2006 Subaru Outback CV Boot Dilemma!

20 messages, Last post on Jan 05, 2009 at 9:18 AM

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#19 of 20 Re: 2006 Subaru Outback CV Boot Dilemma! [kapl3959] by xwesx Jan 05, 2009 (9:17 am)
Replying to: kapl3959 (Dec 25, 2008 9:38 pm) Well, it is a bit tricky, especially because the engine mounts have studs, meaning that "removing the bolts" actually entails removing the nuts from the studs (which are affixed to the mounts that are in turn bolted to the engine block). That means the studs stay on the engine, so the engine must be lifted both up and forward to remove. Here's how I did it with mine, twice: First, place a floor jack under the transmission pan, and lift the jack, with a 2x4 (or other large-surface-area block of wood) between the pan and the jack to avoid damaging the pan, just to the point where it connects with and applies slight pressure on the transmission. Then, remove the support the connects the top of the transmission housing to the firewall of the car. It should be very obvious, located directly on the top of the transmission and exactly centered on the firewall. You need only remove one end, firewall or transmission, not both. Once disconnected, swing it out of the way. Now, your transmission has some wiggle room. With your engine attached to a puller, lift it a little. Now, lift the jack a little until pressure is applied to the transmission again. Rinse and repeat. Okay, forget rinsing, but you get the picture. Once you get the angle just right, you should be able to separate the engine with some forceful wiggling. There are two short (3/8" or so?) studs on the transmission that align it with the engine, so once you separate it that far, they should pop apart rather suddenly. Then, you simply slip the engine out of the bay. Oh, now that I look, you did remove the flexplate screws, right? If not, you will find the removal to be... challenging. I assume you did, but if not, there is a covered access port in the back, top, left side of the block. Pull off the rubber cover, turn the engine using a 22mm socket on the crankshaft bolt until the first bolt appears in the access, then remove. Repeat for all five (or were there only four?). Replies to this message: xwesx (Jan 05, 2009 9:18 am)
#20 of 20 Re: 2006 Subaru Outback CV Boot Dilemma! [xwesx] by xwesx Jan 05, 2009 (9:18 am)
Replying to: xwesx (Jan 05, 2009 9:17 am) Oh, jeez. Just noticed that you posted ten days ago. You probably had the engine out and back in by now! Apologies....

#19 of 20: Re: 2006 Subaru Outback CV Boot Dilemma! [kapl3959] by xwesx; Jan 05, 2009 (9:17 am)

Replying to: kapl3959 (Dec 25, 2008 9:38 pm)

Well, it is a bit tricky, especially because the engine mounts have studs, meaning that "removing the bolts" actually entails removing the nuts from the studs (which are affixed to the mounts that are in turn bolted to the engine block). That means the studs stay on the engine, so the engine must be lifted both up and forward to remove.

Here's how I did it with mine, twice:

First, place a floor jack under the transmission pan, and lift the jack, with a 2x4 (or other large-surface-area block of wood) between the pan and the jack to avoid damaging the pan, just to the point where it connects with and applies slight pressure on the transmission. Then, remove the support the connects the top of the transmission housing to the firewall of the car. It should be very obvious, located directly on the top of the transmission and exactly centered on the firewall. You need only remove one end, firewall or transmission, not both. Once disconnected, swing it out of the way. Now, your transmission has some wiggle room.

With your engine attached to a puller, lift it a little. Now, lift the jack a little until pressure is applied to the transmission again. Rinse and repeat. Okay, forget rinsing, but you get the picture. Once you get the angle just right, you should be able to separate the engine with some forceful wiggling. There are two short (3/8" or so?) studs on the transmission that align it with the engine, so once you separate it that far, they should pop apart rather suddenly. Then, you simply slip the engine out of the bay.

Oh, now that I look, you did remove the flexplate screws, right? If not, you will find the removal to be... challenging. I assume you did, but if not, there is a covered access port in the back, top, left side of the block. Pull off the rubber cover, turn the engine using a 22mm socket on the crankshaft bolt until the first bolt appears in the access, then remove. Repeat for all five (or were there only four?).