Last post on Mar 12, 2013 at 1:19 PM
You are in the Jeep Wrangler
What is this discussion about?
Jeep Wrangler, Scheduled Maintenance, Steering, Suspension, Tires, SUV
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#1186 of 1886 Re: Jeep Wrangler: Problems and Solutions [jeep05]
Feb 13, 2008 (12:39 pm)
Um, how do you figure it is a class action suit? I know several with 05 TJ's with both hard and soft tops. No issues with window seals leaking at all (Hard top) or moisture through the zippers on the soft top. My TJ is a 97 with soft top and it does not leak at all through the seals. I DO have a leak around the heater core, but I know what I need to do to fix that. $3.00 in parts will fix it.
It is a 2005 and probably still under warranty, have you had them look at it?
Soft top? Hard top? We talking about the rear window or the rear windows on the sides of the Jeep?
#1187 of 1886 Re: Jeep Wrangler: Problems and Solutions [erickpl]
Feb 17, 2008 (8:19 am)
the only Jeep-related class action lawsuit that I am aware of is the exhaust-manifold one, and I don't know where that ever went, though I know some of us signed up for it here.
#1188 of 1886 Re: Brakes [erickpl]
Feb 17, 2008 (6:18 pm)
i've not had the problem with my wrangler yet, but i pull a 30 foot 5th wheel camper and my tow vehicle at that time had this rotor warp problem... i went thru several sets before a guy at a part place cued me in that it was the metallic type pads i was using... to hard for the rotors...
i started using a different type and no more warped rotors... this was several years ago though... i've changed vehicles since... no problems yet with the new one...
#1189 of 1886 gearshift rubber boot
Feb 17, 2008 (5:27 pm)
in the center console, my shifter comes up and there's a rubber boot that slips over it and fits into the rectangular hole... when the weather's cold, and i shift, the boot pops out and flops around.... i know there should be a piece of trim or something around it to keep that from happening...
#1190 of 1886 Re: Brakes [nworbekim]
Feb 18, 2008 (9:03 pm)
i wasn't thinking clearly last nite since i didn't have to work today, we had a little party going on...
i forgot and didn't explain myself well, the reason i mentioned pulling the 5th wheeler, was that the braking is pretty tuff, even with the electric brake system... and the added weight was heating up the pads and rotors, especially over mountains, even if i tried to take it easy and gear down...
the metallic type brakes were just too hard on the rotors... once i changed to regulars, it went away...
Feb 19, 2008 (8:39 am)
I have a 24 valve 6cyl. from a 99 suzuki grand vitara. What changes would i have to make to put it in a 97 4cyl. wrangler?
#1192 of 1886 Re: help [jeepers9]
Feb 19, 2008 (2:24 pm)
Engine harness to work with dashes/emissions stuff
Possibly the transfer case
Possibly rear axle to handle difference in torque (or at least modify the D35 there now).
Probably more stuff, but you'd be better off going with an I6 4.0 from another Jeep or just going with a SBC (small block chevy) engine as those conversions are MUCH more common and easier to find documentation on.
#1193 of 1886 Re: help [jeepers9]
Feb 19, 2008 (4:08 pm)
If you are really thinking of doing this the best thing to change is your mind.
#1194 of 1886 Shifting after lift kit
Feb 20, 2008 (5:19 pm)
I just installed a 4" Tuff Country lift kit on my 2000 Wrangler. This included the transfer case drop kit. After install, the manual transmission is tough to get and keep in gear (especially 2nd, 4th and reverse). Do I need to adjust the linkage? How?
#1195 of 1886 Re: Shifting after lift kit [dmdk]
Feb 22, 2008 (6:44 am)
The t-case drop was to help eliminate vibrations from the rear driveshaft due to driveline angles. Did you try driving it before putting on the drop? You may not have needed it. I am of the opinion of why install a DROP kit when doing a LIFT? I had one on my TJ for a couple of months until I bought a JKS body lift and Motor mount lift. The body lift gave me some more room, but the motor lift help raise the front of the motor/tranny assembly so the driveline angles were flatter. I took the drop out. Runs great.
As for why it is hard to shift, your t-case is now further away from your body, which changes the angles for the shift lever. Most likely your console cover is blocking it from doing a full shift. Think of it: when you shift your gear, the knob goes 'further' than the lower portions, but that same concept applies to the rest of the shift stick too. Since the pivot point of the shifter (the transmission itself) is lower, the net effect is that you are seemingly having to throw the shifter 'further' forward and something is getting in the way.
You can adjust the linkage by getting a transmission linkage kit from an aftermarket manufacturer like Skyjacker and some others. Personally, I'd spend that $$ on the body and motor lift. You get more room for offroad clearances, you raise the oilpan up a bit to get it out of the rocks and such a bit, AND you solve your transmission issues.