EGR VALVE. They replaced the valve & gasket and did a 3 part induction cleaning. That was at the beginning of Feb 2011 and so far no more stalling.
 
But now the starter is going bad - or more likely the solenoid contacts.

#202 of 205 Re: 2001 town & country key will not turn [momstaxie] by lonestar6

Jan 10, 2012 (11:04 am)

Replying to: momstaxie (Jul 30, 2007 7:23 am)
I just joined Edmunds so don't know if you're still a member. My 2000 T&C is having the same problem. Pep Boys' master mechanic will replace ignition cylinder for around $160 but it won't be set to my original key. Were you towed to a dealer? My local dealer would give me zero info over the phone, insisting that he had to see the vehicle before talking $$ (maybe standard procedure for dealers, though). Having worked at a (non-Chrysler) dealership many years ago, I know how they are prone to overcharge but it would have the advantage of re-keying a new cylinder to my original key. Of course, I like your repair solution much better. Thanks for anything you can share about this.

#203 of 205 Re: 1998 Dodge Caravan Sport [happyjack3] by sms0905

Jan 28, 2012 (11:02 pm)

Replying to: happyjack3 (Aug 16, 2007 7:49 am)
i have had similar problems with my 1998 Chrysler T&C LXI. I found if I rearm/lock the car with the alarm bob wait for five minutes and than unarm/unlock the car will start and everthing is fine. Try it I know it worked for me it may work for you. Good luck.

Messages Page 21 of 22

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