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2003 Suburban bogging down and dying out

2 messages,  Last post on Apr 17, 2009 at 8:12 AM

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#1 of 2 2003 Suburban bogging down and dying out by derm94 Apr 16, 2009 (2:30 pm)
I am stuck and hoping you have some answers for me. My 2003 Suburban has been bogging down. When I drive I have to maintain a steady pace and accelerate very gradually or it will bog down. If I try to punch it to pass it will bog and die. If I tap, tap, tap on the petal it will do ok and move through the gears and eventually get up speed. On hills I have to pull over to the side and chug up the hill. We have already replaced the fuel pump and filter as well as the mass air flow meter. Yesterday I ran out of gas (fuel guage broken too). I was only able to go about 50 the last 20 miles before I ran out. It would just not let me go any faster, or slower than that without bogging and almost dying. Sometimes it would backfire. Now that it has a full tank of gas it is running much much better but I know that is short lived. Any advice would be great. Thanks!! Replies to this message: arrie (Apr 17, 2009 8:12 am)
#2 of 2 Re: 2003 Suburban bogging down and dying out [derm94] by arrie Apr 17, 2009 (8:12 am)
Replying to: derm94 (Apr 16, 2009 2:30 pm) For trouble shooting purposes do the following test:   Disconnect for example the MAF (Mass Air Flow) sensor harness. Start the car and go driving and see if the problem is the same.   Disconnecting one of the sensors that control engine fuel consumption will put the engine control in a pre-programmed mode, i.e. the computer controls engine with pre-programmed values and does not use different sensors as one of them has "failed" by you disconnecting it. The engine should run just fine, just like cold engine after you start-up when the engine also runs in pre-programmed mode until normal engine operating temperature is reached. This test does not do any harm to the engine. It will make engine run a little bit rich, i.e. fuel consumption is a bit higher than during normal "closed loop" operating condition just like it is when engine temperature is below normal after cold start. It will put the "Check Engine Soon" light on but no harm is done.   If your car drives fine during this test with MAF sensor disconnected then it is an indication of a problem with some sensors that control the engine fuel performance but if the problem still exists it means problem probably is with some basic engine control.   To reset the SES light you probably need a scanning tool. Some auto part stores will read the codes and reset the light for free but if you want to go route of working on your car by yourself I highly recommend buying a OBD II scanner that can be used to reset the light. It cost about $100 but is very necessary tool to have if you decide to be your own mechanic.   Arrie

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