Last post on Aug 08, 2013 at 1:12 PM
You are in the Chevrolet Suburban & Tahoe
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Chevrolet Suburban, Electrical, Heating / Cooling, SUV
#1 of 25 Suburban brake light stays on & p/w, speedometer, A/C won't work
Nov 01, 2009 (8:46 pm)
I'm hoping you guys can help. I have a 1991 Chevy Suburban. I was driving it a week ago, when all of a sudden the brake light came on (and stayed on), the A/C shut off, the power windows wouldn't work, and the speedometer went all the way to zero (and stayed there).
Things stayed this way for a few days. Then, one day when I went to start it, the brake light was NOT on, and everything that had stopped working was working again. Later that day, when I went to start it, the light was back on and the A/C, windows and speedometer had stopped working.
It seems to go back and forth. Sometimes it'll work, and sometimes it won't.
Any ideas at all what we should check?
Thanks in advance!
#2 of 25 Re: Suburban brake light stays on & p/w, speedometer, A/C won't work [julieyet]
Nov 02, 2009 (6:26 am)
When coming across flakey symptoms like you have, I always start by making sure that the basic power is clean and stable. Have the battery and alternator load tested at a parts supply house, this is usually a free service. Pay particular attention to the battery connectors, looking that they are tight, and free of corrosion on the connector and up into the wire.
You should also check the ground wire connection, to make sure you don't have a loose (or high resistance ground).
If those check out, then I would follow the power to the main fuse box, and check your voltage on the main buss, to make sure you aren't dropping any voltage from where the battery voltage is sitting at. You'll need a digital voltmeter, they can be picked up reasonably priced at a radio shack or auto parts stores.
#3 of 25 brake light and bat stays on & p/w, speedometer, A/C won't work [julieyet]
Nov 03, 2009 (11:18 am)
hi i m having the same problem on my 2004 tahoe all of a sudden the abs light came on and the battery light then none of the instruments clusters where working the A/C is blowing hot air the windows are not working and the door locks are not working and it wouldn't respond to the key fob. the dome light stoped working. i checked all the relays they all seem in a working condition i don't know what to do next. if anybody have any suggestions i would highly aprecciate it thx
#4 of 25 Also Electrical Issues
Nov 11, 2009 (5:55 pm)
My 2000 Suburban began with the Low Coolant light being on continuously. 1700.00 later the Check Engine Oil Level light came on for 2 weeks. That sensor is fine and the oil level is fine. Now the lights are both switching on, first the low coolant then the oil level light, one after another, after another, after another. Mechanic is saying it is electrical issue. Anyone have any ideas before I start screaming and have to be committed?
#5 of 25 2004 Suburban electrical problems
Dec 07, 2009 (9:59 am)
I have a 2004 Suburban that out of the blue this weekend started giving me extremely loud feedback through the speakers... even when the car was off, radio fuse removed, radio/stereo off, etc. It was bizarre and is so loud inside that you can't stand to be in the car for any reason. In the past, we've had the a/c get stuck on extremely hot heat and also the auto locks flip back and forth while driving down the road but no one seems to be able to fix it. Now on those brief moments when it's not so loud from the feedback you can hear a sizzling in the dash board. Waiting on a mechanic to tell me if there are electrical problems for sure. Anyone experience anything similar?
#7 of 25 Replaced Dead Battery - Electrical Gone Wild
Dec 09, 2009 (11:49 am)
This is my first post. Before posting I read through a couple other discussions regarding electrical, engines shutting down etc. I need to fly to my son's college and see if I can get his 2000 Suburban running again. I need as much info as possible before I leave so I have described to my best ability the sequence of events. My main focus so far will be to check out the new battery and the original alternator and battery cables. Then clean the throttle plate and see what happens. Let me know what else I can do. Here is what happened.
2000 Chevy Suburban 2500 - has worked great for 9 years - about 140,000 miles
1. vehicle stopped running while out driving
2. 72 month Napa battery checked "dead" after 14 months - got another warranty battery
3. My son installed the battery with me on the phone.
4. He said that the keyless did not work - while installing the terminals he said that the terminal was sparking excessively, the lights were flashing and the interior was making clicking noises - probably the door locks. I told him to turn the lights off as they were set for automatic - this helped and he finished.
5. Vehicle started right up but kept dying if he did not give it gas. I told him to keep it runing and after a bit put it in drive and it kept running. He drove it up to school and parked it. He had to lock manually since the keyless was not working.
6. Next day he opened the door with the key and the alarm went off and he could not stop it. It finally stopped and he drove to baseball practice and the alarm went off while driving.
7. That night he went to the bank and lost the headlights, windows would not work, interior and dash lights went out and the truck died. It would not start. He left it and walked back to school. I have not heard back.
8. With all the electrical items going outand then the truck stalling I was thinking alternator but would the computer not send a message in advance if the alternator was bad?
9. What do you guys think? Any solid experience?
10. The truck is in Whittier California in the event that someone reads this from Whittier.
11. If I can't get some definite good info then I will need to fly there and get it fixed since my son does not have a lot of car experience to trouble shoot. If I tell him to take it to a shop that could end up costing a small fortune.
#8 of 25 Re: Replaced Dead Battery - Electrical Gone Wild [silvercat]
Dec 09, 2009 (12:34 pm)
Could have fried the alternator control circuitry, or any of the computers with the sparking. On my vehicles I usually borrow one of the battery jumper devices (from the auto parts store) and plug it into the OBD jack, which maintains stable voltage to the computer, and then swap out the battery.
I'd get to an autoparts store and check that the battery and alternator are load testing and put out what they need. If the problem still exists, get it to a dealership who have the tools to check out the computers. May potentially need to replace a computer, or may just need to reload it's software.
#9 of 25 Re: Replaced Dead Battery - Electrical Gone Wild [silvercat]
Dec 28, 2009 (4:28 pm)
I figured out the problems. So I am posting the solution in case anyone else has the problem. By the way, I bought a basic Scanner/Reader but I did not get any codes. There were basically (2) problems.
1. The electrical went dead after replacing the battery. The alternator was shot. I recharged the battery and installed the new alternator ($208 with tax) and that solved the electrical problem.
2. The engine kept shutting off when it was started and would only keep running if I sat with my foot on the gas for awhile. Once it stayed running I turned it off and it kept shutting off again. I checked the air filter which was dirty but not real dirty to cause the engine to stall out. I tried starting without the air filter and it still kept stalling. I then "reset" that air filter use gauge that has the red, green and yellow markings. I pushed the button and it reset back to "green" like I had just installed a new filter. That solved the problem. I put the old filter back in and it still ran just fine.
I drove home with the car (about 400 miles) with no problems.
#10 of 25 factory suburban stereo display out
Jan 06, 2010 (8:19 am)
have an 89 gmc suburban. the display is out on it. can turn stereo on and you get static. with antenna attached it sounds like it tries to tune but when hit the seek or manually tune a humming static is all that can be heard. any ideas as to how to resolve this problem or would it be easier to simply replace stereo with an aftermarket cd player?