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Sedans Toyota Camry 96 Camry, the power window
8 messages, Last post on Aug 16, 2009 at 1:25 PM
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I have a 96 Camry, the power window on passenger side will not work with the door switches (both sides). I replaced both switches and still does not work. I connected window motor directly to battery and windows works. What can be causing this? I have current from the driver window switch and current from the passenger window switch. Is it maybe not enough current? Thanks
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Replying to: firetruck (Aug 16, 2009 9:53 am) You'll need a voltmeter to measure the voltage to see where it drops. I suspect it's in the driver side door, that's the one that gets opened and closed the most. In a 14 year old car, that is a lot of flexing back and forth.
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Replying to: kiawah (Aug 16, 2009 10:03 am)
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Replying to: firetruck (Aug 16, 2009 10:18 am) There are three wires going to the drivers side door switch. - One of those wires comes from the power main relay, which is what supplies voltage to the switch. This should always be positive 13volts-ish. This is pin-5 of the switch. - The other two wires are connected back to the drivers side master switch, and they effectively provide the path back to ground for the motor to work (when operated from the passenger side switch). This is pin-2 and pin-3 of the switch. If the lock/normal switch is in the normal position, and neither the drivers or passenger switch is depressed in either the up or down position, there should be no voltage on those two wires. They are at frame ground. If the lock/normal switch is in the lock position, then the voltage would 'float' up to probably 12 volts or so, because there is a light diode and resistor in the circuit connected to the 13 volts also, but the diode will drop about .7 volts across it. You should ignore all this stuff though.....just put the switch in normal position and they will be zero volts. The window motor is connected to pin-1 and pin-4 of the switch. So in summary for correct operation (all voltages measured on the passenger side switch): - pin 5 is always +13volts - when operating the passenger window from the passenger side switch and switched UP, pin 1 for the wiper motor will go to +13volts (since it is internally connecting to pin 5). Pin 4 is the ground for the motor, which is internally connected the switch to pin 3, which should be at ground if the drivers side switch is in the 'normal' position. - when operating the passenger window from the passenger side switch and switched DOWN, then pin 4 goes to +13 volts (as it is internally connecting to pin 5). Pin 1 is connected in the switch to pin 2, which should be at ground. - when operating the passenger window by the drivers side switch, when drivers switch is UP, pin 2 of the passenger switch should be +13 volts, and also pin 1 at +13volts. Pin 4 is connected to pin 3, which is connected to ground. - when operating the passenger window by the driver side switch DOWN, then pin 3 of the passenger switch will be at +13 volts, as well as pin 4. Pin 1, and pin 2 will be at ground. |
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Replying to: kiawah (Aug 16, 2009 11:36 am)
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Replying to: firetruck (Aug 16, 2009 12:02 pm) So is it a little test light that you are using to check voltages? You putting one probe lead on the metal car frame, and the other probe checking for enough voltage to turn on the light? |
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Replying to: firetruck (Aug 16, 2009 12:02 pm) THANKS
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Replying to: firetruck (Aug 16, 2009 12:42 pm) Lets see how far we get, but you may have to buy a small cheap volt/ohmmeter to trouble shoot this. You can get them for usually about 10-15 bucks at a radio shack or some auto parts chains. You need it to measure both voltage (volt meter) and resistance (ohmmeter). Can be either digital or analog. But tell me what you find with your light. |
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