Last post on Nov 27, 2013 at 7:57 PM
You are in the Dodge Durango
What is this discussion about?
Dodge Durango, SUV
#419 of 428 Re: Salvage Value [drrighteous]
Oct 08, 2013 (6:31 am)
The truck does have 140K miles on it, so the rods could have weakened over the years, but still have doubts that just the starter could put that much additional stress on them. Regardless, I may just go the full route to keep the block intact. Can the connecting rods be replaced with the engine in the car, simply by lowering the pan?
#420 of 428 Re: Salvage Value [privatepilot83]
Oct 08, 2013 (6:38 am)
You would have to extract the pistons from the top after removing the heads. I do not think there is enough room to remove the heads while it is still in the car.
BUT, removing the engine, repairing it and re-installing it is cheaper than removing, replacing, installing.
Street price on a running used engine is usually $1500-3000.
#421 of 428 Re: Salvage Value [drrighteous]
Oct 08, 2013 (9:49 am)
No need to remove the pistons through the cylinder tops if all you are removing are the Rods. Connecting Rods can be removed from the crank and from the pistons at the wrist pins. The other issue is, if removal of the heads are required, you'll need a full gasket kit, new timing chains & grears, along with other assorted gaskets and parts. It might be easier (labor costs) to just replace the short block, which may be too much for the value of the truck.
#422 of 428 Re: Salvage Value [privatepilot83]
Oct 08, 2013 (10:52 am)
From what I have seen it is impossible to remove the rod/piston without removing the crank first.
The lower end is pretty narrow, the crank fits into the journals with little clearance to spare.
To remove the crank you have to unbolt it from the flex plate and you cannot get to that unless you remove the transmission.
The piston will have to come out the top if you are to attempt this in vehicle.
#423 of 428 Followup on the Hemi that wouldn't turn over.
Oct 16, 2013 (4:08 am)
Just an update, I was able to remove the remaining 4 plugs and when I turned the motor over with a wrench, water sprayed from the rear two cylinders on the right bank, so deffinitly hydrolock. I visually inspected the intake and found the two center bolts on the right side (in pockets where water collected) had their tops rusted completely off, allowing the water to come in along their shanks and possibly along the edge between the manifold and the head. I applied gasket seal to all three areas generously and reassembled everything with new parts. She runs great again. BTW, I also took silicone to the wiper tray to prevent water from coming on the manifold in the future. I don't believe the starter has sufficient power to put any undo stress on the connecting rods, so will not be bothering with the bottom end. Thanks for all your help and suggestions.
#424 of 428 Re: Followup on the Hemi that wouldn't turn over. [privatepilot83]
Oct 21, 2013 (4:03 am)
I'm glad you got it going!
#425 of 428 Re: Here's another one [kamper1]
Nov 10, 2013 (1:56 pm)
I had an AAA Extended service contract after they tried for a couple of weeks to get out of it they paid for the replacement motor from Powertrain Products a rebuilder that addresses all known problems and gives an optional 4 year nofault warranty. The AAA weasels are almost as bad as MOPAR since there was less than a month on the contract when the engine went
#426 of 428 Promar Engines Nightmare
Nov 11, 2013 (11:32 am)
We'll my nightmare with my Durango now continues with Promar Engines. After just 4 months in the truck the engine failed! Promar's warranty is not worth the paper it's printed on. The first words out of them when I called is it's not under warranty.
My engine was running badly right from Day 1. I took it into several mechanics including my local Dodge dealership several times. Just 4 months after the install I have a massive antifreeze loss with no leaks from the system. My mechanic found a blown head gasket! Promar Engines warranty was a complete joke. Any excuse at all not to cover repairs for their inferior workmanship. My local machine shop looked at the head gasket and said they are using inferior parts!
BS Reason #1 I was I didn't return the core in time. Complete garbage since they knew I'm in Canada and I had to drive the block over the border to ship as they wouldn't ship the return from Canada. I was in constant contact with them and they knew exactly then the block would ship. Not once did they say that I was late with shipping the block and warranty would not be covered.
BS Reason #2 was that the block overheated. Complete garbage again since it was a head gasket that failed due to their crappy workmanship and parts. Without any pics of the heat tabs they installed he said they were melted. Even if they were melted it was because of loss of coolant from the blown head gasket.
I have been in touch with another Durango owner from this message board that has also had problems with a ticking lifter from Promar. These guys are complete scammers. Warranty is non-existent.
Email me if you want more details about these crooks.
Nov 22, 2013 (9:45 am)
I read through a lot of these posts, and there is one key factor causing almost all of these engine failures: valve springs. Daimler sourced out a lot of items overseas from China to get super cheap sensors, cheap weak plastic cowls and inferior valve springs, which affected mostly 03-04 Ram trucks and 04 Durangos (and some 2005s built in 2004 as they used up the engines with the problematic springs).
Look at it this way: the spring breaks thus not pushing up the valve. The valve slams into the piston head a few hundred or thousand times not letting it go all the way up, sometimes twisting the piston just a little with each contact. After a few hundred or thousand times, it twists or breaks the piston rod which then slams into the side of the block a few dozen times until it breaks through.
Those of us that have had these Durangos for a while and are enthusiasts are familiar with this problem, and recommend taking the still running Hemis (03-04 Rams and 04-05 Durangos) to the shop and replace the stock springs AND RETAINERS with some quality springs/retainers (like from COMP cam). Order some online and have a local shop install them (NOT A DEALERSHIP) since many times the parts that the shops/dealerships get are OEM factory or cheap overseas parts, and prone to failure just like the original parts were. Quality brands like COMPcam do not have these weaknesses as they are designed for heavier use, tracks, racecars, drag strips, and so on.
Nov 27, 2013 (7:57 pm)
Well I joined the club today. my Durango made it 3 houses down the street then " Boom, Bang, clunk"" I now have a hole bigger than a softball in the side of the block 3rd cylinder back on the right. guess there is no need in crawling to Chrysler for help after reading the posts on here. I am amazed at how thin the block 5 inches above the oil pan. Anybody got a good block ?? hate to get rid of truck because it's still in great shape but I think here in Kentucky, its going to be quite pricey to find a short block.
Glad I changed my plans for travelling for thanksgiving.