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Prices Paid: Buying & Leasing Experiences Toyota Corolla Prices Paid and Buying Experiences
755 messages, Last post on Nov 01, 2009 at 11:19 AM
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Includes cruise control, keyless entry (factory), heavy duty heater package, carpet/trunk mats. Before taxes, title etc it's basically $14850 incl $1000 rebate. No college grad rebate included -you only get that if you're financing thru Toyota. Dealer was Cobb County Toyota in Kennesaw,GA. Very good to deal with - negotiated over the phone and he gave his best price with no gimmicks, even when I initially turned it down to try and get other offers. No pressure from salespeople to buy extended warranty-just a presentation of options. Also got a good quote using purely internet/email from Team Toyota in Lithia Springs - a few hundred less, but no options on car. Again, no pressure. Previously had bad experience with Sandy Springs Toyota -all sales gimmicks (mandatory envirogard added to price, advertised XLE car sold 2 weeks previously) and high pressure If you need more info: email to udonew  yahoo.com
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Replying to: carbuyer88 (Jun 11, 2009 3:20 pm) I would suggest not worrying about price breakdown when negotiating. Just negotiate the Out-the-door price including sales tax,title, and ALL dealer fees and add-ons. If you get specific about which ones to exclude, they will just invent new fees.
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Replying to: rosiek (Jun 02, 2009 6:10 pm) |
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Replying to: randy63 (May 29, 2009 8:40 pm) |
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Replying to: abchin486 (Jun 11, 2009 12:17 pm) I just "reversed engineered" the numbers to figure out what my OTD-breakdown would look like to the dealership (not sure if this humanities student got it right though--double check the math perhaps?): $16,294 Car $ 1,141 Tax $ 250 Doc Fee $ 105 Plates/Registration -------------- $17,800 Total -$1,000 Rebate Final OTD $16,800
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Replying to: carbuyer88 (Jun 11, 2009 3:20 pm) I would echo the advice about sticking firm and only discussing an "Out The Door" price (OTD) or "all-inclusive" price. It really makes sense—this is the figure you’ll pay at the end of the end of the day, so keep your eyes on this ball (and this ball only). If you hear “blah, blah, blah plus this fee, and this fee, and that fee,” simply reply "hey, once you get your numbers straighten out, put together, and properly crunched by your calculator, email or call with your best OTD price...I don't want to waste your time and certainly not my time." I figure, you ain’t getting paid to do their math or track their line items, so why the heck worry about this? Get a good OTD and let them sort out how much goes to the DMV, Uncle Sam, the dealership, the sales man, Uncle Pauly on the corner, the rest of the local mafia, and whomever else they might have their books. They’ve got accountants to do this dirty work! That said, sometimes life doesn't go as planed. Here's a link to help you sort through the fees (which are real and which aren't) if you got bogged down at a less than ideal dealership: http://www.edmunds.com/advice/buying/articles/117494/article.html Best, JAMG |
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Replying to: jamg (Jun 11, 2009 8:49 pm) If you pay cash, there's no college grad rebate (we tried when we bought the car today-no luck). So, they can manipulate your interest rate and finance fees to make up the loss on the OTD price. Basically, unless these are set in stone, I would assume that the $1000 college rebate will disappear in uncompetitive interest rates, so I would leave it out of the OTD calculation.
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Replying to: udo (Jun 11, 2009 9:55 pm) Udo- if you are paying cash, you could finance and pay off as soon as your first payment is due.
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Replying to: heyjb (Jun 12, 2009 3:48 am) |
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Replying to: abchin486 (Jun 12, 2009 6:04 am) 36 and 48 and then it jumps to 3.9% 60 (for well qualified) out here in MA/RI. Offer can be combined with recent grad rebate. (We've been saving for 3 years and have about 2/3 of the OTD for a down payment and planned on financing the rest. We were car shopping last year and checked our credit; at the time we were considered a "well-qualifier.") If the finance rates go high when it's time to put down our John Hancocks on their papers, we've got a credit union we belong to that is willing to 5.25% 60, but yeah we'll lose that nice rebate (which would probably be a deal breaker). There's always the option to walk out (and ask politely for our fully refundable deposit). Has anyone read the "fine print" on Toyota's financing? Are there any fees for "early payment"? Or might this vary by each state? If there's no "early payment" fees, we might finance 50% or more (keeping the cashing in a high-interest savings account) just to have a safety-net during these crazy economic times. But it sounds like people think the OTD is a very good price? (Perhaps too good?) |
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