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SUVs Acura RDX 2010 Acura RDX
50 messages, Last post on Nov 18, 2009 at 9:05 PM
You are in the Acura RDX Forum. Your Hosts are steve_ & tidester
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Replying to: drr98 (Nov 17, 2009 8:08 am) I bet it doesn't say every 2,500 miles. 
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Replying to: steve_ (Nov 17, 2009 8:13 am) Way to turn the subject around. My question was/is - how will changing your oil at 2500mi vs 5000mi harm the cat/s? Please provide supporting info. My previous post here makes clear that I do not currently own an RDX. (nor do I own any other vehicle with a turbo) So which of my owners manuals are you refering to in your response to my question (with a question)? Clearly, most people with some basic knowledge of turbos will agree that they are very hard on oil due to high heat and rpms in the turbine. Hence my statement... "Overkill on the M1 oil/filter change? You betcha. For ~$30 per change(diy), and as much as $120/yr (10k mi.) it is the best (cheapest) insurance you can buy for your turbo." The idea is to prevent coking of the oil in the hot turbo. The RDX does use convective transfer to keep cooling the turbo after shutting off the motor. But if it is quite heat soaked this may not be enough cooling. That is where a computer controlled turbo timer comes in, allowing the system to cool down before shut off. Please, please provide supporting info that changing oil early will harm the cat/s.
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Replying to: drr98 (Nov 17, 2009 9:53 am) Here's his bio: "Donny is an ASE Master /L1 advanced diagnostic technician and C1 Service Consultant. Since 1994 he has been a participant writing test questions and working on passing score studies He has designed and built many performance vehicles for himself and customers and actively manages Seyfer’s performance and restoration service offerings." link |
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Steve, Donny never used the term "kill the cat". You did. Donny said, "New oil has chemicals that eat away the catalytic converter." Whatever that means? For the sake of argument lets say you and Donny are right and I'm a "cat killer. 1) Which is more important to the health of the engine, the cats or the bearings? 2) Will this chemical in the oil "kill" both cats or one or the other? 3) Can oil coking in the turbo bearings cause further problems in the engine? 4) Can a "killed cat/s" cause further problems in the engine? 5) Do you now or have you ever owned an RDX? (or any other turbocharged vehicle) FYI - '09 turbo lists for ~ $2700, pre-converter ~$955, converter ~ $760... So, if I have to pick which I have to "kill", let me "kill" the pre-converter, as the turbo costs ~ 3 x as much. Further, I suspect that coked oil from the turbo will have a negative effect on the engine bearings as well, since they share the same oil.
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Replying to: drr98 (Nov 18, 2009 12:17 pm) BTW, since I have a lease I follow the oil indicator on the computer. That's why I like a lease. I'm just borrowing the car.
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Replying to: geohov (Nov 18, 2009 12:41 pm) I won't consider buying a used car, it is a gamble. But there is pride in ownership in some people. (well, A R people like myself) I take great pride in maintaining every aspect of families vehicles. Most people really don't. Do you ever drive your RDX hard? (to the redline?)
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Replying to: drr98 (Nov 18, 2009 1:11 pm)
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Replying to: drr98 (Nov 18, 2009 12:17 pm) My '99 is on a 7,500 interval (135k) and my '97 is on a 5,000 one (67k). Dead dino, and I'd just as soon the engine and cat (and tranny, etc.) all last forever, since that's how long I drive them. You may appreciate the occasional oil analysis (about $20).
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Replying to: geohov (Nov 18, 2009 2:57 pm) What about you, ever had a turbo'd vehicle before? Ah, the break-in period. (and the lovely new car smell) My take on break-in is to try to not keep the engine at a steady speed, to vary the rpm as much as possible. Also keep it out of Vtec. No cruise control, and even vary rpm on the freeway by changing gears up and down. (and still maintain the same speed) Adopt this style for ~ 2500 mi and then just do whatever the manual says for break-in until 5 to 7 k/mi. As for the brakes, find a deserted long streach of road and do a few gentle stops from 30 to rolling, and then cruise for a couple of miles to cool the brakes. Next do a few gentle 40 to a roll stops followed by a few miles to cool the brakes. Next do a few 50 to a roll stops, followed by a four mile cool down. Last step do 60 to a roll stop somewhat firmly, followed by a five mile cool down. This both tempers the rotors and beds the pads. The brakes will now be ready for anything. Oh snap, I forgot its a lease...forget all that I just said above. Ha. I hate door dents and the little circles that get embosed in my bumper covers from people who need to park by feel. Ugh. |
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Replying to: steve_ (Nov 18, 2009 3:51 pm) Right now the coupe and the roadster are kept in the garage and the truck is parked on the street. My wife wants to let the coupe go before we buy our next vehicle, but I'm reluctent to part with it. The roadster is a handful in the rain, so I drive the truck a bit more in the winter. Having a fourth car will keep me out of the truck unless I really need to use it. I'm like you in that I want my cars to last. But I do drive them somewhat hard at times. We also auto-x the roadster in the summer. So yeah...tough test track miles. But I can and have fixed whatever I break. Ha. |
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