Last post on Jun 15, 2013 at 4:03 PM
You are in the Mazda Tribute
What is this discussion about?
Mazda Tribute, SUV
#74 of 81 Re: 2003 Mazda Tribute V6 engine stutter/electrical problem [nikkip04]
Nov 09, 2012 (8:33 am)
Turned out mine was a bad catalytic converter
#75 of 81 01 3L V6 auto stalling out
Nov 21, 2012 (5:51 am)
originally it was just misfiring when driving and had a rough idle but never stalled gradually worsened over the last 12 months and this last week it stalling out after being started up after a few minutes today as soon as i select reverse its stalling out, starts fine after but i cant get out of my driveway!
#76 of 81 Re: 2003 Mazda Tribute V6 engine stutter/electrical problem [nikkip04]
Nov 29, 2012 (10:29 pm)
this happened to me too. Turns out after having it at the dealership for three days they were able to duplicate the sputter and stall out and they discoverd that it was a bad fuel pump. had it replaced and all is good. now the alternator is acting up.
#77 of 81 Re: 01 3L V6 auto stalling out [fi_oz]
Nov 29, 2012 (10:31 pm)
me too. dealer said it was a bad fuel pump. replaced and it is fine now.
#78 of 81 Re: Low idle, engine choke and stall at stop [natashasage]
Jan 16, 2013 (10:59 am)
Did you ever resolve your problem? I'm having that same issue right now but it resolves itself after 5 minutes of driving. No mechanic I bring it can duplicate the problem so every few weeks this happens and I've just had to live with it.
#79 of 81 Re: Low idle, engine choke and stall at stop [albyj1]
Feb 23, 2013 (11:15 pm)
Hi Master Mechanic 7 years. You guys both have 2003 to 2006 Mazda tributes with in comparison are virtually the same as the same era of Ford Escapes. Your problems are your Idle Air Control Valve's. I recommend you go to your mechanic and ask for a quote on a IAC replacement or go on youtube and type in 2004 Ford Escape idle air control valve cleaning. Do not look up 2004 Mazda tributes as there are no videos. the 2004 Ford Escape is the same SUV with different outer panels. I hope this solves your problems. BTW the IAC is located above the throttle body. If you have no mechanical expirience i recommend not touching it and going to a mechanic to REQUEST it. If they cant find the problem its school 101 they dont have a clue of what there doing they dont deserve their pay. If you are to replace it yourself you just need to remove two bolts remove the IAC spray some throttle body and carbourator cleaner clean the gunk and remove the old gasket replace it put back on the IAC and put a Little Anti-seize on the two bolts and torque em down to 10 FT. LB of torque. Before ANY of that disconnect the negative terminal of the batery and disconnect the sensor connections from the throttle body and IAC. Thanks and i hope this helps you. Here is a Link I added in to possibly help you. link title
#80 of 81 Re: No power on acceleration [lv2beach247]
Mar 04, 2013 (9:53 am)
Did you ever find out what the ticking sound was? I remember when I bought my 2001 Mazda Tribute, V6, it made a sound like a bad pully sound. I thought for sure that I had a bad idler pully bit it turned out to be a bad catalytic converter. I don't know which converter because the dealer replaced it after giving me a hard time. At first they told me it was the muffler baffle. The suv has serious issues when it's cold or damp. Rough idle during cold starts and the other day it was very smokey and I thought the engine was about to die. Scared the daylight out of me but after several minutes it smoothed out and ran better. Anyways, I've replace one coil so far and want to replace the spark plugs and whatever else needs replacing but I don't want to put good money into a bottomless pit of a car. Please let me know what you found out about the engine noise.
#81 of 81 Re: Low idle, engine choke and stall at stop [promechanic2]
Jun 15, 2013 (4:03 pm)
I have had the idle air control valve replaced. Wednesday morning was driving to work, truck would barely move, will not accelerate passed 45, I heard a weird sound along with a small jerk in the engine, and then heard air blowing. turns out the EGR valve had a hole in it, something caused it to get too much pressure built up. I replaced the EGR valve myself. I figured that would by time until I could get money to get diagnostic test done, nope...same things happened today.
I read on this forum that it could be the fuel pump, intake manifold gaskets, or the catalytic converter. what things can i look for to help determine which it is. i know it has to do with fuel system in some way.