Last post on Feb 06, 2013 at 10:56 PM
You are in the Chevrolet Colorado and GMC Canyon
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Chevrolet Colorado, GMC Canyon, Electrical, Truck
#367 of 379 oh the colorado abs fault indicator
Nov 29, 2012 (9:26 am)
I am having the same problem with a buddy's truck, 2005 colorado Z71 ls 3.5l. I changed his rotors and now we are having all of the problems listed in this discussion. Has anyone found a solution?
#368 of 379 fix
Nov 29, 2012 (6:21 pm)
We all have all the same problems due to GM design flaws. I have discovered by trial and error (including your errors), that if your brakes stop functioning 'normally', which was never that good when they do work, I simply pull off the road turn off the motor sit for about 25 seconds and then restart. This will most times reset the ABS and the brakes function again without the horrible sounds, fading and the blinking "ABS" light. I say this means it is not physical worn out parts, but simply (like so many other issues) an electrical design blunder.
GM has paid back their Bailout Loan with all of their 'corner cutting' schemes, at our expense. EXAMPLE: All of the high rear mount Brake Light Assembly leaks are because they made the assembly INCORRECTLY: Foam gasket (what a joke). only two screws (one on each end) on an extra long light unit with insufficient pressure to seal water out. All of these require the consumer to get parts and labor from the dealer, who splits the profit with GM. GM stands for "Greed Mongers". As described by The Free Dictionary. com:
An excessive desire to acquire or possess more than what one needs or deserves, especially with respect to material wealth
mon·ger (mnggr, mng-)
1. A dealer in a specific commodity. Often used in combination: an ironmonger.
2. A person promoting something undesirable or discreditable. Often used in combination: a scandalmonger; a warmonger.
#369 of 379 ABS fault/ head failure
Dec 03, 2012 (10:48 am)
I too have just had to get a new hub to fix this. While in I also needed to get a NYS inspection which the vehicle failed, On-board computer was not ready to be tested. Service department told me to drive the truck 100 miles or so to clear it, 10 miles later I get a check engine light....now I need to get a head replaced. The dealership has been super nice which leads me to believe somethings up...then again if somebody just paid me $1,000 and was on the hook for another $2,200 I'd be super nice too.
#370 of 379 Re: ABS fault/ head failure [mgilly1]
Dec 03, 2012 (11:37 am)
There is a 7 year 100,00 mile coverage on that head. GM had a problem with a lot of them due to soft valve seats and they extended warranty. Ask the dealer, better yet tell the dealer, because some of them act like thy never heard about it. Be carefull about dealer add ons if you do get warranty coverage. Some dealerships have been padding the bill with non-warranty items and charging the owner.
If the dealership acts stupid on this, call the GM 1-800 number in your owner's manual or post again here and I'll go find the letter that GM sent out.
#371 of 379 Re: ABS fault/ head failure [n9cv]
Dec 04, 2012 (7:02 am)
Thanks for the info. unfortunately I have had the truck for 7 and a half years only 75,000 miles though. I will discuss this with the dealership. Thanks again - Gilly
Dec 08, 2012 (7:40 am)
I replaced the ABS sensors in front hubs of my 2004 colorado. Is there a right or left or doesn't it matter.
#373 of 379 Can my ABS fault be reset?
Dec 30, 2012 (1:17 pm)
I just changed front brakes on my 2006 Colorado 4WD. Now the ABS fault light flashes. I have checked the connection. Does the ABS sensor need to be reset?
#374 of 379 ABS and other engine faults
Feb 05, 2013 (9:28 pm)
I had several problems with my 06 Chevy Colorado. Recently, i am showing abs faults, communication problems, MAF sensor and a couple of others. I also have my heater blower only working on high. I changed the resistor twice and still the same. i learned to deal with it but enough is enough, i also had a sunroof install when i purchased my car and that is now recalled. I am looking for assistance. i would like help from Chevy with the lemon I was sold by one of their dealerships. I dont want to play an arm and a leg to repair items that both the dealership and GM corp. both know is faulty and refuse to recall so the consumer pay out of pocket for the repairs. Boycotts, protests and bad publicity is never good. Who wants to lose a paying customer, especially during this economy. Motor companies are already making cut backs. NO more Pontiac or Saturn, what brand is next!!!!
#375 of 379 Re: ABS and other engine faults [jv4needs]
Feb 06, 2013 (1:05 pm)
Have you already contacted Customer Assistance? If not and you would like for us to check into this further, please email us at socialmediagm.com with more information (including your name and contact information, the last 8 digits of your VIN and mileage, and a summary of the situation).
Sarah, GM Customer Service
#376 of 379 Re: ABS and other engine faults [jv4needs]
Feb 06, 2013 (2:14 pm)
The blower motor circuit is the most common posting on the Colorado forums. A new thread gets started there at least once a week on this problem. One of the threads was reported to be 60 pages long. Another was 38 pages the last time I looked at it a few years ago. We got so tired of typing the same responses to the problem over and over that I put together a summary response here:
I see you replaced the resistor twice. Did you also replace the cable that includes the connector for the resistor? Was the pins on either the resistor or the connector burned brown? GM has had so many failures of this assembly that they also offer a repair cable with a new connector. These parts are also available in the after market on sites like on Rock Auto. The cable is a simple replacement.
If the connector and resistor pins are OK, and the resistor is not burned but is indeed open, then there is a little fuse like component as part of the resistor assembly. If that is what it blowing then you are drawing too much current through the resistor assembly. This draw is caused by a bad bearing in the fan motor or a restriction dragging down the fan. If replacing the resistor is all you need to get it going again with no burned pins, then I suggest in the future that you do not use position #3. That position draws the most current through the resistor assembly. Position #4 bypasses the resistor assembly completely so 1, 2, and 4 are safe to use. Also removing and lubing the fan motor bearings or replacing the fan motor might be in order.
Here is a link to the wiring diagram for the blower motor:
Oh yes, we also have a GM customer service person monitoring over on the Colorado forum. He is as useless as the one here. It may be the same person using a different name. If not, it probably is the same department.
I can not help you on the MAF or Communications problems.
ABS / Traction Control problems are the second most common failure. This almost always is the front wheel sensor or sensors. You can usually fix those by simply tapping on the back of them with a plastic hammer to re-seat them. If that does not do it, then replacement is in order. Again after market parts are much cheaper and available for this high failure item. Check Rock Auto or your favorite auto parts store for the sensors without having to buy the whole hub like GM dealers usually sell.