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99 ES 300 Won't shift into OD - Ever

16 messages, Last post on Nov 21, 2009 at 2:51 PM
You are in the Lexus ES Forum. Your Hosts are pat & karens
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Replying to: pgood (Oct 15, 2008 10:44 am) If the CEL returns after a few drive cycles what have you lost, 10% extra on a tank of gas...?? |
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Replying to: pgood (Oct 15, 2008 10:44 am) The knock sensors are a VERY common problem with this vehicles (and other lexus/toyota vehicles of the same year). I found the part numbers on the clublexus site by searching in the forums. There is also a post about how to change them out and it includes pictures and step by step instructions. It's not a terrible job but it does involve removing the intake manifold, which can be a pain. I got the sensors from carson toyota for less than what you are paying. Also, the WIRING is USUALLY the culprit, not the sensors. BUT, to get to the wiring you have to take off the manifold, and while you're in there you might as well replace the sensors sense there's no gaurantee that they weren't the culprit as well. Thanks, Casey |
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1992 ES300 intake manifold is secured by two 8-mm hex Allen-wrench-type cap bolts and by two conventional cap bolts. The Allen-wrench-type cap bolts were selected because the intake manifold casting passes so close to those two bolts that it did not leave sufficient room to attach a conventional external socket wrench. I bought both factory shop manuals for this car which told me these cap bolts take an 8-mm hex Allen-wrench tool and are supposed to be torqued to 32 or 33 foot pounds, depending on which place in the manual you are reading. I applied PB Blaster and let the bolts sit and soak for about 8 hours before trying to release them. Then, before applying torque, I struck the 3/8" driver socket into the hex hole to make sure the tool was fully bottomed into the screw head hex-hole, and to "disturb" the threads which may enable breaking them free. Both of these cap screws have failed to rotate but their hex driving holes have rounded out from the hex driving rotating a full 60 degrees! I've tried hamming a chisel into the cap screw's side to apply off-axis rotational impact shocks, but have only pealed away part of the outer cap's metal. I'm not eager to weld allen wrench 3/8" drive tools into these locked-in-place cap screws. But that may be next. I'd estimate that I pulled about 100 foot pounds on each of these before their metal hex holes deformed enough to allow the wrench to rotate without rotating the bolt. Any suggestions? I've got to wonder if some idiot spun those in with an air wrench to have caused them to become so stuck. Any help would be appreciated. Just need to replace the rubber gaskets around the 3 rear injectors because one has started leaking enough to smell gas when driving. Car has about 230,000 miles, 5-speed manual, and given very few problems, burns no oil. Dash light fade out as others have described, power window problems which are not "deal breakers" and can be repaired by competent home mechanics in driveway, AC freon leak after 200K on original charge, still gets over 30 mpg during highway travel, center section of harmonic balancer released from outer section, causing alternator belt to be driven slower than designer intent resulting in intermittent alternator dash charging system indicator light flicker, yet it keeps battery charged so it always starts, and the front shock top mount rubber mounts started making alarming noises, but turned out to be an easy quick driveway replacement fix with improved designed replacement parts.Oh yes, every 90 days spend 60 seconds per side cleaning the headlamp covers with polish because they become dull for some reason. On balance, an excellent car in my opinion. |
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