Last post on Aug 11, 2011 at 10:06 AM
You are in the Mitsubishi Outlander
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Mitsubishi Outlander, SUV
#111 of 341 Re: GT Option(less) [fushigi]
Jan 28, 2010 (12:29 am)
My 2010 Outlander GT (3,500 miles) started to show more frequently some kind of bumpy automatic change of gear (Tarmac mode) especially at low speed (usually when the vehicle starts moving). When the car is moving from steady speed to higher speed sometimes the change of gear can be felt as a noticeable step. On many other occasions I am unable to feel these patchy or bumpy automatic speed controls but when these happen it can be felt and heard. I wonder if other 2010 Outlander GT owners have experienced a similar situation.
I remember with my previous 2008 Outlander XLS with more than 10,000 miles the vehicle had a similar infrequent and not synchronized automatic behavior (which I thought was normal). In spite of the fact that the accelerator was pressed down the automatic didnít change the gear up and it took a relatively long time to change until a technician from a Mitsubishi garage in New York identified it and said that he needed to load some of the latest software (or patch) into the vehicle computer so it could regain normality (i.e. smooth automatic) which he did. The problem was solved.
I think I have also got a slight warp tire noise at slow speed. I have had the tires rebalanced and rotated with the intention that the warp noises may eventually go. No success. I wonder if the new Yokohama tires start to develop this phenomenon. I donít think -when I tested the brand new vehicle with the Good Year stock tires- I felt this slightly distorted (up/down) noise.
Comments appreciate it.
#112 of 341 Re: GT Option(less) [batman47]
Jan 28, 2010 (6:01 am)
Well, I can notice the 1-2 and 2-3 shifts but pretty much all shifting after that is so smooth I can't tell what gear it's in without going to manual mode. I will keep an eye on it, though.
My '99 Galant, which I replaced with the '10 GT, had the occasional 1-2 shift flare but it never developed into a daily problem or led to a major issue. That car had a couple of recalls but IIRC none were powertrain-related.
If the tire balancing doesn't work, you can consider rotating the tires to see if the problem sound follows it. If it does then you've a bad tire. If not, there could be a suspension piece that's gotten bent (perhaps from hitting a bad pothole).
The only technical issue I've got so far is the headlights .. not really a problem for me but the default setting of 0 on the load leveler has them very close to intruding on the interior of cars in front of me. I'm debating making 1 my normal setting to be polite to others.
I'm in the Chicago suburbs so I've been using a mix of Tarmac & Snow modes. Snow proved it's worth in my first week of ownership.
#113 of 341 Re: GT Option(less) [batman47]
Jan 28, 2010 (8:25 pm)
That sounds like typical "drive-by-wire" sensation. You may notice it more easily with sudden acceleration or on a cold engine. I think this is common for all new vehicles with this feature. It sometimes feels like small turbo lag. I have my (07 XLS) computer "flashed" too, it fills better now, but only marginally. In normal driving, I don't feel any gear changes, and the re-programming was to fix slow acceleration from second gear (after making a turn for example). Original programming was geared more toward fuel economy, than spirited driving.
#114 of 341 American wheels vs Japanese wheels
Jan 29, 2010 (1:20 pm)
On the stock alloy wheels that come with the vehicle Outlander 2010, the transversal surface (the edges which are utilized to attach the wheel weights) is practically flat which allows attaching wheel weight circumferentially or transversely.
I ordered through my local Mitsubishi an extra alloy wheel Part# 4250B368 for my Outlander GT and to my very disappointment the wheel although it looks the same as the Japanese original the transverse surface has circumferential grooves. These circumferential cross sections of the wheel (where wheel weight are attached) donít allow attaching wheel weight transversally because the area is not flat. The dealer explained that after querying to MMNA he was told that few parts are manufactured for the Japanese market only, e.g. wheels, oil filter, jacks, etc. The final result of this is that the 5th alloy wheel doesnít have flat transversal surface (where wheal weights are attached) and indeed it is not equal to its other 4-siblings. Some of my friend has criticized for buying a alloy wheel (extra) but I have my personal reasons.
The curious thing of the whole occasion was that the technician that put the Yokohama tire on this wheel attached 16 wheel weights of ľ ounces each circumferentially (15-pieces in one edge and 1 piece in the other edge). This was weird. This was the first time in my life I saw so many wheel weights in only one wheel. The dealer charged me $25 per each wheel tire assembly.
Talking with other tire specialists they told me that the number of wheel weights can be reduce significantly if the tire/rubber is rotate in relation to the wheel that sustains it. So this is what I am going to do next.
#115 of 341 Outlander GT Off-Road Fun in Palm Springs, CA
Jan 30, 2010 (8:50 am)
GT off-road video. Cross-posted from Mitsu's FaceBook page.
#116 of 341 Re: Outlander GT Off-Road Fun in Palm Springs, CA [fushigi]
Jan 30, 2010 (9:57 am)
But where's the off-roading?
(It's an interesting introduction, but is there a followup where they actually try to get stuck?) Gotta be a part 2 that's coming. I understand that it 's probably difficult to show the new S-AWC is better while not making the older system look bad, but I'll be curious to see what they demo comparing the 2.
#117 of 341 Re: Outlander GT Off-Road Fun in Palm Springs, CA [comem47]
Jan 30, 2010 (4:38 pm)
Yeah, that's the gist of the comment I left for Mitsu on Facebook. OK video but it needed to actually show more off-roading, sand-slinging, crawling over a few rocks, etc.
#118 of 341 Re: GT Option(less) [fushigi]
Jan 31, 2010 (10:14 am)
Oscillating tire noise
I have inflated the 4-tires (Yokohama Geolandar A/T-S) to 37 psi from 32 psi (recommended by the manufacturer) and to my happy surprise the fluctuating tire noise simply has gone.
The ride now is pleasant. I thought that increasing the tire pressure the ride would become a bit harsh and I will be able to feel all the imperfection of the road but this didnít occur.
The solution has worked for me but it may depend on the make and manufacture of the tire.
#119 of 341 Re: GT Option(less) [batman47]
Feb 03, 2010 (2:04 pm)
Hi Same problem here. The shift is noisy when cold but does seem to go away when warm. I took it to dealer for another problem. Bad injector turned out to be bad wiring harness. Had it replaced and shifting seems to have improved. Not sure if it is the fix or a fluke.
#120 of 341 The dreadful paint chip has returned.
Feb 19, 2010 (7:59 pm)
My Outlander GT has 5,500 miles at the moment and I have been driving 100% only on Tarmac and I havenít adventure to drive on any other road that this.
After washing my car a few weeks ago I felt nauseous when I saw 100 to 200 little paint chips (spots) caused by a combination of little stones flying from the front tires to the rear of the car and the little stones flying in opposite direction from the rear tires. The result was paint chips precisely located at the bottom of both rear doors and back panels (next message will follow with photo).
My previous 2008 Outlander XLS came with some transparent protection film exactly located in the same place where my GT got the paint chips. Mitsubishi engineers got it wrong again by thinking that a wider mud guard in the front tires and extra chrome extension than runs just under the doors (front and rear) will prevent paint chips on the car. Yes it prevented paint chips at the bottom of the front doors but unfortunately they didnít put on the protective transparent plastic film on the bottom of the rear doors close to the rear wheel arches.
I wonder if I can put a claim (warranty) for re-painting both areas. Reading previous forum members complaints it appears some dealers were willing to repaint it and others refused to do it. Will some members comment on this? I was told that the District manager or Mitsubishi District (Zone or Area) manager usually visits dealerships only one time per month and that I have to wait 20-days because the manager was in this particular dealership one week ago for his monthly visit! I have also been told that a reputable body shop will commonly charge $3000 to $4000 for a re-paint to eliminate the hundreds of little pain chips in both rear doors at the bottom side of the vehicle.