Last post on Mar 12, 2013 at 1:19 PM
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Jeep Wrangler, Scheduled Maintenance, Steering, Suspension, Tires, SUV
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#979 of 1886 Proper Lubrication (Lube Job) Technique
Jul 16, 2007 (7:56 am)
Fair-warning...I'm a vehicle DIY maintenance novice so what you're about to read may make a normal guy either cry, laugh, or cry laughing because I'm so naive about such basic knowledge. I often ask myself if I deserve owning a Wrangler but I figure you have to start learning somewhere...With that said, I hope you'll get over your tears of laughter and throw me some nuggets of basic maintenance understanding...
I have a 2005 Wrangler Unlimited with 22,000 miles. I've always had the dealer doing oil/lube every 3,000 miles but I wanted to start doing routine maintenance myself. I did the oil change using Quaker State Synthetic 4x4 "Torque Power" (sale at Menards got me into it) with a new Quaker State oil filter.
Here's my question...I wasn't sure exactly the "right way" to do the lubrication part of the process. I'd like to know the proper way to do a "lube job" on a vehicle.
I bought Pennzoil Premium Wheel Bearing 707L Red Grease to be sure I met the manufacturer specifications in the user manual (Pennzoil fact sheet showed it being used for all wheel and chassis lubrication and meeting the specs in my user manual for chassis lubrication). I bought a grease gun and a rubber extension tube.
During my first attempt, I found maybe five or six zerks on the bottom sides of steering control arm component joints which I cleaned and gave a few pumps. I noticed the rubber covering on each (are those called bushings?) bulge a little with each pump of the grease gun. I didn't want to do more than a few pumps of the handle for fear I was "stretching" that rubber "balloon" and might damage it.
1 - Should I pump in the grease until I see the rubber cover start to expand or is that already too much if it starts to expand?
2 - Should I keep pumping until I see some old grease come out from somewhere?
3 - Should I keep pumping until I see new grease come out to indicate I've "flushed-out" the old grease?
4 - How many zerks should I be finding on the front end of a Wrangler?
5 - Are there any zerks in the rear end I need to lubricate?
6 - Are there any places I need to grease that don't have zerks and you just have to rub it on?
7 - I see zerks on top and bottom of the front wheel hubs where the axle connects to them...I squeezed some grease into those but in hind-sight wondered if those are the "wheel bearing" zerks and I shouldn't have done that.
You guys are always so helpful that I should have asked first before trying but I didn't know what to ask until I got under the Jeep and tried it. Thanks for any help.
#980 of 1886 Re: 99 wrangler [lenny1563]
Jul 16, 2007 (6:06 pm)
Okay, i have checked out everything and i have replaced everything as well and i still have the problem. Someone has mentioned the crank positioning sensor, whats your opinion.
#981 of 1886 My Jeep wobbles/shakes/shimmies
Jul 19, 2007 (8:03 am)
Does anyone have any suggestions???
-My jeep will out of nowheres start shaking really bad. To the point where I have to stop. The whole thing shimmies violently its hard to keep the stearing wheel under control. I cant take it on highways anymore. Does any one know what to do about this?
#982 of 1886 Re: My Jeep wobbles/shakes/shimmies [thatcarabeth]
Jul 19, 2007 (8:34 am)
Details would help.
Have you done anything to it? Lift, new tires, balance, rotation, etc?
Specs on it would help.
My first inclination is to rotate and/or balance the tires. After that, check all steering components (track bar, drag link, tie rod (and ends), etc for looseness and tighten up to proper torque spec.
#983 of 1886 Sh-sh-sh- sh-shaken....
Jul 19, 2007 (12:31 pm)
At times JEEP will shake for different reasons.
Some times more violently than others.
Most often these shakes are because JEEP misses the dirt.
If you and JEEP do not spend enough time off road Jeep will have Dusty Trail Withdrawal Shakes. DT's for short.
Whenever JEEP gets the DT's it is best to head for the trail. If there is no trail near just jump a curb and let JEEP wander across any unpaved surface. This will delay the sever DT's but is only a stop-gap measure.
For a long term solution it is best to cancel you insurance throw away you tags and drivers license. Rip off JEEP's top and leave the paved surfaces behind.
Topless in the dirt is best for JEEP and Jeeper.
You and JEEP will be much happier.
...or balance your tires.
JEEP forever...forever JEEP.
#984 of 1886 Re: My Jeep wobbles/shakes/shimmies [erickpl]
Jul 19, 2007 (1:19 pm)
Lets see the tires have been balanced and rotated, there is a 2 inch lift. I got a new stabilizer bar put on it. Its got new suspension.
#985 of 1886 Re:My Jeep wobbles/shakes/shimmies by thatcarabeth
Jul 19, 2007 (6:40 pm)
This is often called "death wobble"
As per post 974, check all steering components for looseness
Check tire pressures
Go to "Jeep Wrangler" (the main discussion in this forum) and search under "death wobble" for many posts - recently post 22851 and others nearby
Lifts can aggravate wobble
#986 of 1886 Re: Proper Lubrication (Lube Job) Technique [jimlw2]
Jul 23, 2007 (9:04 am)
Got the following response from a well-respected member in our community and I thought his comments might help someone else wanting to know more about lubrication basics...
1 - I usually pump until it expands, then give it two or three more depending on how swollen the boot is.
2 - No, but don't worry if grease does come out. Just stop pumping at that point.
3 - No, because it's not flushing all the old grease out, just lifting the boot at its weakest point.
4 - Seven (from memory).
5 - No.
6 - Not really. You can grease handbrake and t/case linkages if you want, but it will retain dirt/grit and may do more harm than good.
7 - Those zerks are for the joints and not the wheel bearings (which are sealed). You were correct to lube them.
Occasionally you'll find 'u' joints that have been replaced with one that have a zerk. If so, then grease them until it starts to come past the seals. Same applies if you find zerks in the slip joints on the propshafts.
Don't worry about a boot splitting when you're pumping. It just means the boot was at the end of its life anyway, and better it splits when you can see it rather than on the road when you can't.
#987 of 1886 Re: Jeep Wrangler: Problems and Solutions [njbamadogz]
Jul 24, 2007 (1:57 pm)
Hey, you guys seem knowledgeable. I have a 2001 Wrangler 4.0. My oil pressure gages moves like my speedometer. If I am at a stop idel, my check gauges light comes on. Would this be a sending unit problem or could this meand my pump is going bad?
#988 of 1886 Check Engine Light, Blower Switch
Jul 26, 2007 (5:55 pm)
I've have a recurring issue that I've yet to solve on my own. Every couple of weeks, my check engine light comes on for my 97 Wrangler Sport. I when I check the codes I get 12, and 43. 12 is the power to the PCM was disconnected, and 43 (what I'm most concerned about) is a detected misfire in a piston; I don't have the diagnostic tool to check which piston. If there anything that I can do the further isolate the problem?
In addition, asked a previous question about my blower fan only working on high. I replaced the resistor pack behind the glove box, but I still have the same problem, and from reading through the posts, it seems that I have to replace the switch, but I'm not sure where this is located, or what part I need to get.
Thanks for the help; I finally have a place to go to get some good advice on how to work on my jeep.