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Classic Cars MY FUTURE OLDER CAR?
81 messages, Last post on Apr 03, 2009 at 12:54 PM
You are in the Classic Cars Forum. Your Host is mr_shiftright
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Replying to: piCARso (Jan 06, 2009 8:01 pm) I don't think it's gas consumption or not being old enough...it's just that for the most part, they weren't very good cars. And that's coming from someone who loves big 70's boats!  GM's big cars were still pretty good in 1970, but the 1971 models were pretty poorly put together in comparison. They were still pretty good performers, with the right engine. Even the 1972 models weren't bad performers, but unfortunately, 1973 would see to that. Still, I think they can be pretty cool cars. I wouldn't mind having a 1975 LeSabre convertible, baby blue, preferably with the 455 V-8. I think the '71-73 LeSabre/Centurion and '71-72 Impala 'verts were pretty sharp looking, too. Most LeSabres and Impala probably just had 350's, but a 455 was standard in the Centurion, making it a performance bargain. I think Ford quit making big convertibles after 1972, and Chrysler gave it up after 1971, and none of them sold in near the quantity that GM did. |
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Replying to: piCARso (Jan 06, 2009 8:01 pm) The Studebaker Hawk would really be uncommon and an eye catcher.
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Replying to: euphonium (Jan 07, 2009 12:34 pm)
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Replying to: Mr_Shiftright (Jan 07, 2009 12:45 pm) Like Andre I have a soft spot for 70s boat convertibles. Looked at a 74 Impala convertible long enough ago that it was on a regular used car lot. I couldn't quite pull the trigger. Some of that might have been that it was a 74. That was the worst year ever for cars.
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Replying to: fezo (Jan 07, 2009 1:52 pm) About ten years ago, I had the chance to buy one of my favorite cars. A 1952 Chevy. It was a four door Deluxe and it looked and ran well. But I got to thinking. Suppose the lower end loosens up as they always do given enough time. Who is still alive who would be willing and able to work on those babbitt bearings and rods? Who would be able to reseal that closed driveline when the internal seals fail? And when the kingpins need to be replaced, who could do them? Modern shops hate to work on cars that are fifteen years old much less one that is 50 plus years old. I lack the skill and equipment to do anything extensive. And suppose someone runs a red light and takes out a rear door and quarter panel? On that Chevy, used parts could probably be found but what it it was a Studebaker or a Packard or even a Chrysler? This is why I haven't bought anything. |
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Replying to: piCARso (Jan 06, 2009 8:01 pm) if you see something you like, it doesn't hurt to ask. if your offer is not accepted, keep looking.
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Replying to: explorerx4 (Jan 07, 2009 4:09 pm) Here's my silly Rules of Thumb on this subject 1. The asking price is the act of the seller exercising his First Amendment Rights under the Constitution. This price does not have to have anything to do with reality, unless of course the seller actually wants to sell the car. 2. Never bargain with a seller on the phone before you see the car. This PO's most sellers. 3. Never challenge the asking price directly, as if it were "wrong". 4. Don't talk price at all until you have driven and inspected the car. 5. Make an offer. If he counters, work from there. If he refuses to counter, write your offer down on a business card and wish him a good day and WALK. Remember, the old cliche still holds true: "You cannot negotiate successfully if you cannot leave the table." 6. Bringing price guides with you is helpful, if they favor your cause of course. 7. DON'T say "I saw another one in the paper for $2,000 less, because you've just played straight man to his retort---well then, smart ass, go buy that one!"
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Replying to: Mr_Shiftright (Jan 07, 2009 4:43 pm) i am not kidding. 
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...bring at least one other knowledgeable person with you. They'll spot things wrong with the car you might miss. I've spent a lot of time looking at cars at Carlisle and the guys with me spotted things wrong I'd have first missed.
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Replying to: lemko (Jan 09, 2009 7:37 am)
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