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SUVs Pontiac Aztek Pontiac Aztek Overheating Problem
30 messages, Last post on Nov 16, 2009 at 3:54 PM
You are in the Pontiac Aztek Forum. Your Hosts are steve_ & tidester
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I am working on a Pontiac Aztek 2001 that has a Overheating problem. I replaced the thermostat and the water pump and flushed the radiator. The heater dose not blow hot air after reaching normal operating temperature. Any ideas? Thanks RDAllison
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Replying to: rdallison (Nov 07, 2008 6:33 pm) tidester, host SUVs and Smart Shopper |
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Replying to: rdallison (Nov 07, 2008 6:33 pm)
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Replying to: Demonicmonk (Jan 08, 2009 11:54 am) Thats an interesting concept. Guess I'll have to take the 2 of mine in because the round vents on mine blow a lot of hot air (kind of like the hot air someone appears to have blown your way). For a better answer I know of a couple things that may be involved. There was an early TSB that I believe addressed lack of air volume through HVAC and I think involved disabling a blend door, I' ll see if I can find more details on that one. I had a similar problem and my mechanic son-in-law found the problem to be loose or sloppyness in some mechanical parts on the left (drivers side) of HVAC system under dash. He tightened things up (no replacement of any parts) and corrected the problem. I found the text part of bulletin: This bulletin is being revised to correct the Warranty Information. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 03-01-38-013 (Section 01 - HVAC). Condition Some customers may comment on a lack of sufficient air flow from the instrument panel vents when the vent mode is selected and the temperature control is at full heat. Others may comment that the volume of hot air flow from the instrument panel vents may seem to be less than the air flow from the floor ducts. Correction Disable the temperature sub-damper door, located inside the air conditioning module, using the following procedure: 1. Turn the ignition key to the "ON" position and move the HVAC (heating, ventilation and air conditioning) temperature control to the full cold position. 2. Turn the ignition key to the "OFF" position. 3. Remove the instrument panel closeout/insulator panel. 4. Remove the instrument panel compartment. Important: The mode door actuator described below may not be found on all vehicles. The actuator removal and replacement instructions are not necessary if this actuator is not present. 5. Locate the mode door actuator on the passenger side of the HVAC module. Disconnect the actuator electrical connector. Remove the two actuator retaining screws and the mode door actuator. 6. Remove the two screws that hold the mode door actuator mounting plate to the HVAC module. Remove the plate, exposing the mode door levers underneath. Refer to the illustration above for the location of the mode door levers. 7. Locate the mode door lever, (1) in the illustration above. Remove the mode door lever by carefully lifting the lever locking tab and simultaneously prying outward at the base of the lever with a flat screwdriver. Be sure to pry as close as possible to the base of the shaft to prevent breakage of the lever. 8. With the mode lever removed, swing the temperature sub-damper door lever (2) fully up. This opens the door fully on the inside of the HVAC module. 9. The sub-damper door may vibrate or fall closed if not secured in place. To ensure that this does not happen, use a plastic tie-strap to ensure that the door is held in place. 10. Loop a tie strap through the channel of the lever. Loop the tie-strap over the upper actuator attachment boss, making sure to also get the strap over the side ribs, as the side ribs are the locating feature for the actuator backing plate. Refer to the illustration above for location of the tie strap. 11. Install the actuator mounting plate on the HVAC module. Make sure the plate is seated against the ribs on the mounting boss. 12. Install the mode door actuator onto the actuator mounting plate. 13. Start the vehicle and check the operation of the HVAC system mode doors and temperature controls. 14. Install the instrument panel compartment. 15. Install the instrument panel insulator/closeout panel. |
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Ok for the past 5 months every 3 months i had to throw in a bottle of antifreeze. i realize this its self is an issue.. however i had my oil changed nothing in there and no antifreeze lingering on the garage floor so i thought i was fine. Basically i knew i needed antifreeze when i was start to over heat a little and the heater stopped working. Well 4 days ago, with out this happening, my aztek completely over heated to a point it was shutting off as i finally got pulled into a gas station. i bought some antifreeze and it only took bout half the bottle. seemed to fix my problem. drove on to work and after work took a small road trip.. no problems. I get up and go to work the next morning.. over heats the same place. pull into the gas station.. my over flow tank is totally full and bubbling. Im a girl. I have no idea. so i call my mechanic friend. he says has to be your thermostat... 15 minute fix ill have you fine.. so i go buy one take it to him.. he pops the hood and laughs at the engine... so my 15 minute fix i guess took 4 hours. However.. still over heating.. so he says has to be the water pump. that must have been an easy fix. he left it running for about 45 minutes but im guessing he never took it down the road. now when i got there to me it was still bought halfway hot, he said that could be the difference between the thermostat i had and the new one. that might just be where it runs. im a girl, i know no better. so i take off home... i get 2 miles down the road.. and big red lights overheating or whatever it says and it beeps at me. i call him.. he says he has NO idea but to bring it back. So im hoping someone here has an idea. he mentioned a sensor. however when i got back, and we opened up the hood.. the motor was not hot. but the overflow tank was full again. So ANY help here would be fabulous!! Thanks!!
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Replying to: ashesatwork (Jan 22, 2009 6:11 pm) |
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Ok changed censor today. still nothing. there is no coolant going to the motor at all. all seems to be going to over flow tank. bleed the lines.. put air threw them nothing... any other suggestions?
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Replying to: ashesatwork (Jan 23, 2009 12:52 pm) |
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OK replaced thermostat.radiator cap and intake gaskets. So what it does is this. The antifreeze will go into the overflow and not go back into the radiator and naturally overheats. So when i pop the cap the fluid will drain back into the radiator and it is all good again. Well atleast intill i shut it off the restart it in a few hours then it all happens again. The system holds pressure. The is no oil in the antifreeze and vice versa. And no smoke from the exhaust. Im stummped on this on and need some help here.
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Well to make a long story short my intake manifold gasket was bad $865.95 and once they got in there they said my head gaskets were damp. They couldnt say that they were a problem but couldnt say they wouldnt be a problem so they were sending those out to make sure they were not cracked and then replaced the gaskets. Total fix $1759.88 
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