Last post on Jun 14, 2010 at 6:21 PM
You are in the Hyundai Sonata
What is this discussion about?
Hyundai Sonata, Car Buying, Sedan
#2 of 9 Re: performance of a sonata over 100K [goldyfish]
Jun 07, 2010 (8:37 am)
I believe the comment "how does a Sonata perform after 100K" is too broad to answer accurately. There are just too many variables in all respects e.g. preventative maintainence, driver empathy with the car (washing, listening for odd noises, quick repair of early faults etc) , driving style, geographical terrain..on and on...that all have an influence on how well any car will run not only after 100K miles but long before that as well. But, that said, our son had a 2000 Elantra that he sold 190K miles in Dec 2007 and it drove off into the sunset running as well as when we bought it 56,000 miles in 2003. It needed, as I recall, two timing belt changes each at 60K intervals per Hyundai's schedule. It also needed a couple of sets of front rotors but the Hyundai brand replacements did not last long (warped easily) so I finally bought Bendix and that was that...fixed. Also, the rear brake cylinders needed replaced about 150-160K miles. Needed routine things, spark plugs changed once or twice, front brake pads, tires etc. The major problem was the design of the exhaust manifold where the catylitic converter was integral (not replaceable seperately). The exhaust manifold cracked..twice and replacement cost was over $1000.00 BUT Hyundai replaced them both times free of charge due to the emission control warranty. The 3rd was a redesigned part and we never had that problem again. In general I'd say based on our own experience plus that of a few co-workers who have high mileage Hyundai cars (and I believe what they say) that Hyundai is at least the equal of Honda and better than current Toyota's. Parts are parts they all are expensive for any brand depending on what you need. You must check for a rusted out sub-frame on this 2002 Sonata because some model years including 2002 were subject to rust problems if your car is in or came from the rust belt (the north-east) where salt is used extensively in the winter. Salt slop collected in boxed in or inacessible areas of the subframe and was not easily washed out therefore the metal rusted, badly. Have the car professionally checked on the underside for this problem and stay away from it if it is discovered that the sub-frame is rusted through in places. Hyundai is replacing these free of charge for owners in the rustbelt but it is better not to buy one with that problem in the first place. If you live in more temperate areas where winter isn't bad I'd still have that checked out because you never know where the car lived its life, unless you are buying it privately and can document where it lived for 8 years. Hope I supplied something helpful..good luck.
#3 of 9 getting it checked
Jun 07, 2010 (8:45 am)
iam buying a second hand through a private party. So before buying it I want to get it checked at nearest pep boys for the 50 point inspection would that be ok?will that tell me upfront about these problems or any
#4 of 9 Re: getting it checked [goldyfish]
Jun 07, 2010 (9:03 am)
I am not familiar with exactly what Pep-Boys 50 point inspection entails but I will tell you that if you live in the rust belt this subframe inspection is about the most important thing to check. It can be seriously dangerous. Where do you live in general terms (state)? This answer will determine if this problem is possible on your potential buy. Beyond that, I'd say that if performed competently the PepBoys inspection should be sufficient. Be aware that I have heard that this inspection at PepBoys can be self-serving..by that I mean they may find certain "problems" that they will offer to fix for you but there may not be any problem or a small one at most in the area they suggest has one. Better might be an inspection at the local Hyundai dealer even if you have to pay $50-or $60 for it. There is nobody better at knowing their own cars.
#5 of 9 thats a good suggestion
Jun 07, 2010 (9:13 am)
we are in CA. the car has been in CA as well
#6 of 9 Re: thats a good suggestion [goldyfish]
by Kirstie@Edmunds HOST
Jun 07, 2010 (9:22 am)
targettuning is right on - getting an inspection at a dealership and paying for it is the best thing you can do when buying a car of this vintage. The "freebie" or low-cost inspections offer more opportunities for them to find issues (that may or may not be critical) in an effort to get you to spend money.
Personally, I'd be wary of a 2002 Hyundai, but that's just me. I wasn't impressed with the quality of them until the 2006 model year. I'd happily buy one 2006+, but it'd have to be really cheap for me to consider an earlier year.
#7 of 9 Re: thats a good suggestion [kirstie_h]
Jun 07, 2010 (9:44 am)
fyi the 2002 Sonata was a fairly old design, first debuting in late 1998. It was designed prior to Hyundai's big push on quality, which began in 1999. IMO models designed after that, specifically the 2001+ Elantra (an Edmunds' Top Used Car choice) and the 2001+ Santa Fe were solid cars, quality-wise, although quality improved even more with the latest generation of vehicles.
#8 of 9 Purchasing 2000 Sonata
Jun 14, 2010 (2:22 pm)
I am purchasing a 2000 Sonata for around $400. Car looks to be in good condition. Slight hesitation in the take-off once or twice while test driving. Do you think this is a good deal. The car has about 140000 miles
#9 of 9 Re: Purchasing 2000 Sonata [needcar5]
Jun 14, 2010 (6:21 pm)
For $400 you couldn't complain if the car lasted only six months without the need for expensive repairs.
Minimal sales tax, no need for collision insurance (although you might want comprehensive to cover a broken windshield), minimal property tax if your state taxes the value of a car each year (like CT does) , vitually no depreciation.
Just have the car checked out by a mechanic of your choice. He should be able to tell you if the car is OK or needs work to make it OK for everyday use.