Last post on Jan 26, 2012 at 12:19 PM
You are in the Isuzu Rodeo
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Isuzu Rodeo, SUV
#18 of 27 Re: 99 ISUZU RODEO [dennis107]
Apr 16, 2011 (1:37 pm)
I am assuming (LOL) you have the DOHC 3.2 similar to my 2000 Rodeo. Have you swapped the coils and plugs from Bank 1 to Bank 2? The O2 could be showing bad from bad combustion in Bank 1. If after swapping the coils and even plugs from right to left, you get misfire Bank 2, you have a bad coil or plug. If no change, one of the wires to the coils on the Bank 1 may be bad.
I would work on the misfire until it is solved. Then the O2 sensor may correct itself.
If you suspect a coil is bad, swap just one from the Bank 1 to Bank 2 until the CEL code says Bank 2. That should be the bad coil. They are pricey new but available at junk yards.
Problem with a intermittent problem is the mechanic can not find it on his equipment. It takes time driving with minor changes (Bank 1 to Bank 2 swaps) for the computer to show it. I have an OBD-II code reader so I can do code reads myself. It is well worth the investment.
Swapping one coil at a time is an easy side of the road process. It takes a 10 mm socket if my memory serves me right. The coil harness plug has a release button. Pull the coil up and out. Check it for grime on the outside of the boot to the plug. I mark the coils with a white paint pen to keep track of the swapping.
You will need to clear the codes each time you do a swap. The OBD-II code reader has a code clear function.
Or, you could take it to your mechanic for him to do a parking lot swap. Three swaps should tell if the coil is the problem.
Question, How soon does the Bank 1 misfire code show up after a code clear?
#19 of 27 IT RUNS GOOD FOR ABOUT 20 MIN. THEN THE LIGHT COMES BACK ON.
Apr 17, 2011 (5:59 am)
#20 of 27 Re: 99 ISUZU RODEO [markinidaho]
Apr 17, 2011 (6:10 am)
IT RUNS GOOD FOR ABOUT 20 MIN. THEN THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT COMES BACK ON. IT IDLES GRATE BUT WHEN DRIVING AT A STEADY SPEED THE POWER WILL START SLOWING DOWN AND IF YOU GIVE IT GAS IT WILL PIC BACK UP.
#21 of 27 Try the coil swap.
Apr 17, 2011 (6:20 am)
Sounds like you could do the coil swap and code clear and find out if the coil is the problem is an hour or less. Most auto parts chain stores have the code readers for loan to read and clear codes in their parking lots.
Over three days of driving to work and to the auto parts store after work, you could have this process completed doing just one coil per day.
Or, just buy a cheap OBD-II code reader. I paid about $40 for mine. I keep it in the car when we go on any trips.
Maybe the coil needs to get warm before it starts failing.
#23 of 27 Reduced Power Light
Apr 18, 2011 (11:32 am)
Actually I could probably make this into a dozen more topics than just an RPL (reduced power light) related issue because its such a broad diagnostics area. I know for most of you it is so agravating when that light comes on and you lose 90% of your engine power. I recently moved from Missouri to high altitude in Colorado Springs and started having problems within the first month. I was up on Pikes Peak, which is already a rough dirt road when the Check Engine and Reduced Power light came on. At least I could coast down the mountain slowly which helped get me half way back to civilization. But the Reduced Power light stayed on regardless of how many times I tried restarting the engine.
So the shop diagnosed it at internal sensors in the throttle body which couldn't be replaced. And replacing the Throttle Body is a heavy price tag. Not wanting to throw money away, I skiped it and the car ran great for 3 months, then after a while it was back to its old problems.
I knew I couldn't throw money away like that until I checked all the sensors first. So I borrowed a computer from Autozone(everyone should do this) and found all the malfunction codes and their probable cause, and the computer came back with a few different codes, one was a bad EGR sensor, another was the the TPS (throttle position sensor), and failed APS(which is an electrical connection issue somewhere).
Now the current symptoms: the car will start and run, but the engines idles irratically sometimes like its not getting fuel, but most of all... when I hit a big bump in the road especially going downhill the Reduced Power Light comes on and I lose my engine power.
So I put on a used EGR sensor, which didn't fix the issue. Then I took off and examined the TPS, real dirty and dusting inside the TPS housing, I guess the gasket keeps out he moisture but not dust. But the spring and throttle by wire looked and operated good. Cleaned it up and put it back on....still it didn't fix the issue.
I'm wondering now if I have a lose wiring harness or connection someplace that gets jared when I hit a bump and throws the computer off???
Is anyone out there with similar issues???
#24 of 27 97 isuzu rodeo electrical problems?
Apr 22, 2011 (12:08 pm)
recently i have been driving and i noticed my battery light flickered on as well as my 4wd light i let off the gas and it went away. the next day i was driving i noticed under heavier acceleration that the lights pop on and flicker on and off until it shifts also the headlights dim! if you applied less throttle and ease into it the lights stay off! i replaced my battery terminals, battery, cleaned up all the wiring to be sure its free of corrosion, checked the alternator and all the belts still no luck with keeping the lights off the dash from popping on and flickering!!
if anyone has had this issue and knows how to resolve it please let me know i am just beginning to learn this vehicle any thoughts would help!
Apr 22, 2011 (2:29 pm)
Have you considered your alternator?
Rodeos are prone to alternator failure. My guess is the alternators fail due to their position where any valve cover oil leaks leak right into the alternator. At least, this is the impression I get from mine. I recently switched alternators. The junk yard alternator was filthy with dirt. I soaked it with engine cleaner and power washed it. I installed it and the problems were over. The alternator I removed was plugged up with greasy grime.
You may have a weak engine mount that causes strain on the alternator cable under load or some such Murphy condition.
The whole alternator system is crammed into a tight space against the right wheel well. It is reachable from under the vehicle. First, Remove the oil filter brush guard. I had to remove one end of the automatic transmission cooling hoses to get to it. Then, remove the complete bottom adjustable alternator bracket then the top bolt (10 mm for the adjuster, 12 mm for the adjuster nut and the 2 adjuster bracket bolts , 14 mm for the top bolt) The alternator will drop down and move forward. Then, you can remove the battery cable (10 mm) and the harness plug. Try to clean it with degreaser/engine cleaner and a good wash/rinse in water. The whole alternator should be able to tolerate a soak in a bucket of degreaser. Then, you might want to flush it with electrical parts or brake cleaner. Take it to an auto parts store for a bench test before reinstalling it.
When you reinstall the adjuster bracket, thread the adjusting nut bolt to the bottom alternator mount before you tighten the 2 bracket bolts to the engine block.
With the alternator out, I cleaned the harness plug and battery cable too. They were caked with grime.
#26 of 27 2001 Isuzu Rodeo, 3.2. 6Cyl.
Aug 21, 2011 (11:33 am)
My new battery doesn't charge. Also the light, won't light up, before I start the car. Were I have to check: fuse or alternator?...
#27 of 27 alternater won't charge battery
Jan 26, 2012 (12:19 pm)
Plz help! First, noticed voltage was low on battery. Replaced battery. Still low. Figured alt. was on its way out. Had it tested. Tested fine. Figured voltage regulator was bad and not showing up on alt. test. Put brand new alt. in. Alt. still not charging battery. Looked for corroded or broken wires. Found 2. Ground wire under batt. and ground wire connected to horn by firewall. Fixed both. Still batt. wont stay charged. Changed charging relay and checked fuses. Still nothing. Thought maybe alarm was disabling something- pulled both horns, one by firewall and one in front and taped off wires. Pulled switch in car clipped wires and taped them off and pulled horn relay. Alarm is still somehow connected- only no sound. Lights just now flash when alarm goes off. Still don't know how to disable alarm or if that could even cause alt. not to charge battery. Had new alt tested also- fine. One more issue- gas mileage stinks. .50/mile. Tried all obvious things- plugs, wires,etc.- actually just cut cat. converter off to straight pipe it convinced that was the problem. With no cat. on I still only get .50/mile! What am I missing!!!!!!!