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Cash for Clunkers - Does it Work for You?

2647 messages, Last post on Oct 01, 2009 at 6:33 PM
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I Traded My Clunker and Bought a....?
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Replying to: british_rover (Jul 10, 2009 7:53 pm) Wow, you still have that old beast? From what I've heard, those things actually are pretty fuel-efficient, if not the most sophisticated in other respects. Lemko had an '88 Park Ave that could get 29-30 mpg on the highway, I think. Didn't you mention that you've been able to crack 40 with your Bonneville, if you nurse it just right? Those early Japanese V-6 cars tended to not be very fuel efficient, in general. I think it's because they tended to be more powerful, premium, driver's-type vehicles, with fairly high horsepower and agressive gearing. The 1985 Maxima, for example, is only rated at 15/20 with the automatic, although it's 17/23 with the stick (17/22 if you bought it in Cali). IIRC, the original Camry V-6 was a small 2.5L unit, so it was probably more of a revver as well, and coupled with aggressive gearing. I don't think Japanese V-6es really started getting economical until the later 1990's, when they reached larger displacements, and were better-suited to loafing along like an old pushrod...although they were ready to rev up when you required it.
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My '94 minivan's battery died 2 months ago, and then C4C came up, and now that old junker is worth $4500! I jumped it yesterday, and rev'd it for a few minutes, but then it kept dying when I took my foot off the gas. I'd hate to have to pour money in it to cash it in. It is registered, insured, but out of inspection (PA). Do I need to be able to drive it to the dealer, and have them be able to drive it around the lot 'til the scrapper picks it up?
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Replying to: spazvt (Jul 12, 2009 2:59 pm) I'm with you on this all the way. I would go ahead and make the deal without your due on the scrap. Then file a complaint with the NHTSA when they make the final rules available. I would hope they make that portion clear in the final draft. A vehicle with a decent body is worth a lot more in parts than a rusted out hulk with a good engine.
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Replying to: guntherhops (Jul 12, 2009 3:26 pm) I guess if it doesn't start the next day it's not your problem. |
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Replying to: gagrice (Jul 12, 2009 4:09 pm)
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Replying to: isellhondas (Jul 12, 2009 4:30 pm) PS And give Edmund's posters something to debate. |
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Replying to: andre1969 (Jul 12, 2009 3:15 pm) I had managed to get it up to 40 mpg on a couple of occasions with the right weather conditions and road conditions. I normally averaged 30-35 on the highway and mid 20s around town. My Bonne had mods though. Made a front undertray/bellypan had a custom cold air intake and was also full of synthetic fluids all the way around. The tires had a a super high tread rating too so they were fairly low roll resistance and I kept them at 41 PSI too. I had suspension mods too but I doubt they helped the mileage any. They just kept it from handling like a boat in a turn. |
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Replying to: volvomax (Jul 06, 2009 3:13 pm) I keep saying the same thing to people !!!! Here is why I say that. If they could have afford it they would have done it when Gas Prices were $4.00 per gallon. GP |
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My sister is looking for a new car, and would be happy to use this. But, her relic (1995 Maxima, probably up to about 180K now, and needing brakes and suspension, no AC anymoe I don't think), likely rated too high in MPG to qualify. Now, her situation? THis is my nephews car. He is going to inherit her current car, and she will be buying the new one, but both are now in her name. SO dumping this for $3,500 on a dealer would have been a fantastic windfall, since she ain't getting close to that on the street.
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Replying to: stickguy (Jul 13, 2009 7:40 am) |
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