Last post on Mar 04, 2013 at 9:53 AM
You are in the Mazda Tribute
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Mazda Tribute, SUV
#49 of 80 Re: Idle became rough after changing spark plugs in my 2001 mazda tribute [jaiven]
Apr 23, 2011 (8:40 am)
I chased the same probllem and have the solution. My Tribute has 153,000 miles. 1. Replace all the intake manifold gaskets. Comes in a kit. Don't cheat. You need to replace the UPPER and LOWER intake runner gaskets and throttle body gasket. Grease the o-rints so they slide into place when tightening (won't bind and pinch) 2. I then replaced the plugs and coils while I was in there. 3. Also replaced the idle air control valve. I got my parts at Rockauto.com and Advance Auto. 4. I got MAF cleaner and spray cleaned the MAF sensor. Runs like a champ.
#50 of 80 Re: Idle became rough after changing spark plugs in my 2001 mazda tribute [jaiven]
Apr 23, 2011 (8:51 am)
I replaced ALL the intake manifold gaskets. Especially the UPPER and LOWER intake runnner gaskets. Comes in a kit. I installed new coils from Rockauto.com, new plugs, new idle air control valve and cleaned the MAF. I also replaced some worn vacuum hoses. The key culprit were the gaskets. I used my OBD II reader. When the OBD II reader tell you Lean mixture on both banks, the gaskets are the culprits. My car runs like new. Idles great and runs smoothe.
#51 of 80 Re: engine stall [deepsky1]
Jul 15, 2011 (1:02 pm)
I have a very similar problem with my 2001 Tribute (4 cyl, manual, 86k miles). Very intermittent, and it never happens when the mechanic is open! Mine used to do it only on hot days, but in the last 6 months it has done it on cooler days too. About 750 rpm seems to be my stalling point (which is also my idling point when it's running normally). Every time it stalls it starts right back up, and seems to be running fine.
Did you get any resolution from your dealer?
#52 of 80 2001 Mazda Tribute feels like car will stall when idling
Aug 12, 2011 (5:37 am)
I have a 2001 Mazda Tribute with about 107k miles. The last time I got an oil change I was told that I need to have a transmission flush. I checked the fluid and it is a brownish color with no flakes. The car has been running perfectly fine, yesterday coming home it has started to feel like it will stall when I am idling, stopped at a light or something, and then once I go its fine. It does feel a little sluggish at first when excelerating. Could this be related to the transmission? I'm also not sure about getting the trans flush. I've read some things that don't suggest it.
#53 of 80 Re: Idle Problems with Mazda Tribute 2001 V6 Auto [saxybacon]
Aug 31, 2011 (9:40 am)
Saxybacon, what was the cost of all the repairs? I am thinking of buying one used, but want to have the cost of repairs for negotiation purposes... thanks. Tiphanie
#54 of 80 No power on acceleration
Sep 01, 2011 (12:47 pm)
I recently changed the valve cover gasket and afterwards the car (which was running fine before that) will not go, it starts fine and idles good, but once I put it into drive and start to go, it looses power, the faster I try to go the worse it gets. I've had so many things checked, spark plugs have been replace, fuel filter replace, hoses checked, catalytic converter checked, MAF sensor checked, etc.... No one seems to know what the problem could be. Any ideas?
#55 of 80 Re: 2001 Mazda Tribute feels like car will stall when idling [jnitt]
Sep 22, 2011 (7:51 pm)
I had that problem last year. I should've gotten the transmission flush because in the end I had to replace the whole transmission in the end. I have the 2001 Mazda tribute with 80K miles at the time. Now this year my engine and battery had to be replaced a month ago. Today it wouldn't start at all and not even sure what to check at this point . Bottom line nip it in the bud and get your transmission looked at now.
#56 of 80 Re: No power on acceleration [lv2beach247]
Oct 04, 2011 (6:12 pm)
Why did you change your valve gasket? I guess an oil leak.
The next time you start it check to see that exhaust fumes are actually coming out the tail pipe so that you don't blow your EGR valve..........My story is that my son asked me to change his transmission fluid in a 2001 escape Saturday. I released about a Qrt of the trans. fluid and replaced it with Lucas oil which should provide much viscosity to the other 10 qrts or so left. I took it for a drive around the block and decided to take it on the freeway. The Escape kept losing power until I heard a hissing sound-air being sucked into engine from a partially destroyed EGR valve. I don't know which catalytic converter is gone but fixing to order the rear one which costs around $150 with shipping. If I need to do the other two, I guess I'll be going to some junk yard to look for them instead of buying them new.
This escape was being driven by my son at around 45mph so he knew it wasn't working properly, but he did not take it on the Interstate and experience the Power loss as you stepped on the gas. A plugged catalytic converter can cause what you are describing, and I would have someone get in it and step on the gas while you check the air pressure coming out the exhaust. You may want to check your good car first to get an idea of what to expect. don't spend too much time breathing in the CO gas though-good luck!
#57 of 80 Re: No power on acceleration [rsslmorgan]
Oct 05, 2011 (5:50 am)
I did change the valve cover gasket because there was for sure an oil leak, the smoke from it was coming up by the valve cover so I assumed that was the problem, should have checked the oil filter first, turns out that's where the oil leak was coming from. The filter was loose and the oil was coming out from that, didn't realize it until I changed the valve cover gaske(which didn't need changing I found after taking the cover off, oh well there's a new one on there now). After sitting for 7 months I did get someone to check the catalytic converter and sure enough that was the problem (the one at the back). Been driving it for 2 weeks now and it runs like a champ, until yesterday that is, now it's making a ticking sound as if it's out of oil. Checked the oil and it is low which I don't understand since I changed the oil when I changed the filter, I put some oil in but the ticking is still there, and get's louder at times, only when idling though. Now, what could this be. There's no sign of an oil leak now, so where's my oil going and what could be making that ticking sound? Any ideas?
#58 of 80 Re: No power on acceleration [lv2beach247]
Oct 22, 2011 (3:11 pm)
If you had a leaking intake manifold gasket before, your car's computer probably adjusted to the extra air it was sucking in by adding more fuel (if it was leaking oil, it was leaking air too). Now that you've sealed the leak, it's not getting all of that air that it used to, and your computer still thinks it needs all that extra fuel. My suggestion would be to clear out the computer. You can do this by disconnecting the battery terminals from their cables, wait 30 minutes, then connect them again. The computer will relearn the fuel trims. If this doesn't fix it, you've probably got a fuel starvation problem, which could mean fuel filter or fuel pump is bad. Hope this helps!