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Buick LeSabre Engine help

62 messages,  Last post on Nov 23, 2009 at 3:22 PM

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#2 of 62 by macksugar Feb 02, 2009 (4:28 pm)
I bought a 1976 LeSare two years ago from my grandpa....it was wrecked with frame damage so i decided to pull engine and transplant it into another LaSabre. I want it to be original but can't seem to figure out what size engine it is. Can someone help me? Replies to this message: imidazol97 (Feb 02, 2009 7:52 pm)
#3 of 62 Re: [macksugar] by imidazol97 Feb 02, 2009 (7:52 pm)
Replying to: macksugar (Feb 02, 2009 4:28 pm) I assume it's a V8. I think the V6 showed up 1977. LeSabre Custom had 350 standard and 455 optional.
#4 of 62 Re: Engine help [livingfree] by pcjd388 Feb 04, 2009 (6:14 am)
Replying to: livingfree (Feb 01, 2009 6:54 am) I have a 1997 Buick lasabre Limited and I took it to get the oil changed, and the tech came to get me and showed me some oil on the bolts of the intake manifold and he wasnt completely sure if the oil was coming from the intake or the valve covers. The valve cover bolts are also oily and I have lost a little more than a quart of oil over a longgggg period of time. I was also told by another source that If my intake was leaking then the car would not run very well, is this true? The car runs like a scalded cat...lol runs very well...So I figure I would use degreaser on these areas before I go into any major work on it myself. Does anyone have instructions to taking the intake manifiold off if it ends out to be that, I have never taken one off this car and I am determined not to pay the 400 labor these idiots want, so I need help on how to get this off if anyone has instructions. But I also need feedback on whether the car would run right or not if the intake manifold was leaking Replies to this message: imidazol97 (Feb 04, 2009 6:34 am) pcjd388 (Feb 04, 2009 6:47 am) imidazol97 (Feb 04, 2009 9:54 am) bob252 (Feb 28, 2009 11:45 am) no_car_note (Oct 01, 2009 5:20 pm)
#5 of 62 Re: Engine help [pcjd388] by imidazol97 Feb 04, 2009 (6:34 am)
Replying to: pcjd388 (Feb 04, 2009 6:14 am) If there is oil in the low spots it comes up the threads of certain bolts after aging. I'd have to research just which and where, but it is common. Dry it out with paper towels and see if it's all oil or contains coolant. If it is coolant, I'd still not worry. I have two sitting out there and both have seeped a little oil into those areas. If you're using a quart of oil in 1500 miles or longer, you're fine. A little seeps around the valve cover seals on some cars and a little seeps on the oil pan gasket after aging on some cars. Not worth trying to fix.   What's the mileage on the car and whether you've owned it since new. If the DexCool was changed out after two years or 36000 miles all through its life, you're in better shape than if ANY coolant were left in to age.   If the coolant hasn't been changed, drain it now and refill with DexCool or Prestone Mixes with any color type coolant. If you are not losing coolant more than a trivial amount in a couple weeks or month of driving hundreds of miles, there's no problem. The upper intake can be replaced easily by someone with mechanical skills. You have to keep track of bolts and screws. Many shops have done enough that they are rather quick and the price is not near $400 labor. I'd guess at $250 for a 5-hour job to do upper only with $99 for a quality, APN replacement including new gaskets.   I can give you more info if you're interested, but don't let the slight amount of coolant over years scare you without definite indications of internal or external leaks. Replies to this message: pcjd388 (Feb 04, 2009 6:47 am) imidazol97 (Feb 04, 2009 9:54 am) bob252 (Feb 28, 2009 11:45 am)
#6 of 62 Re: Engine help [imidazol97] by pcjd388 Feb 04, 2009 (6:47 am)
Replying to: imidazol97 (Feb 04, 2009 6:34 am) Thank you for your reply but actually I am not losing any coolant at all. Its only oil on the valve cover on backside of firewall and the front valve cover. I had a new intake manifold put on several months back and maybe thats why the bolts look like something was leaking, prob after they put it on. I keep a check on radiator and I am full to the rim since the intake was fixed, so maybe I just have valve cover gasket leaking up front and backside.     I also have another problem going on if you can give me feedback on it also. several months back I replaced my rotors and put on new brakes because when I would brake, the front left tire would shake like it was coming off. After I put on the brakes and rotors it seem to stop alot compared to what it was doing, but then that same crap started again. Now the car shakes and shimmies when I am coming to a stop. I have inspected the front end parts and everything seems to be the way it suppose to be, nothing is loose and looks good so I am stumped. Can calipers if they are bad cause this kind of shaking? I know this is a double question and I respect what info I can get.....thankyou....Joey Replies to this message: imidazol97 (Feb 04, 2009 9:54 am) bob252 (Feb 28, 2009 11:45 am)
#7 of 62 Re: Engine help [pcjd388] by imidazol97 Feb 04, 2009 (9:54 am)
Replying to: pcjd388 (Feb 04, 2009 6:47 am) My suggestion is don't try to tighten the valve covers. I read about people having trouble with leaks and wanting to stop it. They remove the covers and put on new gaskets. On one version of the motor there's something that blocks one bolt on the back cover IIRC.   Calipers give more trouble. They drag. Heat up the rotor then when you step on the brake it's already hot and warping. If you don't mind spending a little, get rebuilt calipers and put them on both sides and be done. Otherwise you have to try to clean up and figure out what's dragging, the piston or the bolt slides. The bolt slides have rubber sleeves that go inside the ears of the calipers. The inside of the caliper ears corrode and shrink which squeezes the rubber which makes them drag. You can replace calipers without new pads and without new rotors. You might find your rotor isn't damaged.
#8 of 62 Engine Leaking Water by mrsjudkins Feb 23, 2009 (10:44 am)
I have a 1991 Buick LeSabre and I have to put water in the radiator several times a day, but the engine never runs hot. When you start the car you can see the water leaking out of the side of the engine where the plugs are. I haven't been able to get anyone to tell me exactly what the problem is. Is there anyone here that can help me? Replies to this message: stephen987 (Feb 23, 2009 11:19 am) imidazol97 (Feb 28, 2009 3:17 pm)
#9 of 62 Re: Engine Leaking Water [mrsjudkins] by stephen987 Feb 23, 2009 (11:19 am)
Replying to: mrsjudkins (Feb 23, 2009 10:44 am) There are several possibilities. Without being able to see exactly where the water is coming from, I can't really tell you for sure. Can you describe exactly where it seems to be leaking?
#10 of 62 Re: Engine help [pcjd388] by bob252 Feb 28, 2009 (11:45 am)
Replying to: pcjd388 (Feb 04, 2009 6:47 am) OK.But the one thing a lot of people seem to miss is actualy the front BRAKE HOSE.for some reason there is a condition caused by the brake fluid which deteriorates the hose only allowing one direction of the fluid, and that is a lock up, it won't return and causes the caliper to remain in the pressure position, it is easy to tell by grabbing the hose at the caliper, you will feel the resistance. Another way to check this is to have someone step on the pedal while observing the caliper for retraction after it is released. This should not require a lot of work, the only problem potential here is the bleeder.Hopefully it isn't frozen. This situation has fooled a lot of people. hope this helps.
#11 of 62 Re: Engine Leaking Water [mrsjudkins] by imidazol97 Feb 28, 2009 (3:17 pm)
Replying to: mrsjudkins (Feb 23, 2009 10:44 am) When you say it's where the plugs are, I assume that's the spark plugs you're talking about. It could be one of the core plugs which some people call freeze plugs. They are metal discs that are forced fitted into the hole in the block where the machining was done. They can rust away and start leaking. They can be removed and a replacement fitted in but driving the new metal plug in.    There are some that are not solid metal like the original but are rubber edges and are put in place and then tightened which swells them out to make a force fit sealing the hole.

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