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Jeep Wrangler Maintenance and Repair Questions (1997 - 2006)

1886 messages,  Last post on Mar 12, 2013 at 1:19 PM

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What is this discussion about? Jeep Wrangler, Scheduled Maintenance, Steering, Suspension, Tires, SUV

    
 
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Messages Page 69 of 189

#681 of 1886 Re: 99 Wrangler lunging while driving [kelly99] by jimmyeb

Jan 12, 2007 (9:44 am)

Replying to: kelly99 (Sep 05, 2006 10:34 am)
What's your driving style?
My 2003 Wrangler started doing this as well...I had about 28,000 miles on it when it started bucking down the highway. It would generate various "misfire" codes and the stealership told me sparkplugs and $200 later I had new spark plugs an only moderate bucking down the highway. I too figured bad sensors, but did some more research and learned jeep published a TSB about carbon fouling (Why jeep mechanics don't know about this I don't know). It turned out it's my driving habit that caused it. I pretty much babied my Jeep and because of that carbon was building up on valves and sparkplugs. Improperly functioning valves can cause lots of the problems listed here. I fixed that problem by making a point to wind the engine out before shifting. This driving style is terrible to the gas mileage, but the engine has been running smooth ever since. The TSB says 3200 rpm is the speed at which the valves start to rotate, so rev it past that. Luckily, my problem wasn't that far gone and I was able to fix it just by that. You may be fouled up to the point you'll need to de-carbonize the engine with something like 'Sea Foam'.

#682 of 1886 Re: 99 Wrangler lunging while driving [jimmyeb] by mac24

Jan 12, 2007 (10:36 am)

Replying to: jimmyeb (Jan 12, 2007 9:44 am)
That was a real blast from the past........ Sept '06!!!
 
Anyhow, if you check one of her later posts here, you'll see that she sold the Jeep before fixing it.
 
I'm not sure what the TSB is you're referring to, could you quote the number, but you don't need to rev that high all the time. Just make sure to use higher revs now and again to allow the valves to reposition themselves, and to burn off any recent deposits. If you always like to drive gently at low revs you might also consider using a spark plug from a higher heat range.

#683 of 1886 Engine stops after 5 seconds by terryandleeann

Jan 13, 2007 (1:20 pm)

Thanks in advance for any assistance! We have a 1999 Jeep Wrangler 4.0 L and after just a few seconds of running it will simply shut down. We have the Haynes Repair Manual and after reading it the problem seems to be from insufficient fuel flow. While consulting chapter 4 (fuel systems) we can't find any solutions. Not real crazy about taking it to the dealership just yet. I'm sure this isn't the first time this has happened.... It ran fine 3 days ago... Any ideas????

#684 of 1886 Re: Engine stops after 5 seconds [terryandleeann] by burntup

Jan 13, 2007 (2:05 pm)

Replying to: terryandleeann (Jan 13, 2007 1:20 pm)
Most of the 99s have the Smart Key Immobilizer if it screws up the engine will start but shut down very quickly.
If the keys chip is damaged or you are using a copy with out the chip the engine will shut down.
If you have two keys try the other one.
Good luck.

#685 of 1886 Re: Engine stops after 5 seconds [burntup] by terryandleeann

Jan 13, 2007 (5:05 pm)

Replying to: burntup (Jan 13, 2007 2:05 pm)
You are correct! We found out when Leeann went out and had no problem starting the jeep.... I spent nearly an hour out there looking at it earlier... I had a new key that we have never used before.... Of course she used the main key....

#686 of 1886 Starting Problems 2004 X (6cyl. manual) by jeeper71

Jan 15, 2007 (2:37 pm)

Hi Y'all!
  
I have read all of the posts just to make sure this hasn't been covered, and I didn't see it, so here goes:
  
I have a 2004 Wrangler X (6cyl) with 55K miles.
  
For a bit now, it has had a big problem starting. Meaning that I put the key in the ignition press the clutch all the way to the floor, and pray. It tries really hard to start and takes about 7-10 seconds to actually start. When it does finally turn over and start it smells like gas. Kinda like in the old days when you would press the gas to start your car and it would flood the engine. Except I do know the difference between the gas and the clutch. I've taken it to my mechanic and he has hooked it up to all of the diagnostic units that he has, and can't find anything wrong.
I really don't like the way I was treated the last time I went to my dealer for new lug nuts, so I would rather not hand over any cash to them what-so-ever.
  
Also, this morning when it finally turned over and started the engine light was on, so I drove it the 50 miles to my mechanic, he told me there had been a misfire on cylinder 6, so he replaced the spark plugs (plus gave me an oil change since I would be due in 150 miles anyway)
  
Sorry that this is so long but I'm kind of bummed. I love my Jeep. I put a lot of miles on it maybe that's the problem who knows.
  
Any help would be fantastic!

#688 of 1886 Re: Starting Problems 2004 X (6cyl. manual) [jeeper71] by mac24

Jan 15, 2007 (4:08 pm)

Replying to: jeeper71 (Jan 15, 2007 2:37 pm)
One possibility is that you one or more leaking injectors. That will result in fuel dribbling into the cylinders after shutdown. When starting, the fuel system then has to re-pressurize and the flooded cylinders will be reluctant to fire, both of which will delay starting.

#689 of 1886 Re: Transmission Fluid [ufmike] by josieb420

Jan 24, 2007 (12:38 pm)

Replying to: ufmike (Jul 08, 2006 6:20 am)
I'm having the same issue with my 97 Wrangler. I'm aware that the tranny fluid must be poured into the same hole that the tranny dipstick comes out of, but I suspect that at some point my dipsticks were switched. One is very close to the engine oil cap, but that one is much bigger than the other. Which dipstick hole do I use??

#690 of 1886 Re: Transmission Fluid [josieb420] by mac24

Jan 24, 2007 (3:21 pm)

Replying to: josieb420 (Jan 24, 2007 12:38 pm)
Do bear in mind that the post you're referring to concerned a manual transmission. Yours is an automatic and the dipstick is the one closest to the firewall. The tube is much larger in diameter than the one for the engine, and the dipstick itself is longer than the engine one. The handles on the dipsticks should also be marked as to application.

Messages Page 69 of 189

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