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ASD relay clicking -- dont trust diagnosis

3 messages,  Last post on Sep 06, 2010 at 9:56 AM

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#1 of 3 ASD relay clicking -- dont trust diagnosis by grinch00747

Aug 09, 2010 (6:19 pm)

I own a 2002 Chrysler T&C 3.8L V6 w/ around 90K miles. Two weeks ago I pulled it into the garage and turned it off. I heard a noise coming from my dash, sounded as if my CD player were trying to eject a cd. Powered back up and pressed eject, nothing to eject. When I turned it off and opened the door, not only did I hear a “whirling” sound coming from the dash, but there was also a rapid clicking coming from the fuse box by the battery. I pulled the cover off the box and determined the clicking sound was coming from an ASD relay. Went and purchased a new one. After a simple replace, I again got the clicking ASD relay as soon as I turned the ignition switch. Removed the ASD relay and began my internet search. Two days later I try to start it and it was completely dead. Couldn’t even jump it, just clicked. Took the battery to an auto store who tested it; tested fine but low charge - charged it. Rule out battery. It appears I am not the only sad sack who has experienced this problem.
 
A few days ago I called my local Dodge/Chrysler dealer and told them of my problem and was told I had a bad battery, that there wasn‘t enough amps. Fist of all, the ASD is clicking without a key even in the ignition, let alone turned to be powered up. I tell him the battery tests fine and share with him that I have seen a lot of on-line posts where people are suggesting to replace the PCM but they continue to have the same problems after replacment. The mechanic at the dealership told me it was likely not the PCM since the ASD relay is actually getting powered (or something along those lines).
 
So today I go out with a freshly charged battery and try to get it started so I can take it to the dealership. Dead! But it did click a lot louder. Towed to dealership. The dealership calls and tells me it needs a new PCM ($730 + $285 labor + taxes = well over $1000.00). I ask if he is sure that is the problem. He proceeds to tell me that they will not know if there are other problems until they fix the PCM and run the codes to see what else pops up bad. Is this unacceptable to anyone else but me? But I am at a severe disadvantage. Replacing a fuse is about as much as I can do in the automotive field and I am completely out of my league. I don’t even know the terminology (as evident, I’m sure) where I can speak with any sort of authority. But I also don’t feel like the dealership is even trying. It just seems sloppy and lazy to me. I tried to have a conversation with this young kid this morning and I may as well have been speaking Swahili. Maybe I’m wrong? Maybe the PCM is the problem? But a majority of the posts I read are where people replace their PCMs and they continue to have the problem. But they really have you, don’t they? After all, what am I going to do, fix it myself? Eat the $80 tow and the $95 inspection and have it towed back in my driveway to rot? I sure wish I were more educated/empowered to combat this awful feeling. This is not just a cathartic release… do any of you have advice as to what YOU would do (minus me going to automotive school) if you were me?
 
Many thanks one and all.

#2 of 3 Re: ASD relay clicking -- dont trust diagnosis [grinch00747] by dailyauto

Sep 02, 2010 (12:08 pm)

Replying to: grinch00747 (Aug 09, 2010 6:19 pm)
Sorry grinch but it seems your in the world of new automotive diagnostics. Unfortunately technology has made our lives "easier" and also much more expensive. I had a similiar issue with an ASD relay on a T&C minus the repeated clicking. It took me four hours to accurately diagnose why the relay would not ground to the computer which ended up being a faulty PCM which shorted the coil pack. I did send in his old PCM to a website who's name escapes me now to swap out the PCM and have it flashed (only $225, the dealership is a ripoff). Anyhow the problem is that four hours worth of diagnosis time at a shop would cost you $400 and most people aren't willing to pay that just to find out. Maybe I can help someone else diagnose it so here is the deal.
 
The ASD should have power with the key off at the switch side and power with the key on at the coil side. The ASD relay engages only when the computer sends a ground signal to the other side of the relay (the coil part). Basically your computer can't decide whether or not it wants to ground the relay out. There are many sensors that are part of this circuit that helps the computer decide and they all have a 5v referance signal. Most likely you have a faulty sensor with a capacitor that is fluctuating around the 5v signal causing your computer to switch back and forth. The best way to verify this is to backprobe the crankshaft position sensor (don't unplug it or any other sensor). If you get a flutuating reading unplug each sensor in the circuit (a chiltons manual wiring diagram will show you which, just look for what feed is connected to the crank sensor) and test the voltage at whatever pin they feed into (probly pin 17 of C1 or pin 31 of C2). If the voltage is 5v constant then plug each sensor in one at a time until you find which one causes the voltage fluctuation. If you can understand this then don't pay the dealer. If you can't then this is something everyone must get used to. A real technician who can diagnose newer cars has the equivelent experience and training of a doctor. 15 years for me and I have only been able to accurately diagnose for the last 5. Good luck with this endevour.

#3 of 3 96 town & country would not start by marco_antonio

Sep 06, 2010 (9:56 am)

i checked for spark n i dont have it, but the ASD relay its working
i chek the harness of the coil but i dont a have a positive pulse, the same thing happens on the distributor, but i can´t find the module does anyone has any idea where to find it.

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