Last post on Sep 16, 2012 at 9:39 AM
You are in the Chevrolet Blazer
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Chevrolet Blazer, Auto Repair, Truck
#2 of 11 ammeter in the instrument cluster.
Dec 17, 2008 (6:23 pm)
I assume your instrument cluster ammeter indicates a charge since your alternator has been tested and is charging the battery when the engine is running. Apparently you have a excessive parasitic drain on the battery or a weak battery or both. There is a normal 10 to 20 ma parasitc drain on a battery on the newer vehicles that have digital clocks, computers, relays, sensors, etc. If your battery is weak or is over 24 months old, a 20 ma parasitic drain can be fatal to it if the car sits for a few days without being driven.
I have a little Deltran 800ma Battery Tender I keep attached to the battery in my Blazer when it is not running even when I have a new battery. The light on the battery tender indicates if there is a excessive battery drain because the indicator light will remain yellow and never reach the green maintenance mode indication. That is how I found a bad power door lock relay. .
#3 of 11 1996 cheve blazer 4.3 alternator is good but not charging
Dec 17, 2008 (8:38 pm)
i replaced the alternator on this truck and still no result soi took the 1 i took off to autozone to get it checked and it was good. the car overheated replaced radiator then this alterator problem started. got a new battery . the volts meter reads nothin. it should be at 14volts.please help.
#4 of 11 Re: 1996 cheve blazer 4.3 alternator is good but not charging [damien96blazer]
Feb 24, 2009 (1:13 pm)
Check your battery cables. Had issues with my blazer. Would charge a battery overnight to Float and put in in the blazer and would act like it was dead. Checked a voltmeter on the posts and it would say 1 volt. Figured it was a bad battery. Checked it after removing it and it read over 12 volts. Cut the rubber boot off the negative cable and reattached and it works fine.
Mar 23, 2009 (7:49 am)
my blazer was fine all day yesterday. i went to the store last night got in the truck to leave all the dash lights come on as normal, then i turned the key every thing went dead, i have no power getting to the truck. The battery cables are fine and the alternator is fine, but it is just not getting power to run any thing on it. the when i do get lights they are really dim and then they go out, but some thing in the engine compartment is trying to work but just can't no power. i need help i need to get it running again so i can trade it in, in a couple of days
Mar 30, 2009 (7:51 am)
i replaced everything from a radiator, fuel filter, fuel pump, yet i still am having problems .... truck starts rough, then it goes but will lose power and not move, i turn the truck off and restart it .... it moves again ..... then after so long it does the same sh_t again .... can u help me
#7 of 11 Re: help!!! [sugar3941]
Mar 30, 2009 (8:25 am)
Sounds like your battery croaked. The newer "maintenance free" batteries don't just die slowly, they tend to have the internals short together, giving that "all is fine, now all is dead" symptom. Your description of the lights coming on, then dimming when you try and start, and then staying dim is a spot-on symptom of this.
Have the battery load tested and see what the results are. Can I guess that this battery is about three years old?
#8 of 11 Some common causes of the problem you describe.
Mar 30, 2009 (10:25 am)
1. Replace the fuel filter, it is mounted in the fuel line on the driver's side frame rail. It is AC Delco GF652 -- $16..
2. When the fuel pump in the tank was replaced, was the harness and strainer also replaced? The better quality fuel pumps include a new wiring harness and it is Airtex WH 3006 for $10. You must purchase the fuel pump strainer (not the filter) separately and it is AC Delco TS29 and costs $15 It is recommended that the fuel pump, wiring harness and strainer be replaced as a complete assembly especially since they are inside the fuel tank.
3. Load test or replace the battery. AC Delco 72-60 and it costs $100.
4. Replace the fuel injector pressure regulator assembly, AC Delco 217-2251 and costs $61 or replace the complete fuel injector assembly (spider) and it is AC Delco 217-3028 and it costs $312.
5. Replace the ignition coil, AC Delco D577 and costs $46 and you will need the coil bracket which is AC Delco 10457978 and it cost $18.Tha tis because the original ignintion coil may be riveted to the original coil bracket.
6. Replace the ignition control module, AC Delco D579 (4-pin) and costs $101.
7. Replace the VSS (Vehicle Speed Sensor) Delphi SS10299 (4WD) it costs $125 or the Delphi SS10302 (RWD) it cost $23. A diagonstic code 72 is a VSS singnal loss and will cause bucking, jerking and stalling just as you describe.
Those parts are plus labor cost. It would be best if you could check the more expensive parts before they were replaced. Sometimes if you do the work yourself, you must fix a problem by the process of elimination, which is nothing more than a crap shoot... or purchase $5000 worth of diagonsitic equipment and learn how to use it. . Fixing a problem that in that manner is not the most economical way but an auto repair shop diagonsitic will cost $90 up-front and there is no guarantee what they find will fix the problem. You will still have to pay for the parts and labor.
Look on the bright side, if you replace various parts that does not fix the problem and the last one you replace is the one that fixes the problem, at least you have some new parts on the car that probably needed replacing anyway just because they are old and may fail at anytime. Heck...sometime I have replaced a part just because it is dirty and looks bad.
#9 of 11 1996 Chevy Blazer tranny problems
Jun 05, 2009 (6:26 am)
I have been experiencing very intermittent problems with the transmission. At stops, the tranny slips before engaging. One time as I was coming to a stop, the tranny actually up-shifted!! This does not happen every day; maybe once or twice every couple weeks or so, then seems to run fine. I have no problems with the gears, or it shifting in general. I have been told that it may need a transmission vacuum modular but not entirely sure that is has one. (I think that was the name of the part.) I asked the dealer if there was any way to diagnose problems w/ the transmission, and they said they can, but wanted to charge 80 bucks to do it, and that was checking fluid pressures & things like that. I would be very willing to pay that if the problem came up during the diagnostic check. I just wanted to know if anyone could help me find out about the vacuum thing and if anyone has ever experienced this problem.
#11 of 11 Re: help!!! [sugar3941]
Sep 16, 2012 (9:39 am)