Last post on Nov 17, 2013 at 6:07 PM
You are in the Toyota Sienna
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Toyota Sienna, Van
#114 of 120 Toyota Sienna Driver Side Door Welding Problem
Jul 16, 2013 (7:31 am)
I'd be very interested in finding out more about your solution as well, Dude1323 - Please advise as to how to find you on EBay.
#115 of 120 Re: Question on TSB: Toyota Sienna Door Welds Causing Clicking [zeebo1]
Aug 13, 2013 (10:24 am)
I have a 2004 Sienna with 160,000 miles on it, and the weld broke. Body shop cost to repair was $430, so I decided to fix it myself. You need a right angle drill (hammer drill), JB Weld, Two Stainless steel Screws with a machine head, and a drill bit the size smaller than the screw. 1, Unbolt the limit bracket on the main door frame. Note how the plate moves. Drill holes in top and bottom with plate pulled close to the door frame. Mixs JB Weld and place a dollop at each "weld point", where your holes are located. Use right angle drill with a Phillips bit to drive in the two screws. Screw the bolt back on the main door opening and you are done! So far it has fixed the problem for a total of about $7.34! Total time 15 minutes, not counting shopping time.
#116 of 120 Re: Same issue on my '06 Sienna [dude1323]
Aug 20, 2013 (3:41 pm)
I have a 2004 Sienna, and this has just happened to me. I am very interested in your simple, inexpensive, "bolt-in solution." I truly hope I hear back from you.
Thank you very much.
#117 of 120 Door Check Design?
Aug 21, 2013 (6:47 am)
My Sienna is a 2008, so no guarantee it is exactly the same as the older Gen-II models that seem so subject to early failure.
Not the most sophisticated drawing, but after comparing the basic construction of my older Subaru to the Toyota, I'm left scratching my head. Why did Toyota take something so simple and basic as a bolt-on cup, and add an intermediate plate held on with a single spot weld on each side?? An age old bulletproof design compromised by a flimsy piece of sheet metal. More cost, more complexity, and unfit to perform the job long term.
Hmmm... having problems posting a drawing directly, but the link seems to work.
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t456/Fibber2/Toyota%20Repair%20Misc/DoorChec- - k.- jpg
#119 of 120 Quick permanent fix for Sienna door popping
Sep 04, 2013 (7:19 pm)
My 2005 Sienna had the popping noise and of course Toyota wouldn't do anything about it except offer to fix it for $2000. I searched and found where people had fixed their own so I tried it today and it works perfectly and only took about 3 hours including taking the door off and putting it back on. I spent about $4 to fix it. There are good youtube videos on how to remove the door panel and even remove the door. It is kind of intimidating but I managed to do the whole job with no help, so it isn''t to tough if you have some one to help you. I saw where people either used bolts or screws to reattach the broken plate. I decided to use stainless steel pop rivets and sheet meal screws. The rivets assure that the metal plate won't pull away from the door again, and the screws are there to make sure the rivets don't shear off. I drilled thirteen holes and used about 7 3/16"x1/4" rivets and 6 1/2" x #12 screws. The door works perfectly and I can't imagine that it will ever fail again. See the pix of the fix.
Tools used were drill with 3/16" bit and one slightly smaller for the screws, a ratchet with 10mm, 12mm sockets and 10mm and 12mm box end wrenches, as well as phillips and regular screw driver. I also had to use some electrical tape to reattach wiring to guides in the door.
PS - If you have the popping noise, I wouls suggest you at least unfasten the door opening limiter until you get it fixed. Each time the door pops it is doing a little more damage to the plate.
PPS - Make sure your window is in the up position before you take the door off. Otherwise you couldn't get to the area where you need to work.
#120 of 120 Re: Both doors/broken welds [belovedangel]
Nov 17, 2013 (6:07 pm)
Yep.. Me too on the door weld. My door was clunking for almost a year-my now ex-husband told me just to use WD 40 in it (ha!). What got me into a body shop was that suddenly it wasn't clunking BUT the driver side door window wouln't go down.The body shop quoted me 350 for the job-I think it took him WAY longer than that amount. Annoying to hear that this is a problemothers have had.