Last post on Nov 05, 2013 at 12:21 AM
You are in the Jeep Wrangler
What is this discussion about?
Jeep Wrangler, Scheduled Maintenance, Steering, Suspension, Tires, SUV
Go to NHTSA to file a safety complaint.
Or call Monday-Friday (8 am to 8 pm ET) (888) 327-4236 TTY: (800)424-9153
#118 of 1888 Jeep Noise from the Engine
Mar 14, 2006 (8:36 pm)
here's more on my jeep--- now my 2004 wrangler has a serious tapping / rattling noise coming from the engine-specially when you accelerate. it's a very loud clicking noise. when i accelerate, it gets louder. the dealer told me that my engine was blown. this doesn't sound right... the jeep only had 20,000 miles... is the engine fixable? could it be valve covers, heads or could the push rods be clogged?
the jeep runs- only makes a loud and obnoxious tapping noise as if someone was under the hood banging away. what do you think? i need help...
#119 of 1888 Re: Jeep Noise from the Engine [jvpr]
Mar 15, 2006 (6:00 am)
I replied to you in the Wrangler forum. It won't be the valve cover, head, or pushrods. An '04 with 20K should be under warranty still. Has it been denied?
#120 of 1888 Re: Jeep Noise from the Engine [mac24]
Mar 15, 2006 (8:29 am)
I think it would take some serious abuse or neglect to kill a 4.0 in 20K; they will usually last for at least 200K.
#121 of 1888 Re: 95 Wrangler electrical problems [jvpr]
Mar 15, 2006 (8:34 am)
I have a 2004 BMW 330 and have to say that it's the biggest nightmare that I have ever owned. I will never buy another BMW or Mercedes or
German car ever again! The ride is way too rough on dirt roads. You can't get the top or the doors off, and how are you supposed to hose out leather?
It requires only premium gas. It has no traction in snow or mud, and driving over rocks makes the worst noises! I can't even drive next to a curb without scraping up the wheels or knocking the air dam off.
Picking up lumber or fertilizer is a pain because there's no where to stack anything. These goofy high-performance tires wear at an abnormal rate. I can't even install a trailer hitch!
I'm done with it. Tomorrow I'm trading in for a Jeep and can't wait!
All meant in good fun. Please don't take it personally, but we love Jeeps for many of the reasons you hate them. Notice that nobody has disagreed with your statements. Yes, all of the downsides you mention are true. Except for the tires thing. I don't get that, and I'm not sure it can be blamed on the truck. The one great thing you have going for you is that Wranglers have excellent resale value, so someone will definitely want it. Before you trade, check out the owners board for the brand you're after here on Edmunds. Especially the problems and solutions threads.
#122 of 1888 Re: 1997 Jeep Wrangler 4 cyl stuttering [suriano]
Mar 15, 2006 (10:25 am)
Hey, I would change the spark plugs, wires, cap, and rotor for starters.
#123 of 1888 Re: 95 Wrangler electrical problems [drewmeister]
Mar 15, 2006 (11:09 am)
#124 of 1888 Re: 95 Wrangler electrical problems [drewmeister]
Mar 15, 2006 (11:46 am)
Good one. I just got irritated. I like your approach better.
#125 of 1888 Bubbling Engine...and wacky oil gage Porblems...HELP!
Mar 15, 2006 (1:21 pm)
Hi Eveyone..just bought a 98 Wrangler Sport..it has 105000 miles on it and for a month now it was bogging down when I accerlerated. I changed the air filter, and oil and filled all fluids. Right now it's doing a bubbling noise and shaking the jeep pretty hard. It does this while I am in neutral or drive. The oil gage seems to be off the rock cause it goes up and down all the time. When I accelerate it goes down...the sound is like a puttering...with violent shakes. The throddle body is dirty on the inside but not the outside where the intake is (hopethis is right) and the air filter wasn't even dirty when I changed it. Could it be spark plugs and wires? Sorry so long..I just want to make sure you understand!! Thanks do much!
#126 of 1888 Re: Why can't we get pressure back after replacing the brakes/rotors/calip
Mar 16, 2006 (10:06 am)
Last week I took my 97 Wrangler in for an oil change and found out that my front brakes were metal to metal. Lucky girl that I am my husband is a mechanic so instead of paying someone else to replace them, I asked my husband to do it for me. Well, he got the new rotors/pads/calipers on and then I did my part by helping him bleed the brakes. For some reason after bleeding the brakes we still weren't able to get pressure back in the pedal when the ignition was turned on. My husband ( a few expletives later) thought that maybe the master cylinder needed to be replaced so we did that and still no luck. A few months back he had bought and installed a remanufactured master cylinder on his brothers truck that ended up being defective so we thought that maybe that was the problem. SO, I took it back and picked up a new one yesterday. So here were are we new rotors/calipers/pads/mastercylinder and no pressure when I push on the brake pedal. At this point my husband is absolutely frustrated because he is a mechanic and feels totally incapable at this point because this was such an easy task and it still isn't complete. Has anyone had a similar problem with their Wrangler? Any suggestions on what to try next? Thanks
#127 of 1888 Re: Why can't we get pressure back after replacing the brakes/rotors/calip [glenswife]
Mar 16, 2006 (11:46 am)
First, does it have ABS, as that can sometimes complicate things. Second, the reason you have no pedal pressure is that there is still air in the system. To begin to fix this you first need to know where the air is. You need to isolate the front calipers and rear cylinders from the rest of the system. You do this by clamping each of the flexible hoses, two front and one back, with either a special clamp made from round rod so that it won't damage the hose, or some locking pliers with something in the jaws to protect the hose.
Now when you depress the pedal it will either be solid, or will sink to the floor again. If it's solid then the air is trapped in one or more of the calipers or cylinders. You can then release the clamps one at a time to establish one(s). If the pedal is still soft then the air is either in the master cylinder, ABS pump, or the hard brake lines.
The Wrangler doesn't have an unusual brake system, and this technique can be used on almost any vehicle.