Last post on Nov 23, 2010 at 9:55 AM
You are in the Classic Cars
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Chevrolet, Ford, Plymouth, Coupe, Convertible, Truck, Sedan, Wagon
#68 of 87 Re: Comparing Older Domestic Engines [hpmctorque]
by Mr_Shiftright HOST
Oct 25, 2010 (9:00 am)
Well that engine is decades ahead in development from the one we were talking about, so yeah, as time went on, the old flatheads got to spin a bit faster, especially as people learned how to get them to breathe better with special intakes and cams and multiple carbs.
#69 of 87 Re: Comparing Older Domestic Engines [oldcem]
Oct 26, 2010 (6:32 am)
Some people talk like the 216 engines were junk but they were really decent engines that would last a long time.
They didn't like high RPMS or to be hot rodded. At the slightest hint of a rod knock someone who knew what they were doing would need to pull the pan and adjust and shim the bearings.
Of course, all of the old guys who knew how to do this are long retired or dead by now.
#70 of 87 Re: Comparing Older Domestic Engines [isellhondas]
by Mr_Shiftright HOST
Oct 26, 2010 (7:16 am)
You just had to be reasonable about a 216, and avoid higher revs, heavy loads and long pulls up hills. These engines were made for 1930s roads, not 1970s roads.
#71 of 87 Re: Comparing Older Domestic Engines [Mr_Shiftright]
Oct 26, 2010 (7:32 am)
My first car was a 1952 Chevy. It needed a fuel pump and I was able to buy it for 35.00.
I remember in the glove box there was a receipt from 1962 from the local chevy Dealer. " Adjust and shim engine bearings...30.00!
As a youngster, I accidently drove it straight into the Watts Riots not knowing what was happening. A cop yelled at me to get the hell out of there and I did!
I remember driving down the Harbor Freeway at 75 MPH which the Chevy did with ease and no ill effects afterwards.
San Pedro never looked so good!
#72 of 87 Re: Comparing Older Domestic Engines [isellhondas]
Oct 26, 2010 (1:21 pm)
Our 2nd Chevy was a '53 Bel Air Sedan with 7,200 miles in April 1955 for $1500. It was a stick with the 235.5 engine. Thus, I think '52 was the last year for the 216.5.
The '53 was geared better for highway use & regretted selling it in Honolulu, however, the same car was worth $500 less in SF March '58. Those were the years, two married college grads with jobs and a couple of cars - no kids. How else can I piss you off?
#73 of 87 Re: Comparing Older Domestic Engines [euphonium]
Oct 26, 2010 (2:06 pm)
If it was a 1953 with a stick, it still used the babbett bearings. The ones with Powerglide had inserts and full pressure lubrication. By 1954 all of them had inserts. Of course those were much better engines but the 216's weren't as bad as some people would have you believe.
Funny, the stick 235's had mechanical lifters and the Powerglides had hydraulic until 1956 when they all had hydraulic lifters.
Any more Chevy trivia I can bore you with?
#74 of 87 Re: Comparing Older Domestic Engines [isellhondas]
by Mr_Shiftright HOST
Oct 26, 2010 (2:33 pm)
you could tell the class why replacing a clutch in those cars was a form of torture.
#75 of 87 Re: Comparing Older Domestic Engines [isellhondas]
Oct 27, 2010 (4:10 pm)
Re: our 53.....Stewart Warner made a tachometer that exactly replaced the clock in the dash. It was so tight, you'd think it was factory.
#76 of 87 Re: Comparing Older Domestic Engines [euphonium]
Oct 27, 2010 (5:57 pm)
Speaking of Stewart-Warner, the original owner of my fintail drilled a hole in the dash and installed a S-W ammeter. It looks pretty decent, period correct and doesn't clash too much.
#77 of 87 Re: Comparing Older Domestic Engines [Mr_Shiftright]
Oct 29, 2010 (10:49 am)
" you could tell the class why replacing a clutch in those cars was a form of torture"
Yes, I can.
Prior to 1955, Chevys didn't have an open driveshaft. They had a torque tube and replacing a clutch was a B***H!
I once helped a buddy do one on the ground, without a hoist.
And, inside that torque tube was a seal that prevented the transmission oil and the differential oil from combining.
If the seal went bad and the car was parked on a hill the oil from the transmission would flow through the tube into the differential and overfill it thus blowing the axle seals.
They made a "kit" that was referred to as an "Okie" kit where you would pound a bushing as I recall into the end of the tube to cure the problem.
The kit usually worked and it saved a lot of time and trouble.
I seem to recall that Buicks kept the torque tubes even longer than chevy did?