Last post on Aug 29, 2012 at 5:33 PM
You are in the Buick Park Avenue
What is this discussion about?
Buick Park Avenue, Sedan
#1 of 9 1997 Park Avenue Stalls
Jul 20, 2010 (9:19 pm)
Engine either stalls or feels like it misses cause vehicle to jerk once. Seems to be worse if weather or car engine is hot. help
#2 of 9 Re: 1997 Park Avenue Stalls [ctimms2036]
Jul 21, 2010 (7:48 am)
Spark plugs and wires. That's the most likely.
When have those been replaced with quality wires and AC Delco plugs. I suggest using the correct replacement plugs and avoid some of the other brands or weird setup plugs. For wires, I personally use Belden; I get them a NAPA.
#3 of 9 Work allready done.
Jul 21, 2010 (2:03 pm)
This what they have done. replaced fuel pump, oxygen sensor, intake manifold.
I had sort of thought down those lines too. I think I will try that before paying them any money, this has gotten expensive. Thanks and anyother suggestions I'm open.
#4 of 9 Re: 1997 Park Avenue Stalls [ctimms2036]
Jul 21, 2010 (4:15 pm)
Could be an ignition coil. TAke off the wires and two screws through each coil and inspect top and bottom for cracks or corrosion. Lube with dielectric grease and replace.
Also could be crankshaft position sensor. They tend to fail when hot.
Jul 21, 2010 (4:55 pm)
#6 of 9 98' Dies while driving or Dies when put into Gear
Aug 29, 2012 (5:33 pm)
#7 of 9 98' Dies while driving or Dies when put into Gear
Aug 29, 2012 (1:22 pm)
I have 3.8L V6 1998 Buick Park Avenue (Non Ultra) and it has recently starting dying. At first it would die whenever I took my foot off the accelerator and just coasted with traffic. When I put my foot back on the accelerator it would just lose power and die. I would have to stop wherever I was at, put the car in park and restart it. It would restart each time. Now it is dying whenever I drive for more the 15 minutes or so, get out the car for a quick errand and jump back in. I put the car in Reverse or Drive and try to pull away and it just dies. It will do this over and over again. I have found that if I wait for about 5 minutes it will then go as normal. Unless I really gun the accelerator in a……say Wal-Mart parking lot to force the car to move it dies. So, putting the car in gear and letting the car role out of a parking stall, it dies each and every time. I have replaced the MAP sensor as well as the MAS sensor and still I’m having the same problem. What gives? Can someone with knowledge of a ‘98 Buick Park Ave 3.8L V6 PLEASE HELP.
#8 of 9 Re: 98' Dies while driving or Dies when put into Gear [gregb183]
Aug 29, 2012 (3:21 pm)
I will suggest some things to try.
1. Disconnect the electrical connection from the EGR valve on top of the engine at the back. You might tap on the heavy metal part a couple of times lightly to seat the pintle inside that blocks flow of exhaust gas, if it is sticking open. See what effect this has especially when the car is acting up it would be a good thing to try.
2. The CPS (crankshaft position sensor) sometimes cuts off the engine completely. USually they start back up but sometimes require a time period to pass so they cool some to get back into sensing distance. The two wires stick out from behind the edge of the crankshaft balancer at the bottom of the engine on the belt side. Try keeping cold water (ice water) with you and splash it with cold when the car acts up to see if helps.
If the engine quits completely for a period of time, the front spark plug wire can be removed and put close to metal on the engine while someone cranks and there will be no spark jump. The crankshaft sensor kills the ignition completely.
3. The most likely which I think someone had as a problem with another H-body car was the camshaft position sensor. This should set a code if you ahve the codes read at Autozone, Advanced Auto parts, etc., for one of their free readings. The sensor is higher on the engine and requires a magnet that's embedded in the end of the camshaft to pass the sensor. The little magnet pellet falls out of the gear on the end of the camshaft. I've read of owners putting a pellet back in through the hole for the sensor by gluing it in after clearing the oil from the area with cleaners. Otherwise the top of the engine needs to be removed to access the whole camshaft to replace the gear.
I believe I saved a link to an analysis method for this kind of problem with the cam/crank/shaft sensors. If I find my link, I'll post it for you.