Last post on Oct 07, 2012 at 3:46 PM
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Chevrolet Blazer, GMC, SUV
#1 of 116 98 Blazer brake line
Sep 20, 2009 (7:22 am)
Just a quick question i am new to this group but was wondering if i can replace my own brake line to the rear and front brakes? I know i need new lines they're leaking and was hoping i could replace them without going into a shop? I have almost all the tools needed, anybody else replaced their brake lines? any help would be appreciated!
#2 of 116 new preformed brake lines
Sep 20, 2009 (11:21 am)
Having a autro repair shop bend straight tubing to fit your 1998 Blazer will be labor intensive and at $70 to $90 per hour, it would be serious money. The cost of the parts is nothing compared to the labor cost which is usually the case at auto repair shops. Except some of the electronic components that only take a few minutes to replace.
It would be best to purchase preformed brake lines ready made from GM. LMC Truck offers a preformed stainless steel brake line kit for 1982-1994 S10 Blazer 4WD for $229. It consists of 10 preformed lines with fittings attached. There may a few of the lines in their kit you can use for a 1998 Blazer 4WD and toss the lines that you cannot use. The best option is to go to a Chevrolet dealership that has a parts counterman who will cooperate with you and let you examine his computer screen so you can pick out the lines you need to replace and only order those parts along with any associated, bolts, clips, brackets, etc. Never let a parts counteman pick out the parts you need because they will be the wrong 50% of the time.
I noticed that most of the 1998 Blazer 4WD and 2WD OEM preformed brake lines have not been discontinued by GM and they will fit your calipers, chassis, master cylinder and the ABS modulator without any major bending. LMC Truck does not offer brake line kits for 1995 and later S10 Blazer because the parts are still avalable from GM at the dealership parts departments. When they are discontinued by GM, the aftermarket suppliers will start making them if there is a large enough demand to make it profitable. I have noticed in my dealings with doctors, plumbers, electricians, home repairmen, and auto repair mechanics that they usually turn a minor job into a major and more expensive job every chance they get.
#3 of 116 Re: 98 Blazer brake line [cbrux71]
Jan 30, 2010 (5:01 pm)
Hello did you end up replacing the brake lines yourself? i have a 96 blazer and need to replace the front to rear line but have no idea where to begin if you could help me out that would be appreciated
#5 of 116 2002 Chevy Blazer Rear Brakes
Mar 13, 2009 (3:35 pm)
I drive a 2002 S-10 2 door rear wheel drive Blazer. About 5 days ago my brakes started squeaking, seems as if only the rear driver side is making the noise. However, sometimes if I let off the brake and let the car idle forward there will be an on and off squeaking noise that seems to correspond with the rolling of the tires. I was wondering if this is common with brake pads problems, or if anyone had heard of this before.
Thanks for your help.
#6 of 116 Re: 2002 Chevy Blazer Rear Brakes [dbate]
Mar 13, 2009 (8:35 pm)
First off, you need to pull the rear wheels and check the pads for wear. I am betting that it is time for a rear brake job.
Second, when you do that brake job, you should replace the rear calipers. Don't faint, they are pretty cheap and easy to find. Unlike the front calipers, the rear are made of aluminum. When you push the piston back in to accomodate the new, thicker pads, the pistons have a nasty habit of binding in the cylinder bore and sticking, causing major heat build up. And big time fuel economy loss!
Now, the little squeak/chirp you are hearing is due to a rotor being slightly out of true. Also no biggie. Pull the rotors when you do the brake job and have them "trued" at the parts house. This involves putting them on a brake lathe and taking off a very small amount of metal, just enough to get the two sides in perfect parallel with each other.
With regular hand tools, the total time for this job is about 1-2 hours. You will need some help when it comes time to bleed the air bubbles from the rear brakes after changing the calipers.
You can try to get by without changing the calipers, but if you have over 70K miles I would bet money it won't work.
BTW, Wagner calipers with pads run $82.99 each at O'Reilly's. If you get the caliper by itself, rebuilts are ~ $40 exchange. But good pads are going to run you about $50.
#7 of 116 2000 Blazer intermittent brake failure
May 27, 2009 (12:13 pm)
My wife drives a 2000 Blazer w/4WD and less than 100,000 miles. We picked up the vehicle after a NYS inspection. I drove it home, and upon reversing it into the driveway, I stepped on the brakes and had none! I rolled into a tree! I checked the brake fluid (full) and drove it up and down the street and had it happen one more time. I had the car towed back to the shop. They inspected it, test drove it, and said they couldn't find anything wrong. HELP!
#8 of 116 Blazer brakes
May 27, 2009 (2:14 pm)
I thought GM solved the brake problem by 1994 but I suppose they did not. That was a problem with early ABS brakes. My 1991 S10 Blazer 4x4 had the same problem but it was a soft pedal and it went to the floor. The problem appeared to be a by-passing master cylinder. They had recall on the 1993 -2000 S10 Blazers with ABS brakes and replaced the electronic selector switch. That was NOT the problem. A congressional hearling was held and GM wiggled out of the ABS problem by telling the congressmen "customers who purchased their GM vehicles with ABS brakes were not accoustomed to how the brakes operate". That is total nonsense.
The Kelsey-Hays ABS (EBC4) modulator is the culprit. I tried to purchase a rebuilt modulator for my 1991 S10 Blazer 4x4 but the only way I could get a rebuilt one is to send mine to a rebuilder and get it rebuilt for about $700. The modulator must be kept clean of any debris or dirty fluid. A tiny speck of dirt or a piece of rubber seal can cause the ABS modulater valves to by-pass and the brakes get spongy and sink to the floor. Many master cylinders have been replaced thinking that was the problem
I solved my braking problem by replacing every component of the entire braking system (except the ABS modulator) which was unnessessary. The main problem was old dirty fluid. The brake fluid in my 1991 S10 Blazer brake systen was the original fluid. I bled the sytem with fresh DOT 3 brake fluid by foot bleeding and it took six hours. A pressure bleeder attached to the master cylinder will work a lot better than foot bleeding. There is a special procedure you must follow and it5 is still difficult and time consuming to bleed ABS brakes including the ABS modulator. If they don't have a pressure bleeder that fits the GM mastercykinder, some auto repair shops merely give up on the job after a couiple of hours and never get all the air out of the system.
1. Bleed the brakes and be patient because it takes time to bleed ABS brakes. .
2. If that fails, replace the ABS modulator and bleed the brakes again. A rebuilt ABS modulators are available at local parts stores for a 2000 Blazer.
#9 of 116 2000 Blazer 4WD pedal goes to floor after replaceing everything
Jan 05, 2010 (1:12 pm)
I have a 2000 Chevy Blazer 4WD and took it to the shop to replace rotors and pads on the rear. While driving it home, the rear drivers side wheel started to smoke bad! Had them tow it back. At that point they replaced the calipers and replaced the lines as well. Went to pick it up and now the pedal is going to the floor even after I watched them bleed the lines. They seem to be at a loss. So am I. Of course this is not my expertise. Cam someone shed some light on my problem?
Would be greatly appreciated! THX
#10 of 116 Re: 2000 Blazer 4WD pedal goes to floor after replaceing everything [unicorn333]
Jan 05, 2010 (1:42 pm)
Well, I can tell you now that the rear calipers have to be replaced *almost* everytime the rear brakes are replaced. As far as the pedal going to the floor, they need to bleed the brakes again. It sounds like they may have gotten air into the master cylinder while bleeding the calipers. It takes a good bit of fluid to fill the new lines and calipers, and if you aren't watching carefully you can let the fluid level drop too far in the master cylinder and suck air into the system.
Nothing too magical about bleeding the system, just takes time to be sure and get all the air out.