Last post on Jun 01, 2013 at 7:50 PM
You are in the Buick LeSabre
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Buick LeSabre, Engine
#129 of 138 Re: NON honking horn [dewc3]
Jun 12, 2012 (2:35 pm)
>would not stop untill someone tapped on the horn,
Did you mean they tapped on the pad on the steering wheel where the contacts are or do you they tapped on the horn out under the hood?
My first thoughts were the the pad ont he steering wheel has contacts the were making their own connection. There were some problems with other car models having the contact touch when the outside temperatures got cold, like near freezing.
Or it could be the relay NOW that won't work and is keeping the horn from sounding. The relay is one of those in the relay center on the firewall above the engine. The relays can be pulled forward by using a thin knife under it to lift the metal strip that snaps down to lock it into place on a ridge when the relay is pushed back in.
The horn relay is a single throw, single contact. There are others in the group that are the same part number and they can be switched to test to see it the relay is the problem. There has to be a fuse also. I'll look that up and post later along with a diagram of the relays to identify which is which.
#130 of 138 Re: 2003 Lesabre Engine Rumbling [steve629]
Jun 12, 2012 (2:40 pm)
It could be a misfire on two cylinders because a coil is not firing. Or the spark control unit that's the plate under the three coils might not be working right and giving random misfires, but then with heat the coil or the spark control module start working.
Without hearing it and feeling it, I think it's hard to tell.
Your best bet is to have the codes read at Autozone or Advance Auto Parts. Take the paper they give with the codes that have been stored. Remember, do not replace parts based on the codes. They are symptoms. You have to find what is actually causing the symptom.
I suspect you'll find random misfires indicating the spark control module--you might try tightening the ground on it's connnect on the front edge.
Or you 'll get a single misfire for one cylinder or for the two that are affected by the one coil.
#131 of 138 Re: 2003 Lesabre Engine Rumbling [imidazol97]
by Kirstie@Edmunds HOST
Jun 13, 2012 (6:42 am)
[clicking my imaginary "thumbs up" button]
Thanks! I was sending this person to answers because I didn't know if anyone was actually following this discussion.
#132 of 138 Re: 2003 Lesabre Engine Rumbling [steve629]
Jun 13, 2012 (8:15 am)
Well it's great to see Imadozer is still with us, as he always gives great advice. Firstly itis hard to point a direction to start without a code, until I read the whole question I was ready to reply with the idle air controler, but when he is accerating that didn't apply, I have had a similar problem that ended up with the plug wires, the carbon pile inside hardened up right at the spark plug end of the boot and created the same problem..(actually at 2 of the wires). So until we get a code to get a direction where to begin throwing parts at it won't be the best place to start. There was another incident that created a similar problem in the past and that was the little rubber elbow with the vacuum line that went to the modulator on the transmission that had dried out and split and made it lose the vacuum and caused the bad idle condition, but there wa an indicator light with a (P) or permanent code without an explanation, and if this helps I'm all for looking into that, as it's an easy fix as is what I'm responding here with, good luck in any case. By the way that LeSabre had 250,000 miles on it at the time.
#133 of 138 oil in radiator, no water in oil
Jul 21, 2012 (10:46 am)
Wife was driving our 98 lesabre the other night, when it suddenly died. Temp Gage showed overheating. Next day, put water in, it started, and by the time it got home, 2 or 3 miles, was overheating already. Stuck my finger in the radiator, and the inside is coated with oil residue, but the oil on the shows no signs of water contamination. Engine has 198k miles on it... any ideas?
#134 of 138 Re: oil in radiator, no water in oil [cubix_rube]
Jul 22, 2012 (3:50 am)
There are 2 possibilities, the most likely one is the intake manifold and gaskets. The second would be a head gasket, but since there is nothing in the oil my bet would be the first one. Autozone sells a whole kit for that for a reasonable price. With the number of miles involved here I hope everything else is ok my old buick went 250,000 before needing the same repair.
#135 of 138 Re: oil in radiator, no water in oil [cubix_rube]
Jul 22, 2012 (5:58 am)
Replace thermostat. Then start diagnosing. What seems like oil residue may be results of people mixing regular coolant with Dexcool or from the antiseep pellets put into the radiator to seal small leaks.
Overheating to the point of stall if bad. Best if turned off when temp gauge isn't maxed. Since you weren't driving, no one may be certain just how high the gauge was. But you probably will need to do compression tests and/or use a sensor for hydrocarbons in the radiator to determine that you have combustion leakage.
#136 of 138 Re: Oil pressure [orangeup]
Oct 29, 2012 (10:05 pm)
Just reporting back that 20.000 miles later the Buick LaSabre is just doing fine running back an forth to college (360 miles RT) for one of my daughters. I bought the other one a 97 Camry. Still working all 4 vehicles in Dad's garage. ... and by the way, back then, I did find 2 O-Rings instead of one that was causing that noise issue. Removed one and all was well. We're at 197.000 miles now. I had a broken stabilizer bar a while back. Heard a loud pop going through a corner and I happen to be in the vehicle. Not cheap those bars. Anyway it's sure nice to see your still helping people out. In this economy who can afford $100/hr mechanics? Take care. p.s. I posted some notes under the Toyota section (2000 Avalon)
#137 of 138 Re: 2003 Lesabre Engine Rumbling [bob252]
Oct 29, 2012 (10:32 pm)
That little rubber elbow that split. did you ever find a replacement for it? I had the same problem and could not find a replacement. I rigged something goofy that worked for a while and got a lot of laughs but finally I used clear silicone and fixed the old one by coating it thick. Thanks.
ps. It's a 3 way rubber join with 3 diff sized connections.
#138 of 138 air condition problem
Jun 01, 2013 (7:50 pm)
I was curious if anyone has any idea what i can try to figure out why my air condition blows cold air out the driver side and hot air out the passenger side. It has the dual air control but the digital control inside the car doesnt seem to be working right, it wont light up at all so with that not working right,could that have an effect on the right side not blowing cold air also? I have heard something about some kind of actuators thats behind the glove box kinda against the firewall and that there is one on each side, driver and passenger. It blowing out cold air on one side and hot air on the other is on a good day...lol some days you can set the controls to blow MID and it will blow up the windshield. Also if I can get instructions on how to get to the actuators (flaps) for each side would be really helpful in case its not the digital control inside the car but a guy told me to buy a replacement control, since it is cheaper and see if that corrects the problem but any input here will really be helpful