- #21 of 23
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300 transmisson rumble
by popachil
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Sep 30, 2009 (9:50 am)
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my 2005 300 has 105,000 on it and the rumbles came back. I experienced them earlier and the dealer fixed things up. I took the car in for it's last warranty checkup around 99,500 miles and all was well. Now the transmission is shot and the 300's use a Mercedes transmission that is better bought rebuilt and installed than having the exisiting transmission rebuilt. Any advice?????
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- #22 of 23
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Re: 300 transmisson rumble [popachil]
by viv626
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Oct 12, 2009 (5:51 pm)
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Replying to: popachil (Sep 30, 2009 9:50 am)
I apologize for the delay in responding. I actually have no advise since my transmission issue is still not resolved. I had 8 flushes about 1 month ago which they assured me would fix the problem. The rumbling began again within a few days. I took it back to them again and they confirmed that water was back in the transmission. Based on the emails on this site alone, this is a major problem which is impacting a lot of 2005 300's. I don't know what to tell you but I think that I am going to either have to contact the state attorney general or get an attorney. Good Luck!
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- #23 of 23
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Re: 2005 Chrysler 300 transmission issues [viv626]
by jiafox
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Oct 31, 2009 (6:45 am)
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Replying to: viv626 (Sep 16, 2009 5:03 am)
Hi everybody...<new girl. From my research the deal is that the ac condensor is leaking water (condensation) onto the tranny and the water is getting into the tranny fill tube which is not water proof , and into the transmission causing a vibration at speeds above 60mph (it's mixing with the tranny fluid causing a strawberry milkshake look eventually). A few guys did something that sounds smart: they had the line from the ac re-routed away from transmission...I have not looked at the line yet to know what size it is, but I have re-routed the drain line from my kitchen (the one that leaks outside) because it was leaking too close to my house. I simply found a plastic L pipe that fitted around the existing pipe, attached it, turned it away and sealed it when it was in the desired position....I wonder if I can do the same to my ac leak-line on my 300 srt8??? Another guy made sense when he said he simply poured fluid into his car while old fluid was runnig out at the bottom until he saw clean fluid running out then he closed the drain point and continued to fill the transmission until his pinky could feel the fluid in the fill tube. Another guy measured what came out and put the same amount back in...ATF-4 seems to be the fluid to use. in a cold engine the level should be at 3 and a hot engine should be at 4. There is a special dipstick that can be bought from chrysler: part 9336 ( a long dipstick with a flat metal piece on the end to know when the bottom is reached),,I hear it's nothing special and that anything that reached could be freakin used as long as you know where the levels should be(at 3 in cold engine and 4 in hot engine that has been idling fir at least 20 min) if your not sure just wait for it to get cold (maybe 4 or more hours), FYI:::I hear the benz c320 uses the same dipstick, My engine is cold and my car has been leaking fluid, I am going to use the dipstick in my porsche if it's long enough to make sure the level is at 3 (cold engine). except: 1-I dont the difference between atf-4 and atf 2-where is the damn fill tube?
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