Last post on Dec 04, 2013 at 12:12 PM
You are in the Nissan Rogue
What is this discussion about?
Nissan Rogue, Safe Driving, Auto Repair, Transmission, SUV
#145 of 237 Re: 2008 Rogue with no problems [08rogueowner]
by Stever@Edmunds HOST
Nov 03, 2012 (5:42 am)
Hard to compare notes since my Nissan is an automatic, not a CVT.
And maybe it's better to tell you what states my '99 Quest has lived in. First year was in Anchorage, then a long road trip, then ten years in Boise (105 wasn't uncommon, but it was a dry heat ). The last two years in the UP of Michigan. Not warm.
But back to the thread, it's bad that most people posting in here have had issues. The question is what percent of owners does that represent. If it's more than 3 or 4%, then Nissan will be losing big time on warranty claims. No consolation, but they've lost money on you and may have lost some future sales from people reading your posts.
#146 of 237 Rogue 2008 transmission go to limp mode
Nov 03, 2012 (6:01 am)
There seems to be 2 separate issues here. One there is the TX whining noise and then ther is the issue with the TX going into limp mode for no apparent reasons and no codes are showing. I have the later issue.
After my 4th visit with multiple incidents since last spring, Nissan took some fluid out one time, then they said it was a bad crank shaft position sensor. None of these resolved the problem.
Finally this week, they agreed to replace the TX just under the wire since my 2008 Rogue has 198600km on it! I hope this will resolved the problem for good...
#147 of 237 Suggest me please
Nov 16, 2012 (7:56 am)
I'm in the market for an SUV and one of the SUVs we are looking at is Rogue. But after reading all these issues, I want to run as far as I can.
Before I do, does anyone know the new models are any different in terms of transmission? Have they been redesigned? Does any one know the reliability of 2012/13 models.
Thanks in advance
#148 of 237 Re: Suggest me please [rameshb]
Nov 16, 2012 (8:14 am)
I'm glad you took the time to ask the question. Nissan has not redesigned the transmission on these as of yet. They are using a different CVT design then they were using in the smaller cars. The problem with these transmissions is that they generate alot more heat and Nissan hasn't really figured out the specific failure (or at least they are not admitting to it)
In my struggles, prior to getting rid of our Rogue, I wasn't disappointed with the vehicle, but when it did have a problem, Nissan's representatives were not willing to address it. Nor were they willing to replace the transmission as they did before.
If you want to purchase one, just make sure you take into account that there is a standing warranty extension on the transmission due to the problems thay have had with them. The failure rate is not high enough for a complete recall. You will probably not get much support from Nissan as the vehicle reaches 100,000 miles.
Good Luck !
#149 of 237 Re: Suggest me please [rustywer]
Nov 16, 2012 (9:11 am)
Thank you so much for such a detailed answer.
Knowing the issue still exists in the vehicle, very likely we may consider other options.
#150 of 237 Re: Suggest me please [rustywer]
Nov 16, 2012 (5:20 pm)
It is my understanding that the warranty extension on the transmission does NOT apply to 2012 and on models.....
#152 of 237 Vibration when breaking from highway speed
Nov 24, 2012 (7:37 am)
I have a 2012 Rogue SV FWD with 20,500 miles. I have had the car about 10 months and just recently after a oil change and tire rotation I noticed that when breaking from high speeds (70+mph) on the highway the car vibrates. I do not experience this vibration when breaking at slower speeds. The dealer says that my rotors need to be re-surfaced. How long are rotors expected to last? I went years in my VW Passat before having to re-surfaced the rotors. Does this sound right? I thought perhaps my tires were not balanced properly. Any suggestions / comments would be greatly appreciated.
#153 of 237 Re: Vibration when breaking from highway speed [anointedhelp1]
Nov 24, 2012 (7:03 pm)
The first question that I would ask is where did you have the tire rotation and the oil service accomplished? (Dealer or Quick Oil Change Deal) I know it sounds like a mute point, but if the oil change guy, who is normally not the highest paid or most trained employee at most auto shops or dealerships, over-torqued the lug nuts on the wheels that can and will cause the condition you are feeling. Most consumers take advantage of the "CHEAP" oil change deals that are out there and go for these $14.99 or so specials. Since the front rotors are held in place by the torque of the lug nuts (They call these floating rotors) overtorqued lug nuts cause a mushrooming effect of the hat portion of the rotor, this can cause a slight offset in the camber (Angle) of the rotor face and allow the rotor to heat up when braking. Since the rotor face is is slightly offset or angled it heats unevenly and that will warp the rotors normally after a few weeks or so after the service.
Once you noticed the Pulsation, you went to the dealer. The dealer should have removed the wheels, and measured the latteral runout. Then identified the need to remachine/reface the rotors. A slight amount of runout can be corrected with refacing, but may return after time. I have seen this too many times. They may or may not recommend pad replacement also, depending on their warranty offerred for the service.
Proving the incorrect torque by the shop that rotated the tires is impossible at this point, as the tires have probably been removed and reinstalled by the brake check technician. Unless the dealer service person documented the what you told them completely, and then the technician made a note of what he found when he removed the tires with a hand tool, instead of the normal removal with an impact wrench. (Chances are this didn't happen).
Brake rotors can, and do develop runout if you drive in an area with alot of hills or decending grades. It would take some very heavy braking to occur daily to do this though.
Most shop guidlines, require that technicians hand torque or use torque limiting devices when reinstalling wheels and tires. This said, that takes extra time and if not enforced by management, can often be one of the first procedures not followed in the interest of saving time and getting the next vehicle into the shop.
The tire rotation is normally complimentary or at a very low cost and is necessary for proper tire wear. (Midas bundles a complete oil change with a tire rotation for $29.99 here in Ca.) With these oil change deals, most places loose money, but the benefit for the Auto Shop is that they get you in the door and then through a complimentary inspection, identify additional service recommendations and sell you that service, flush, or identified repair. Vehicles with less than 50,000 to 60,000 miles are not considered to be good profit candidates, but the shop wants you back for the future service.
Here is some advise I give:
If you are using an "Upsell" motivated service facility, then stop! Pay for a good reputable shop to change your oil and do the less glamorous services (LOF and Tire Rotation about $40 to $60) Then reward them with the major service intervals and normal repairs.
Insist on "HAND TORQUE" when installing wheels. (Make it a point when you drop your vehicle off and write it on the service order / request if it isn't documented)
Find a GOOD, REPUTABLE, HONEST shop and stay with them for everything, or solicit their recommendation for services they do not offer. (Use BBB, Yelp, Angie's List, or some other research tool when looking for a shop)
Always inspect the failed or replaced parts!
Ask Questions. There are no Dumb, Stupid, Silly questions when you hand someone your hard earned money for work you may or may not understand, or can see that it was accomplished.
Let the shop EARN YOUR BUSINESS!
Rusty (Auto Service Manager, San Diego, Ca.)