Last post on Jan 02, 2013 at 6:14 PM
You are in the Mitsubishi Outlander
What is this discussion about?
Mitsubishi Outlander, SUV
#8 of 23 It appears two of you Outlander owners...
Aug 14, 2010 (1:27 pm)
are having this same problem? Do I need to go back and read carefully your posts, or is that true? And both of your Outlanders have been "looked at" by your Mitsu dealer's service department by now, with unsatisfactory results? If so, that's too bad. I would read batman47's post above and follow his advice about trying to go there when a Mitsubishi representative come to one of their garages. That is supposed to be where they are earning their big bucks, solving Mitsubishi technical glitches like the one you guys are having here.
If it happens again, I guess I'll be checking with the BBB because while this model gets high marks for reliability, I think there is something wrong with THIS particular car.
Bingo! As a 2008 Mitsubishi Lancer GTS owner that is happy with his purchase, I am looking to see what happens with other Mitsubishi owners and what kind of purchase and ownership experience they are having. This is truly regrettable what is going on here, and I would want to think that Mitsubishi Corporate would want this problem to be solved to both your satisfaction and theirs. I am impressed by Mitsubishi's carbuilding prowess and I believe their engineering group is indeed impressive, overall.
Please get back and let us know how Mitsubishi solves (or does not seem to solve) this problem, and I do hope you are able to get this fixed ASAP.
#9 of 23 Re: 2006 outlander throttle / accelerator [kcole1]
Sep 13, 2010 (6:21 am)
Well, haven't posted since August the 14th. After replacing the throttle body assembly, it is "so far, so good". I've put 1500 miles on it. I'm keeping my fingers crossed because winter is coming to Minnesota very soon.
#10 of 23 Re: 2006 outlander throttle / accelerator [bigdogs5]
Sep 13, 2010 (1:59 pm)
OK....it happened again on Sep 3 while driving up an interstate on-ramp. I was so furious that I drove straight to the dealership - at 30 mph I might add- and pulled into the service bay. It was ~ 5:30 pm and the technicians were not there. But I did get the guy who checks you in to drive it. Unfortunately it corrected itself when I turned off the ignition. The check engine light was still on tho'. He advised to bring it back in the next day and I requested to speak to the manager. The manager basically told me that it would be hard to trade now that I had so many miles on the car (~65,000), that I should have traded earlier when we talked about during the previous 7 repairs. I asked for the Mitsubishi customer service number and he said that was basically all I could do. SO I called and they were very accomadating, got right back in touch, created a case file and a case manager was assigned - very nice lady. I told her that I feel the car is not sellable due to the recurring problems it has. After the district manager got involved, I took my car back in last Friday so that the dealership could "fix the problem". I assured them that it was always "fixed" but they wanted their tech support to work with the dealership to find the underlying problem. I think it's just a defective car.....but I did as I was told. Well, they seem to have found the problem! My battery shows a low charge so that is what is causing the issue!!! It needs to be replaced and that should fix everything. They replaced the throttle body after the first 7 repairs and since the issue didn't recur until 2 yrs later, they figure the battery is the problem. In fact they have this documented in a repair guide or something. It is beyond me that the EXACT same problem would be occur because of a faulty battery. I am going to get the battery replaced and wait for it to happen again. I have not called the BBB yet but that is next on my list. Please let me know if any of this makes sense. It just sounds really lame to me.
#11 of 23 Re: 2006 outlander throttle / accelerator [kcole1]
Sep 14, 2010 (4:38 am)
I had something similar with a Dodge Dakota. Car would occasionally stall, be hard starting, and have problems staying running without additional pressure on the pedal and I read about how a low battery can cause a lot of these faults despite the ability to crank the engine over (normally it gets to not being able to crank the engine before most people detect a failing battery, but these days with electronics low voltage problems can effect how the car runs long before the inability to crank shows up). In my case It could be temporarily fixed by unplugging the battery and the default mode while the computer was relearning things made the problem appear to go away until the computer had finished relearning (couple of days I think) and then it was back again. Others on the internet with the same problem zeroed in on the battery which indeed permanently fixed it.
Good luck and I hope it is the true cause.
#12 of 23 Re: 2006 outlander throttle / accelerator [kcole1]
Sep 14, 2010 (1:36 pm)
I've heard of cars having wierd electrical gremlins caused by a low battery so maybe that is the case. Keep us updated!
#13 of 23 Re: 2006 outlander throttle / accelerator [kcole1]
Sep 14, 2010 (1:56 pm)
Battery should be changed every 4-5 years. The battery of my SC300 seemed to work fine but the passenger window stop to be operative and the window switch seemed to cease to operate, so I thought that the switch control has gone. Because my battery was close to the 5-years I decided to buy a new one to replace the old one. To my surprise my daughter manipulated the passenger window switch while we just started to go somewhere and I noted that the passenger window started to be operative again. Equally the wireless door control seemed to operate better now. Before the change of battery this control was erratic. The cost of a good battery is between $70-$100.
#14 of 23 2006 Mitsubishi Outlander - Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor Problem
Sep 11, 2012 (4:45 pm)
I have had similar problems with my '06 Outlander as what I've been reading on this message board, and I think I have gotten my car fixed for real this time. I'm going to recap what happened to my car and hopefully this will help somebody else with an Outlander.
In July 2011, I was driving on the interstate and my car suddenly lost power and could only drive up to 45 mph, with me flooring it. I managed to drive it home and took it to a Goodyear the next day (closest place for me to go). The code came up for the accelerator pedal position sensor. I had the throttle replaced (this includes the sensor). The car was fine until August 2012. I was driving home from work, and suddenly my car lost power. I drove it to a mechanic in town. The next day they told me that, again, the code for the accelerator pedal position sensor came up. But, they said to take it to a Mitsubishi dealership to get checked and fixed. Since the dealership is far away and my car was maxing at ~30 mph, I chose to have it towed since that was the safer option. Once it got to the dealership, they tested the sensor, and said that there was nothing wrong with it. They ultimately found paint buildup on a wire in the car which was causing this fake code to come up on the diagnostics ... I've never had a paint job or body work done to my car, so the paint build-up must be a factory problem. This is what the dealership wrote on my report, "High resistance on pin 7 connector ZB115. Used multi-meter to check resistance of connector B115 to ECM connector B112. Load tested circuit in question. Ok. Found high resistance caused by insecure ground at ECM due to high paint build-up. Cleaned ground and re-tested. Ok."
Maybe other Outlanders have this underlying problem, because the posts I've read on here sound a lot like my situation. I only paid for the labor to get this fixed, but shouldn't have had to do that, since this appears to be factory paint. I'm not going to bother fighting Mitsubishi on the cost because I plan to trade my car in sometime in the near future (and probably not for another Mitsubishi). I don't know if paint build-up is common on wires for Mitsubishi or other brands, but this seems like a ridiculous problem, especially since it took 6 years of me having the car for something to happen and then an additional year for a mechanic to identify the underlying problem.
I hope this information helps someone ...
#15 of 23 Re: 2006 Mitsubishi Outlander - Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor Problem [k_olson_08]
Sep 12, 2012 (6:45 am)
Good Luck to you - my advice would be to be contact Mitsubishi the very second it happens again. I went through the whole complaint / arbitration process with Mitsubishi and they refused to acknowledge that there was anything wrong with my car because it was in working order at the time I filed the complaint. They ended up replacing the main computer in my car and I never had the problem again. Needless to say I will never again purchase a Mitsubishi and will pass the info along to my friends.
I traded it this summer thankfully and am very happy with my Hyundai Santa Fe!
#16 of 23 Re: 2006 Mitsubishi Outlander - Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor Problem [kcole1]
Sep 14, 2012 (5:21 pm)
Thanks for the information. The service guy at the dealership told me that if the mechanic/tech hadn't found the paint build-up on that wire that they would have started taking my dashboard apart (to pinpoint where the electrical issue was) and it would have cost thousands of dollars in labor! My brother has a Mitsubishi Lancer and has had some major problems with his car, too. I have been thinking of trading in for a Toyota. It's really too bad, because I do love the car and would love to get another Outlander, but this problem is just too major for me to overlook.
#17 of 23 Re: 2006 Mitsubishi Outlander - Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor Problem [kcole1]
Sep 17, 2012 (7:10 am)
It is regrettable to read about your description of your Outlander problem. However, without any intention to diminish the occasional problems (electrical & mechanical) that the Outlander may have from time to time, I may say, that if you have come across other car manufacturer forums (see for example the Honda Pilot or the Subaru Forester) Mazda, Honda, Toyota, Suzuki, Subaru, Chevrolet, etc, etc; the number of complaints and re-calls are 2 to 3 times more than the Outlander.
Equally, respectable car review magazine put the Outlander reliability above average. Perhaps I am a bit biased about the Outlander (I owned 2-cars) for a maximum of 2-years each. The first I took to Alaska to a place called “Dead Horse” with more than 800 miles (return) on gravel (mud, ice, snow) without any electrical or mechanical problems. Furthermore, I took the second one from the US to Argentina (Ushuaia) on 40% of the road without tarmac (called “ripio”) without any problems at all. Those are the facts.
The Outlander, in my opinion, excels because of its mechanical prowess. The inside finish is poor, the paint is sub-standard, and it scratches easily. As an example, I may say my Lexus SC 300 its interior looks much better than my Outlander in spite of the fact that my Lexus is 16-years old.
There is no guarantee that changing to another make other than Mitsubishi will ensure that you do not have problems. You may ask yourself why there is a small garage in every corner in the US. There are a lot because there are millions of cars (regardless of make) that need something done. Still having a garage is a good business in the US.
Buying a new car is like choosing a wife. There is no guarantee that you will not divorce more than one time (presently more than the 40%)