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SUVs Pontiac Aztek Pontiac Aztek Overheating Problem
30 messages, Last post on Nov 16, 2009 at 3:54 PM
You are in the Pontiac Aztek Forum. Your Hosts are steve_ & tidester
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Replying to: pastfrustrated (Jun 01, 2009 11:51 am) |
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1. Remove the air cleaner and duct assembly (duct that attaches to the throttle body)This is easier then it looks and take only a couple of minutes to do. 2. Drain the coolant until the level is below the thermostat (use the radiator petcock for that). If your troubles are the same a mine there will be no water in the hose coming from the thermostate and no draining is necessary. 3. Remove the radiator hose from the housing. 4. Remove the thermostat housing and gasket. I boiled the old one and the new one in a pan over high heat to see if they would open as they should and noted that the old one only opened about 1/32 if an inch and the new one opened all the way to about 1 inch. Da...problem solved for me. The thermostate bolts are a nightmare to get to, I think it's a number 12 or 13mm open end wrench. The bottom bolt can be just loosened a little and the thermostate housing will lift off freely, the houseing has a slot for this purpose. If you take this route you will need to remove the throttle body which would be another nightmare, if you do and are able to be sure to have a new gasket on hand. Estimate time 5 hour because of the vary tight area to work in, using the two hand technique one finger above and one finger from below, small turn many times to secure. 5. Remove the thermostat. 6. Clean the mating surfaces of the block and the thermostat housing. Install 1. Install the thermostat into the engine block. Before installing the new thermostate I refered to the site listed below for a jiggle valve (drill small hole so air can automaticaly escape) 2. Install the thermostat housing and gasket. I purchased a 180 degree which is not recommeded, but my problem is resolved. Be sure to replace the gasket, it comes with the new thermostate. Here is some useful information taken from this site: http://www.aa1car.com/library/overheat.htm When refilling the cooling system, air can become trapped under the thermostat. This will form a steam pocket that prevents the thermostat from opening and may cause the engine to overheat. Some cooling systems have one or more bleeder valves that can be opened to vent air from the system while refilling the system. If your cooling system does not have a bleeder valve, you can drill a small hole in the thermostat as shown. This will allow air to escape past the thermostat so it is not trapped inside the engine block. Some thermostats come with a similar feature called a "jiggle valve." There is a small hole in the thermostat with a pin that allows air to escape. 3. Install the thermostat housing bolts. Tighten bolts to 25 Nm (18 lb ft). This is critical as the housing is just made out of aluminum and you would not want to warp it and create a leak. I guessed these measurements because there is no room for the special wrench for this. 4. Install the radiator house to the thermostat housing. 5. Install the air cleaner assembly and duct. Now would be a great time to replace the air filter if you need to. 6. Fill the cooling system with dex-cool, per procedure in the Owner's Manual. After you have filled it, use the air bleeding procedure to remove the excess air from the system. You may have to readjust the level by adding coolant and re-bleed the system after a couple days of driving to burp the air out of the system.' good luck |
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Replying to: ashesatwork (Jan 30, 2009 5:42 am)
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Replying to: mitch37 (Aug 09, 2009 4:25 am) 1. filled system 2. opened drivers side bleed valve first and applied air pressure to radiator until a steady stream flowed from valve and closed while still flowing not to suck up air. And did the other valve the same way. 3. topped of radiator again and ran engine, right away the radiator would start burping out the fill hole. It does not seem to be flowing around, just burping. Filled and closed cap. 4. drove 15 minutes with heat on, which was hot at start then went cold when overheating started. 3/4 gage to alarm overheat in less then 1 minute after cold air started flowing from heater. 5. turned air conditioner on to make sure fans would be on high, but it did not help. 6. shifted to d3 with rpms over 2000 and no change. The next thing that I will change is the water pump I guess, only $20 Then LIM lower intake manifold gasket, around $50 I think. This could be a lot of work, maybe more then the thermostat was. I won't go into that after three times, the second time I made a mistake and after 4 hours of work realized that I had put the old one back in again, old one meaning the second one which I modified by drilling a small hole in it so it could help release air. So pulled that one out and removed the guts of the stat and installed it with only the stat ring and seal to see if running without a stat would help. That was of no help. Can someone give me a little good advice, other driving it into a lake. My email address is garygruich  sbcglobal.net  
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| We bought a 2001 Aztez and the engine fans are not comming on and as a result the engine almost overheats. We have replaced the fuses and the mini relays and still nothing is fixed. We do not know where the thermostat is (that is our next guess) and would really like some help. | |
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Replying to: corrie2 (Nov 15, 2009 2:53 pm) ore trying to change the thermostat. Also you may want to recheck to make s= ure the fuses are in the correct slots. One for low fan and one for High fa= n, it is real easy to have them in the wrong locations. Thermostat is under= the air mixer, or what ever it is called. And it is a real pain to get to.= 1 remove everything that is in the way 2 make any special tools which will= help 3 say your prayers. I changed mine 3 times, the second time I=A0reali= zed that I had put the old one back in instead of the new one so had to sta= rt all over again. The first time I changed it it tool 6 1/2 hours, second = time 4 hours and the last time 3 hours. There is a small trick for getting = the rear bolt back in. Cut a 3/4 x 10 inch chunk out of a plastic bottle an= d drill a hole at one end and slide it over the bolt to hold it in place wh= ich you make small=A0partial=A0turns with a open end wrench. A socket will fit on the front bolt because there is room, and use a long extension= to reach you ratchet at the wheel well. The extension will pass through ev= erything. You will also need to remove the nut for the pass over line which= is on the air intake thing. Good Luck, it can be done. Nothing worked for = my car and dexhell finally killed it. My mistake by mixing the green stuff,= then tap water, then having it flushed with new dexhell added, still overh= eated and then added bottle water again and then tap water. My first mistak= e which may have caused the whole problem was when I added the green coolan= t. I miss my Tek
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Replying to: gary_success (Nov 15, 2009 3:35 pm)
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Replying to: corrie2 (Nov 15, 2009 3:45 pm) tidester, host SUVs and Smart Shopper
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Replying to: tidester (Nov 15, 2009 4:25 pm) |
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Replying to: corrie2 (Nov 15, 2009 2:53 pm)
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