Last post on Feb 26, 2013 at 6:56 AM
You are in the Chevrolet Suburban & Tahoe
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Chevrolet Suburban, Chevrolet Tahoe, Electrical, SUV
#250 of 252 Re: BATTERY DRAIN IN 2007 TAHOE [kitty05]
Sep 22, 2012 (4:12 pm)
My personal experience with 2004 Suburban... battery going dead.
1st battery lasted about 6 years. 2nd battery (Bosch brand from Pep Boys Auto Store) lasted about 1-1/2 yrs. 3rd battery (Bosch brand from Pep Boys) went dead about 3 days. (I have a battery charger at my house where I was recharging it... which would last about 3 day max) Finally took to Chevy dealer to diagnose. ($90) They couldn't find the problem, said they were sorry but all seems to be working fine. They charged the battery overnight and sent me on my merry way. Went to a local auto repair shop, they kept the vehicle overnight, called me the next morning, said I had a defective battery. They replaced the Bosch brand with an AC DELCO. Problem SOLVED !!!!!! It's been 2 years now an no more dead batteries!
Final analysis: For some reason the local Pep Boys Auto Store sold me not 1, but 2 bad defective batteries. I'm not sure, but perhaps that store is being supplied with batteries from a questionable source, probably at higher discount rates for more profit margin!! I will never buy a battery from that store ever again. Because, maybe it's not only the Bosch brands, but others as well !! In this day and age, I don't trust anyone anymore, even if a product is brand new with a shiny new label...... (might be manufactured overseas somewhere !! You never know !!
#252 of 252 dead battery issues fixed with new battery
Feb 26, 2013 (6:56 am)
I bought a used 07 Suburban LTZ with 113k miles. Within the first 30 days, it would not start for my wife and needed a jump. I figured she left something on, jumped it and off she went. when it happened 3 weeks later, I took it to Les Schwab to have the battery and charging system tested since it had one of their batteries in it that didn't look that old. All tested good and down the road it went. about 3 weeks later and again, no start needing jump. This is getting old. Took it to a local battery/alt shop and tested all good again. At this point I went to the web and found how common this issue seems to be. I have no idea what all BCM flashes or anything the previous 2 owners had done. The local stealer wanted $100 to hook it up and test, then another $100 for an overnight test if the first test showed nothing. I decided to do some testing on my own.
checked battery VDC was at 12.35. removed negative terminal and placed DMM inline on amp setting between neg. wire and battery terminal. meter showed about 4 Amps!! However after about 30 sec or so, it dropped to 1.5A then down to about 30 ma, which is acceptable. But, when you touch the car like open the door for example it spikes back to 4A for a min. or so then slowly drops back to 30 ma withing about 2 min. Even with the dome lights off, it draws 4A every time you do anything. So from this it seemed there was no parasitic draw and all the modules were going to sleep correctly. I tried to open the motorized lift gate but my meter only goes to 10A and it spiked the meter at 16A and would not even try to open the gate which means it pulls quite a bit of current. So, I hooked the battery back up and walked away. 2 weeks later another jump start.
Time to play some more...VDC still showing 12.35 with vehicle off. while running its 13.9 so alt is charging. Still not showing any drain per previous test performed again. The vehicle has a 10 min timer on the headlamps, and most times it has gone dead, the wife has mentioned that she did sit at the park for 10 min with radio on, or kids got in and out a few times. So, battery at 12.65V, headlights left on and went inside for 15 min. came back and the lights were off. battery now showing 11.6V and it would not turn over. A good battery should not go dead in 10 min of headlamps. Ran to sears and replaced the 650CCA les Schwab battery that had been tested good by 3 different shops at this point with an 850 Die Hard Platinum. Went home and slapped it in. VDC now reading 12.65V, turned on headlights and went in for a beer. came out 15 min later, headlights off, VDC reading 12.65V and it cranked over no problem. I did not start it, just cranked over quickly to see. again turned on lights and went for beer #2. 15 min later, reading 12.65VDC and again cranked no problem. one more test of 10 min of lights and beer #3. So after 30 min of head lights the battery had dropped 0.0V and it would still turn over no problem. For my 4th attempt I really stuck it to it. I turned on the headlights, opened all doors and left dome lights on, plugged in the IPOD to the power port and played music through the car, and opened and closed the lift gate 15 times. waited for the 10 min timer to hit and shut down the lights. measured battery at 12.64VDC and fired up the rig no problem. Case closed.
Very frustrating problem and even though the battery tested good 3 times by 3 different places, it was the culprit. This is a very power hungry vehicle and since the new battery in October 2012, we have not had a single issue. I came back now to post this because of how may people I saw on the forums with the same problem, and never really found anyone that actually posted a real fix in the end. I'm sure that some people do have a drain for whatever reason, but if you can us a DMM and check for that and you don't have one, it's probably the battery. I saw plenty of people that had replaced the battery but moslty with the same brand. I know everyone has their likes and dis-likes of certain brands and that's fine. Seeing this thing draw 4 Amps every time you touch it is a huge draw. I personally would highly recommend higher CCA battery like the 850 I put in and I personally really like Die Hard and have never had an issue with one.