Last post on Jun 09, 2013 at 5:50 AM
You are in the Chevrolet Colorado and GMC Canyon
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Chevrolet Colorado, GMC Canyon, Electrical, Truck
#241 of 380 Re: Another Chevrolet Colorado ABS Brake Failure by martinpaul [brewerguy]
Dec 08, 2011 (2:46 pm)
I would rather not state what my relationship with GM is.
I will state that all 6 of our 4 and 6 wheel road vehicles that we currently own are GM vehicles. We (my wife and I) have also owned a few Toyotas and Fords, but not many over the years. I too have owed two S-10 pickups and now a 2005 Colorado. As to the head light fastener problem, you will not notice it until you go to remove or adjust them. I just gave that as an example of poor fastener quality where they saved 5 or 10 cents per vehicle. The evap solenoid usually shows up as gasoline spitting back up you when you fill the tank rather than an error code. It will show up as an error code is it sticks open rather than closed.
By far the biggest complaints have been electrical, followed by ABS / Traction Control (optional feature) issues. These ABS issues almost always turn out to be sensor related which we can call electro-mechanical problems.
In the first years GM only offered the whole hub with sensor as a replacement part. Now you can get just the senor or the hub as separate parts. These parts are also available on the aftermarket. The issue is these are seldom defective. They are usually only dirty or out of adjustment but the GM maintenance procedures tells the tech to replace the item(s) rather than repair them.
It is hard to gather exact "mean time to failure" or "failures per 1,000 vehicle" statistics on these parts when GM just blanket replaces them whether they are really defective or not. Also because of the high expense of parts and labor, owners take them to non-GM repair facilities after the warranty expires and use non-GM sourced parts for repairs.
Good luck with your Colorado. I like mine over all. I use my extended cab Colorado as a truck for hauling, towing, and as a personal vehicle on a daily basis. I also live in the midwest and I try to stay off of freshly salted roads in the winter time. I seldom my other cars.
#242 of 380 Re: Another Chevrolet Colorado ABS Brake Failure by martinpaul [n9cv]
Dec 12, 2011 (8:31 am)
Your loyalty to GM products is much appreciated, and I am pleased to hear that you are overall enjoying your current Colorado. If, in the future, any concerns arise and you should need customer assistance, please feel free to contact us via the email address available in my profile with more information.
GM Customer Service
#243 of 380 blower motor still not working.
Jan 10, 2012 (4:59 pm)
okay, if someone can help me out here that would be great, because clearly GM has no idea and does not have any plans to resolve this issue. for starters the blower motor stopped working. first indication to me was check the fuse. it was fine. even replaced it to make sure, still nothing. Then considered maybe the blower motor went bad so for haha's I removed it and hooked it up to a battery and it turned on. So I reinstalled it. then I replaced the resistor and still nothing. But while in this process one of the prongs on the connector to the resistor looked dark brown. so went right back to GM and spent another 55.00 on the connector. Then cut out the old and spliced in the new, still nothing. Now my next guess was maybe the switch on the head unit went bad, but before i drop 200.00 to GM for a new one let me make sure it works. I tested the connection and the switch isn't getting any power. So now at this point i am checking the orange wire and the brown wire for power. power was very weak but have good power at the fuse box. Went back to GM and here's the best answer I have ever received. ** I don't know what to tell you.**. They explained to me that everything that I had already taken care of is exactly what they would have done themselves. And also I should consider bringing the truck in for diagnosis and maybe they can find a problem. and for what? to pay some yoyo to do exactly as i did and tell me i need to replace something on just a hunch? I know exactly what the problem is. These trucks have horrible electrical issue's and they intend on doing absolutely nothing about it. Just to spare everyone I wont even begin to explain all of the issues I have had with this truck. But also have had nothing but issues with the ABS sensor's as well. light came on, sure enough I replaced the Hub's on both sides. guess what. didn't solve the problem. so new hubs and sensors did nothing. i am constantly doing routine check ups on the truck. from oil changes ever 3 thousand miles to differential fluid. Just the worst GM I've ever owned. reguardless if someone could maybe point me in the right direction as far as the fan motor goes that would be great. In the mean time I will not be purchasing another GM and are very disappointed in the customer service and how unprofessional both GM dealers I went to were. Thank you For reading my rant.
#244 of 380 Re: blower motor still not working. [trans_am_76]
Jan 10, 2012 (7:31 pm)
I also had problems with my blower but it would only work on the highest setting and I brought it in and they replaced the heater blower resistor and connector and told me that the wiring had actually melted. Every once in a while I have ABS problems but when I shut the vehicle off and turn it back on it clears and good for another 3+ months... I figure the next time it occurs and ABS light ACTUALLY comes on I will drive it to the nearest dealer and then see if they can diagnose it before I shut the vehicle off. A new problem arose last week....two times now when I go from Park to Reverse reverse does not engage until I return to Park. I also think that there are major electrical problems with this vehicle from the amount of bulbs I have replaced to the wiring (I can't remember what they were for) that travel thru my rear door and they told me it was from opening the door too much!
It sounds like you have replaced everything that I had done and I know I haven't been much help to solving anything but just want you to know that you are not alone in wondering what the heck is going on and feel like we are not getting the best answers for our problems. Do the dealers really care about the satisfaction we have or just the sale of the vehicle? I personally have never spoken to our dealer after the purchase. I would never send anyone in the market there unlike the service we were provided with my husbands Jeep. Good Luck and keep us posted.
PS My husband has 2 words to share with both of us... SELL IT! I couldn't do that to someone!
#245 of 380 Re: blower motor still not working. [lynnie63]
Jan 10, 2012 (7:38 pm)
trans-am check out a post from n9cv he mentioned a ground for the blower
#246 of 380 Re: blower motor still not working. [lynnie63]
Jan 10, 2012 (8:04 pm)
thanks buddy, ground's were solid. but clearly there is still an issue.
#247 of 380 Re: blower motor still not working. [lynnie63]
Jan 10, 2012 (8:14 pm)
Oh btw, this is a fun list you might enjoy.
LIST OF REPAIRS WITHIN 2 YEAR:
new transfer case.
2 wheel hubs and sensors. ** hubs still make grinding noise periodically**
remote starter screwed up power locks and eventually wouldnt start anymore and oddly enough it screwed up the key fob so the doors wouldnt lock, or they would get stuck in lock position.
constantly replacing parking lap bulbs and turn signal bulbs.
factory radio burned out and was forced to use after market radio.
leaf springs squeak depending on size of bump.
2 front axle seals. ** still leaking **
and seat tracks on passenger side stick some days.
speaker on passenger side does not work. * new speaker and new wire harness*
and constantly have to clean the throttle body otherwise it runs like garbage. and last, and im sure just for now, there is some sort of evap leak that has something to do with a valve? i was so mad i didnt bother remembering the code. truck is just a lemon and will never buy one again!
#248 of 380 Re: blower motor still not working. [trans_am_76]
Jan 10, 2012 (8:35 pm)
There have been many posts about this issue. There is a ground wire on the the inner fender that does not always make a good conection and it needs to be cleaned and retightened. It sounds like this is your problem especially since you say you have weak power after the fuse box. Have you ever seen trailer lights that were very dim due to a poor ground-- same issue. Search the sight for this poor ground situation, there have been posts with pictures explaining it. Good luck, my truck was a nightmare until I got rid of it. GM is no help and dealers just want to rape and plunder
#249 of 380 Re: blower motor still not working. [trans_am_76]
Jan 11, 2012 (3:42 am)
What you are describing here is probably the most common electrical failure on the Colorado. I have fixed many of these and I wrote a long procedure on how to diagnose this problem.
Go to the following site and read the posting on how to find your problem. The two most common failures in the blower motor circuit are the ground connection on the right inner fender and burning the resistor connection which is mounted next to the blower motor. Both of these are fairly easy to repair. Other things that occasionally fail are the bower relay and the motor itself.
#250 of 380 Blower Motor & ABS Faults...
Jan 24, 2012 (8:54 am)
The blower motor issue and the ABS faults are two very common issues on the Colorado. From what you mentioned you've done so far, you may wish to check that the ground block is not the source of the problem. You mentioned that it's solid, however it is commonly tight with no visible corrosion, but once disassembled, cleaned with a wire brush, and reassembled, it works. I've this it happen twice. The tell here is that when the blower motor starts malfunctioning, you'll find it works sometimes and not others before it finally dies altogether. A burnt connector or bad resistor will generally die at once and never work again.
As for the ABS, the front sensors commonly malfunction for two reasons - either they fill up with debris or the ring under the magnet separates from the hub and touches the sensor magnet. Debris can be cleaned out once everything is taken apart, however if the ring separates from the hub, you have to either devise a way to reattach it with some sort of adhesive or buy a new hub assembly. Several years ago, you couldn't get sensors without buying the entire hub assembly, but recently, they have been selling sensors separately. It's quite a bit of labor to take the spindle apart to get at this, so it may be worth replacing both hubs for $250 regardless of the cause of the problem depending on how much time you have. If you have both hubs, you know you'll have the parts to reassemble it and that it will work when you put it back together. If not, you might have to wait for the appropriate parts to reassemble or be forced to reassemble without the correct parts only to have to do the job again after the parts arrive.
If you have a scan tool that is capable of connecting to the ABS system, you can actually watch the LF, RF and rear wheel speeds while driving. If you're getting a fault, you'll likely see one or more sensors reporting MUCH slower wheel speeds than it should under certain operating conditions like turns. This morning, I was looking at mine after getting an ABS fault, and the LF sensor indicated 35MPH and the RH sensor indicated 35MPH and dropped sporadically to 5-9MPH for seconds at a time. THis is because the sensor magnet counts the speed at which cogs on the ring pass under the magnet and when the gap gets filled with crud or the ring actually comes in contact with the magnet after separation from the hub, a ABS coupouter counts less cogs then it should in a given amount of time and sets a code if this goes on for too long and illuminates the fault lamp. Timken, the hub manufacturer, also sells an ABS Repair Kit containing a cable, screw, and grease, however I'm not exactly sure what it does.
Michael D. Bailey
2005 Chevrolet Colorado Z71 LS