Last post on Mar 09, 2010 at 11:28 AM
You are in the Mazda CX-9
What is this discussion about?
Mazda CX-9, SUV
#40 of 49 Re: New Member Thread [MazdaTechie]
Oct 26, 2009 (4:52 am)
God I hate to get inolved in "the noise" issue... but if you really prowl around on this forum and talk to other drivers - the right, front knocking noise at low speeds, over bumps seems to be extraordinarily consistent. Noises come in all different frequencies and volumes and can also be transmitted differently, so it's a tricky issue - always. BUT - the descriptions of this low frequency, non metallic knocking noise is very very consistent on all the forums - which leads me to believe that there really is a source for this noise. Do thousand and thousands of car owners have to go for a ride with the tech, for the noise to not appear, and then we just go on like this for years? The last time I heard a noise like this was from a Ford Explorer that kept eating up the front torsion bar bushings and spitting them out, bit by bit. It took Ford two years to come up with a solution, but once they did it was fixed properly. Where are we going with this clunk/knocking suspension noise issue? Strut tower bearings/brake booster plate/cv joints... WE NEED HELP!
#41 of 49 Re: New Member Thread [pwr1]
Oct 26, 2009 (6:52 pm)
I believe you. By all means, I know in my heart you're telling 100% truth, and the noise is happening. However, consider a competent technician's point of view, whether it be mine or someone else's:
If you're experiencing an abnormal noise, whether it be this or something else, I as a technician simply MUST be able to hear the noise as well, and be able to hear it at least somewhat consistently. If it's intermittent and I have to drive for a little while or try different road qualities, or do something totally out of the ordinary to make it happen, that's fine. But if it doesn't happen at all, or only happens once, there is NOTHING for me to go by in order to fix it.
The sad truth is that sometimes, the problem has to get worse in order for me to track it down.
Example: A wonderful customer of mine has a 2006 Tribute. He's been experiencing a buzzing noise somewhere in the steering column. The first time he came in for it, we rode together and could not duplicate it. I explained to him in my typical fashion the same ideas I've expressed above. He understood. I took care of his other maintenance and issues on that visit, and sent him on his way. The next time he came in, he stated the noise had become more consistent. We rode again, and I, albeit faintly and intermittently, could hear it. But it was enough to begin the chase. After a day and a half of digging, turns out it was literally in the steering column itself--not anything attached to it, and nothing else transferring the noise into it.
The point is, I'm only able to troubleshoot a problem I can reproduce, and that goes the same for every technician out there. If you find an auto technician that promises to fix a problem he can't duplicate, except for VERY few exceptions, he's lying to you, or overconfident.
I say very few exceptions. These exceptions come in the form of Technical Service Bulletins (TSBs). In the case of a TSB, even then the manufacturer typically asks the technician to duplicate the problem first. But there are some where it will not be possible. For example, we've had issues with the occasional A/C freezing up on long trips. Mazda is aware that a technician cannot test drive the customer's vehicle in a "long trip" fashion to duplicate an A/C freeze-up. However they released a TSB to address the issue, and literally said to perform the repair based on the customer's description of the problem (but still stating 'if system operates normally').
I just searched for TSBs with the symptoms you described. The closest one refers to a low pitch squeak/chirp heard from the front suspension or dashboard, and instructs to replace the strut top mounting rubber on the offending side. However nothing came up for a knocking noise.
I know this reply is lengthy, but I'm hoping I can at least be clear. The truth is, rare/almost non-existent are the noises that never get worse with time and use of the vehicle. If you come in and you can't make the noise happen for the tech one time, just come in again when it gets more consistent, or on a day where it's just happening like crazy. In other words, KEEP TRYING, and any good, honest technician will KEEP TRYING WITH YOU. Every Mazda dealer technician has several resources (people and in print) at his disposal in addition to his skill to fix the issue if he can duplicate it. If you continue to come in, eventually (and if it's something serious, probably sooner than you think), you and the technician WILL be able to duplicate it, and he/she WILL be able to chase it down. As that time approaches, you'll also learn more and more on how to specifically duplicate it. Hot weather/cold weather, warmed up vehicle or dead cold first thing in the morning, the description you gave, etc. And the more specific descriptors you give, the better off you and the dealer will be. Your service advisor should be probing for details, but my advice to you is to provide them without being asked, and try to ensure he/she acknowledges you and notes them down. Not all service advisors will make the effort on their own, unfortunately.
Summary: No matter what the noise is, if it can't be reproduced on your service visit (be it driving it, revving the motor, hitting the area it's coming from, or whatever method works), there's no humanly possible way for a technician to even know where to begin to try to fix it, much less find the source of it. But if you work with the dealer (and in turn the technician) by returning again whenever you can make it happen best, or when it gets worse, or what have you, I/we/they WILL fix your car.
And if you come in during your warranty for the noise, but we can't reproduce it until your warranty has expired, I've seen it happen multiple times where that issue will still be honored under warranty simply because you experienced it during that time.
So please, don't lose hope.
#42 of 49 AWD vs FWD
Feb 27, 2010 (7:10 am)
I'm new to this forum but have a question I have yet to see addressed directly. I'm very close to pulling the trigger on a 2010 CX-9, but am debating on getting a AWD vs a FWD. I live in Ohio where the winters (usually) are more slushy, slippery driving than heavy snow. I have never owned an AWD and with comments on the decreased gas mileage and increased buy-in cost, I'm wondering if it is worth the extra money. I've driven both but it was on dry pavement and didn't notice any real difference. One other thing, I have learned the value of snow tires and will either buy them and extra rims or try the Yokohama Spec-X tires. I would appreciate anyone's thoughts on this as I want to buy soon.
#43 of 49 Re: AWD vs FWD [rtheb]
Feb 27, 2010 (12:37 pm)
I guess it boils down to the question that if you have $2K to spend, what will you spend it on?
AWD + Yoko-Spec-X tires
FWD + extra set of snow tires
IMHO, it boils down to which one you value?
AWD helps you to get going, snow tires help stopping.
The choice is very personally.
Of course, you you have the money, AWD + snow tires is the best combo.
AWD gives you 1-2mpg less, and probably more problems down the road with shaft, transfer case, coupling device, etc.
Yoko-Spec-X is the best AS (all-season) tires for CX9. No doubt about that.
The users' top rating on tirerack.com cannot be overlooked.
#44 of 49 Re: AWD vs FWD [ceric]
Feb 27, 2010 (2:49 pm)
Thanks for your response. You make a good point about stopping. I white-knuckled it several winters before buying snow tires for my Maxima. It was stupid to wait that long! I guess my indecision boils down to being close to my purchase limit. Get the GT with AWD and no extras or FWD and the Bose/moonroof, Powered lift gate. It's pretty much one or the other. I'll likely go with the Yoko's regardless as I am a big fan of the brand already. I 'm just hesitant to put down this kind of money and realize I made a poor choice, especially with no personal AWD experience to draw on. I also wonder about gas mileage as I had rationalized 1 mpg less, but then read something in another post that it would likely be closer to three! That doesn't help the AWD cause. Thanks again, and I'll let you know what I decide and what I paid.
#45 of 49 Re: AWD vs FWD [rtheb]
Feb 28, 2010 (12:07 am)
The AWD on CX9 is very "behind-the-scene".
Unlike the one I experienced on Pilot (which gives a clutch feel when it engadges - thought bearly noticeable, but it was there). Personally, I cannot tell whether my AWD is working on not, though I have taken it up for skiing twice already up in Sierra Mts.
Anyhow, this is not the full-time 4WD, which is on all the time (such as older Lexus RX). The AWD is on-demand. The proportion of torque sent to the rear keeps on changing in various conditions. On highway cruising, it is FWD only.
Up to 50% torque can be sent to the rear when called for. Again, it is very hard to tell as a driver.
(no light blinking)
If I lived in where you live, I would spend my $$$ on snow tires first.
Having fun in the ditch is no fun at all ...
#46 of 49 Power cord stuck in AUX outlet
Mar 02, 2010 (6:26 pm)
Help. My wife just bought a new 2010 CX-9 GT and of course we love the car. On the 2nd day she plugged her cell phone power cord into the dashboard AUX outlet an it will not come out. I have pulled it as hard as I dare but to no avail. Also, I am unable to rotate it (thought that might help). I have read elsewhere that someone recommended spraying a small amount of WD-40 into it to see if that will loosen it but I have not tried that. Should I sacrifice the charge and try to disassemble it? What happens if I pull too hard and yank out the AUX socket? Anyone have any ideas?
#48 of 49 Re: Power cord stuck in AUX outlet [wsrbubber]
Mar 09, 2010 (11:28 am)
We have the same problem but with the aux charger outlet between the front seats. We have used it before with diff phone chargers - we've had the CX9 2010 since December 24th, and this weekend was the first time we had a problem.
The power cord is plugged in and wont come out or rotate either! And I tried for 15 minutes to get it out.
My wife called Mazda delearship and they say they have had the issue from 4 other customers. They have to order a new part. They say that the charger will come out without damage, but they will have to replace the outlet in the car.
Seems like this is an issue in both the outlet between the seats, and the one in the dash if you are having the same issue with the dash power outlet.