Last post on Nov 27, 2011 at 9:19 PM
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Ford Ranger, Fuel System, Truck
#41 of 47 intermittent fuel problems
Nov 17, 2011 (1:26 pm)
A bad inertial switch, autoparts calls it fuel cutoff, can cause either stalling on the road, or failure after being parked. My local dealer tried to sell me a second new fuel pump after the one installed in my old location failed to fix the problem. I specifically asked the service manager if there was some kind of switch related to motion because I was able to push start it. He told me he didn't know of any. Most or all fords have had this collision safety feature for more than 10 years.
#42 of 47 Re: intermittent fuel problems [physmathelectr]
Nov 18, 2011 (2:25 am)
And, that thing has a reset button on it, if it should be tripped. (It 'should' only trip when the truck hits something or turns over. This thing then shuts the fuel pump down.) It's just behind the carpet, above the passengers left foot.
P.S. If your are push-starting your truck, I don't think the fuel cutoff switch is your problem. If it gets tripped, you have to reset it. Now it does have wiring to it, and I think a relay also drives it. All these could be giving a problem.
#43 of 47 Re: intermittent fuel problems [bolivar]
Nov 18, 2011 (4:09 pm)
With a hacksaw and screwdriver I was able to inspect the old switch. It is simple to bypass/test the switch when you are having problems. Pull the connector off the terminals of the switch and jump the driverside and center socket of the connector. A large paperclip might work, but something larger surely will. Since my problem was intermittent, I will not know if my problem is solved for a while. I did find corrosion on the contacts inside the switch, and there was enough slop to move off/onto this area with minor vibration, which could cause intermittent behavior.
I am still trying to figure out why the dealer only wanted about one third the $130 autoparts price for the switch.
Fuseable links, magnetic relays, and mechanical switches are about the only things that could be motion/vibration sensitive, and humidity/corrosion/debris wasn't a consideration in my case. I don't know of any other electrical components that cause intermittent problems, so it has/had to be mechanical(like the inertia switch or something else).
The third socket on the connector kills the pump when connected to the center socket. Pushing the reset button opens this circuit at the same time it closes the other.
#44 of 47 Re: intermittent fuel problems [physmathelectr]
Nov 18, 2011 (10:37 pm)
Find one at a salvage.
#45 of 47 float valve replaced 2x
Nov 25, 2011 (7:32 pm)
2001 Ford Ranger. I've seen posts with this problem, but didn't see a reply. When I fill the tank, it clicks off at 9 gal. I let it go to empty. Mileage is about 224 miles. I fill again and it will click off again at 9 gal. The pump was replaced last year. After that was when the problems began. When it clicked off after a fill, the gauge would only read 3/4 and eventually 1/2 - it progressed to this. They replaced the float valve a couple of weeks ago and the gas gauge started dropping and now only reads 3/4 full. The mechanic doesn't know what to do. Any ideas? I'm currently on empty with the light on - I'm thinking of letting it run out believing that there are still 7 more gallons left in the tank. Maybe once I use all of the gas, the valve will operate properly??????????
#46 of 47 Re: float valve replaced 2x [fordranger01]
Nov 27, 2011 (2:13 am)
If the rubber hose that goes from the gas cap area to the tank is 'messed up', the tank will not fill all the way.
Don't understand the 'replaced the float valve' comment. Usually, the fuel pump and 'float' for the gas guage are on the same unit and are replaced together. Especially since it's not easy to drop the tank to get to them. I think the guy that put the new 'float valve' in messed it up, otherwise your gauge should work. But the problem with the rubber hose is still there, if you cannot totally fill the tank.
#47 of 47 Re: float valve replaced 2x [bolivar]
Nov 27, 2011 (9:19 pm)
Thanks for the reply - the mechanic had checked the hose first - tightened the clamp was about it, I believe. Since the pump was working fine, hence, just the float valve replacement alone.