Last post on Dec 14, 2009 at 1:08 PM
You are in the Chevrolet Cobalt
What is this discussion about?
Chevrolet Cobalt, Engine, Coupe, Sedan
Jul 14, 2009 (1:30 am)
I will take my car in to the shop next Friday, also for an oil change. I was going to attempt taking off the air filter and housing to check the throttle body but, like you said "need to know what you're doing or you can seriously damage your engine if you drop something into the throttle body" I didn't want to risk it.
Overall, everything else runs good, some minor repairs but nothing major yet. Although, my 06 Cobalt LS has about 59,801 miles. Had 105 miles since I got my car almost brand new. In Sept. 2006 I fell asleep at the wheel and done about $4,000 in damage to the front end of the car. still concerns me, what else could go wrong.
Are you a mechanic? if so, maybe you can teach me a thing or two. Thanks again for your help and hopefully the shop can fix the problem without it being too expensive.
#19 of 27 Re: Thanks... [pa356228]
Jul 14, 2009 (8:20 am)
"Are you a mechanic?"
No, just an experienced (40+ years) DIY'er. I learned on points and condenser ignitions, carburetors, and no computers. Very different today. Easier in some respects but much more difficult to diagnose when problems do arise. Unless you have a factory scan tool it's best to bite the bullet and take it to a competent mechanic. You'll pay less in the long run than just throwing replacement parts at the engine until you find the problem.
#20 of 27 Any other advices...
Jul 28, 2009 (1:31 am)
Well, I took my car to the shop but, they said they couldn't find anything wrong. Nothing wrong with the senors, even the check engine light doesn't come on. Once in awhile it does when the gas cap is loose. The throttle body is clean, filters are good, guess I shouldn't worry about then. Until, it does gets alot worst. Still doesn't seem right. Any suggestions about the last recently message I've posted or Ideas? Thanks.
#21 of 27 It's been awhile, Hi everyone
Aug 20, 2009 (8:33 am)
Tomorrow morning (08/21/2009) I will bring my car in the shop for an Oil Change.
Also, getting new filters, and was thinking of getting the O-Ring (something like that) replaced as well. Never change the O-Ring while getting an Oil Change for any of my vehicles I used to have. Anyways, Should I get the O-Ring or some kind of ring that is use for the Oil, replaced?
I heard someone saying something about an O-Ring was bad and Oil kept on leaking, as she took her car in the shop for an Oil Change and asked about the leaking problem. The mechanic said a Ring was bad which caused the oil to leak and she suggest everyone to get the Ring replace while getting the oil change.
Not sure what O-Ring (something use to protect leaks, besides the seal or gasket) she was talking about. Maybe, someone might know. Can someone help me understand, wished I were a mechanic, as I still haven't brought a repair book yet.
By the way, I will be going to Tontitown, Arkansas hopefully before the weekend, so I'll keep everyone posted. Thanks...
#22 of 27 Re: It's been awhile, Hi everyone [pa356228]
Aug 21, 2009 (6:01 am)
The only O-ring I'm familiar with in the oil change procedure is a large O-ring located in the oil filter cap. I have never had to replace this O-ring in over 5 years of changing the oil and filter on a 2.2L Ecotec engine. If the O-ring was leaking, there would be an oil leak all over the oil filter housing located at the right-front of the engine. That being said, some oil filters (NAPA in particular) come with a replacement O-ring. I know for a fact that AC/Delco (factory GM part) does not. The O-ring is cheap. Don't let them sell you a new oil filter cap and O-ring together. They may try that. You can purchase the O-ring separately. If it's not leaking, don't even worry about it.
#23 of 27 I'm moving next week to home, First....
Sep 30, 2009 (11:50 pm)
Everyone has been a great help. I'm intending on moving back home to Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania on the 8th of October 2009. Not sure when I'll be posting again on these forums. Couple more days left, can't wait to leave Virginia Beach. Sucks down here.
Anyways, recently...my car mpg is dropping fast and now, close to 29.1 and it was 32.7. Notice it dropped last Wednesday. Not sure why, could be alot of different reasons. Last week, one of the tires were at 10psi (got it repaired.) All the tires are set at 32psi for now. Until, I leave, then I'll set them at 30psi (since it will take 7.5 hours of driving.) Had an Oil Change and Air Filter new, about a month ago. Do want to get a new fuel filter, but I have to wait til March 2010. So, Any advices that can help my car get more mpg? By the way, I haven't been using the Interstate in awhile. I know for a fact, that I can get my car up to 34mpg all the time, by moving back in the country. Where the country roads exisits. But, what else can help the mpg? Anything is helpful. Again, thanks....
#24 of 27 Re: I'm moving next week to home, First.... [pa356228]
Oct 01, 2009 (6:25 am)
The drop in mileage is not necessarily meaningful to me. If no engine lights are on and th engine runs well there probably isn't anything actually wrong.
First you had a very low tire, so low it may have damaged the sidewall. The tire store would have warned you if they thought it had happened. That tire hurt the mileage reading you had been getting.
Second we have switched to winter gasoline. It is a higher volatility cut of the distillate. That gives better starting for cold engines when incoming air is colder than summertime, but it hurts fuel mileage. Also you may have been getting gas that has more alcohol in it. The alcohol hurts your fuel mileage. Try using only name brand gas when you can and you'll probably see a difference.
Third, I have the tires in my Cobalt at 36 instead of the recommended 30. That helps mileage. It hurts the ride some. But especially on a longer highway trip the gas mileage increase will be meaningful.
Fourth, I don't think GM recommends changing gas line filter unless there's a problem with fuel pressure. If you have 120,000 miles and occasionally buy gas from the cheapie stations that aren't brand stations, you might change it just in case you got some gunk somewhere. But most stations have filters inline or actually on the hose that filter out "stuff." Save the money for the fuel filter for something else.
Fifth, the only thing I'd chance wasting a little money on would be a 12 ounce size bottle of Techron fuel system additive, not the injector cleaner which is cheaper. It's at Walmart or Advance Auto or others at about $5.95. I think one newspaper ad this week had two for $7.95, the alleged regular price. I'd put that in like that bottle says when the tank is fairly low, while you're ready to pump gas in, then fill the tank. It _might_ clean your injectors and fuel system. The gasolines usually keep injectors clean. Another option is to fill up with something like Shell's Premium V fuel WHEN your tank is about half full already so you're mixing regular and premium and ending up with about Plus grade octance; you don't need highest octane, but the cleaners might help instead of using Techron additive. There are supposed to be extra additives in the higher grades of fuel; it might, might clean up injectors if there is anything crud on them. Other people probably have their preference of additives but mine has been Techron through the years. I only use it maybe twice a year because I pick up a bottle when I see it on sale at one of the auto parts box stores.
#25 of 27 First, Third and Fifth...
Oct 01, 2009 (11:30 pm)
First one: The tire repair shop, had to take out a nail out of one of the treads, didn't go thru the sidewall. Luckly, it didn't puntion the tire. So far the psi is holding 32.
Third one: Will it be better to set all the tires at 36psi? On Thursday, of next week, I'll be hauling up to 400 lbs on a 443.5 miles drive. Will it still be safe enough? According to your cobalt, at 36 psi, what is your Cobalt mpg aveage?
and Fifth one: According to the driver's manual, my Cobalt should only use 87 brands, Will it hurt the engine if I use 89 brands (or Premium)? And one more question, sorry about asking too much questions, btw. Does Techron fuel system additive works? Since you been using it for years, Does it cleans the whole fuel system and what else does it do?
#26 of 27 Re: First, Third and Fifth... [pa356228]
Oct 02, 2009 (4:53 am)
The tire pressure varies 1 pound/sq in with every 10 degrees up or down Fahrenheit. At typical outside temps now of 60 degrees in mornings my gauge shows 35 or 36. It used to be 37-38 when mornings were warmer. I find the dash gauge shows one tire higher. Don't trust the tire sensors; get your own $1 gauge and set the tires yourself when cold. 36 should be good; pressure will increase some with tires warming up and especially with a load.
The Techron was an early additive package by Chevron sold at stations. BMW long ago when gasolines weren't carrying good enough additives in some cases recommended Techron. It was the same additives used by Chevron in their gasolines. Since then government intervention required better additives in all gasolines, including regular. I still use Techron rather than other over-the-counter brands just because I feel it works. A Cincinnati car repair talk show guy recommended it for cleaning injectors up until he went off the air a year ago. He owns a body shop and major independent repair place in a high end part of the city. He was a graduate of the local vocation school for the county. He knows his stuff.
It also cleans and protects the fuel gauge sensor potentiometer metals against deteriorating from sulfur in gasoline. GM had a few gauges that would corrode from that and give erratic readings. In the past decade when I would put it in and drive the car, the car seemed to run better after half an hour's driving. I believed it did clean up what some gasolines left on injectors. Then I used to buy cheapest gas and mix brands about half and half with known name brands. Now I buy Kroger's gas, Mobile/Exxon, and Shell. Rarely anything else. I don't notice as much effect after putting it in the last couple of years. I consider it throwaway money spent for the additive. If I didn't use it I would probably occasionally spend extra money and run a couple of fillups of premium Shell/Texaco, Mobile, or Marathon thinking I was cleaning up the fuel system with the supposed better additive package in the premium. (We don't have Chevron in this area anymore.) Since the car doesn't need premium, I would only do that for a couple of fills--the first fill had 87 octane gas mixed with premium while the second would increase octane above 89 for the mixture.
A little philosophy here: most stations mix premium and regular to get the Plus grade. So I'd rather just add some gallons of premium where I know I'm getting 100% additives and gas rather than trust their computerized mixing ratio and just buy Plus.
The Techron Fuel System Cleaner supposedly does more for the whole system; an identical looking bottle is called Techron Injector Cleaner and I believe it contains less additives overall because it's usually cheaper.
My personalized advice would be add a 12 oz bottle of TEchron to a low tank, fill with premium. Drive it down to half a tank and refill with quality brand premium. Then use regular of a good brand. Do that for your trip. Occasionally put in a few gallons of premium to fill your tank. Otherwise use quality brand regular to avoid alcohol in higher percentages which cuts gas mileage.
#27 of 27 idleing problems
Dec 14, 2009 (1:08 pm)
i have an 06 chevy cobalt ls and i have the same problems as you when i stop at a light, or turn the air or the defrost on the car wants to idle bad just wondering if you have found the problem if so i really need to know ive changed the map sensor and a few other thing still hasn't solved my problems the car is getting to the point were it will stall itself out thanks...