Last post on Dec 14, 2009 at 1:08 PM
You are in the Chevrolet Cobalt
What is this discussion about?
Chevrolet Cobalt, Engine, Coupe, Sedan
#8 of 27 Re: re Waiting on Results [pa356228]
May 01, 2009 (7:22 am)
Be sure to use could quality gas instead of the cheap stuff.
May 01, 2009 (4:42 pm)
Good point, I run Shell V-Power 93 or Kwik Trip 91 for you Midwesterners with no ethanol and I will consistently get about 2 MPG better than ethanol lased regular.
I am currently running 150 miles a day. Doing my motor good.
#10 of 27 Something occurs a problem now.
May 16, 2009 (8:11 pm)
Just got back from vacation 2 days from Pittsburgh, PA, the engine hesitation have gone away, but now something else occured when I came back. I think something is wrong with the transmission. Anyways, no matter what speed I go, when I need to slow down to make a stop, of course the rpms will go down. But around 10-5mph
the rpms goes up another 100 and then goes down to normal. Then the light bulbs dimmers for a few seconds. There is no leaks, and in the vehicle menual, it says to change transmission fluid and filter every 50,000 miles. My car now has 54,944, probably it is time.
Before I do get it change, any ideas on what else could be causing it for I can find alternatives without having to spend alot of money. Any feedbacks is helpful? sorry about asking to much questions?
#11 of 27 Problems fixed
May 19, 2009 (11:57 am)
Thanks for all your help, and sure enough more problems will occur soon or later. However, I do have just one question? Could be a dumb question, but need to know. Actually two questions, 1. How can I check the transmission fluid? ever since I bought my car, could never find the dipstick for transmission fluid. and 2. Does cobalts have a fuel filter? if so, can you please tell me where it is located for I can change it.
Any feedbacks are helpful, and once again thank you for your help.
#12 of 27 Re: Problems fixed [pa356228]
May 20, 2009 (6:04 pm)
1. Transmission doesn't have a dipstick. There is a plug on top of the transmission. You would be better off letting a dealership check it.
2. The fuel filter is under the car between the fuel tank and back seat. If you look under the car between the two rear wheels, there is a metal beam connecting the rear suspension. The fuel filter is above the beam.
#13 of 27 New Problem Occur
Jun 09, 2009 (10:00 pm)
When I were finish washing my car on Monday, and were using a towel to dry off my car, I've notice the driver's side headlight had mositure inside the len cover. Never had that problem when washing any of my vehicles before. Anyways, I checked for cracks on the len, gaps around the len and couldn't find anything that could cause it.
The headlight and turn signal bulb still works fine. Should I be concern about it? What do you think? Just for the record, my car were sitting for about an hour or two after I drove it to somewhere, and it was 75 degrees outside that day. Also, the passenger side don't have that problem, yet. Any advice?
#14 of 27 It's been awhile...
Jul 09, 2009 (11:23 pm)
I did found the solution about the moist in the headlight lamp. Which still occurs now and then but, there is a another minor problem which could lead to major. Here it goes, everytime when I need the defoggers while driving, my car starts hesitating when slowing down at a traffic light on red.
Well, in other words, when slowing down to 5 mph my rpms starts frustrating between 700 up to 1300 rpms at 3 mph. When my defoggers (defrosters) are on but, when I turn off the defoggers (defrosters) it returns to normal readings. I know it probably doesn't make any sense to you either but, any advices will be hopeful.
Next 2-3 weeks I will buy a book for repairs, do you think Advance Auto Parts or Auto Zone will have one?
#15 of 27 Re: It's been awhile... [pa356228]
Jul 10, 2009 (1:14 pm)
I assume by defoggers you mean your defroster mode of the HVAC controls. When you select the "DEfrost" setting, your AC compressor automatically kicks in. When that happens, the PCM tells the engine to increase the idle speed because of the increased load of the compressor. Your engine cannot hold that new idle speed and the speed starts fluctuating. The problem could be: rapid cycling of the AC compressor caused by insufficient R134a charge or a dirty throttle body causing the bypass air around the throttle plate to give an erroneous reading to the PCM. Start by looking at the throttle plate and throttle body and clean if necessary. Does your AC work OK? If not, look at getting the system diagnosed and recharged.
#16 of 27 AC works fine...
Jul 13, 2009 (12:00 am)
I had the AC fixed 2 years ago or alittle lesser. I only used the AC twice this year and the first time this year, my car ran normal with it on without the fluctuating. Actually, the first time was when I where driving on the interstate but, for the second time I used the AC, that's when the fluctuating started. (About 4 months ago.)
Do you think I should buy a new PCM? About the throttle plate and body, I know this is a stupid question to ask but, Can you tell me where the throttle plate and throttle body is located? Wished I were a mechanic. However, I do fix some minor repairs. Definitely, next paycheck I will buy a auto repair book.
Also, one more thing. What's the best place to go to buy a auto repair book?
Sorry about asking too much questions.
#17 of 27 Re: AC works fine... [pa356228]
Jul 13, 2009 (6:47 am)
No, don't buy a new PCM. The throttle body and plate are located at the intake manifold. Follow the big black plastic tube from the air filter box to the engine. You need to remove this tube to get at the plate. Do yourself a favor and buy a Haynes manual at any auto parts store. You need to know what you're doing or you can seriously damage your engine if you drop something into the throttle body. I would suggest seeking the help of someone who does know what they're doing so you can learn by watching. Otherwise, take the car to any reliable shop. These cars and engines are everywhere and are easy to work on and diagnose.