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Prices Paid: Buying & Leasing Experiences Volkswagen Tiguan Lease Questions
144 messages, Last post on Nov 28, 2009 at 8:33 AM
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Hi, Will appreciate if someone can let know your thoughts on the below based on your expertise/experience. Where can I get them to improve or negotiate?. Got this from a Dealer in Houston, TX. "12k per year is $429.45 and the 15k per year is $442.68. Now, I forgot to include owner loyalty of $500. So, with the owner loyalty and you paying your TTL, your payment would be for the 15k per year plan $416.20 a month. PRICE $ 23,642.00 STATE LOCAL TAX $ 1,493.19 PHANTOM $ 249.00 DOCUMENTARY $ 50.00 TITLE $ 33.00 LICENSE $ 59.80 INSPECTION $ 23.75 CITY ROAD & BRIDGE $ 11.50 INSURANCE & REG $ 1.00 INVENTORY TAX $ 52.23 DRIVE OUT $ 25,615.46 Thanks Fco |
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Replying to: fcastillo (Jan 13, 2009 7:12 pm) I think your average payment for a car this price should be $330-370 or so. Depending on lease factors. I would go back and try again. Get other quotes from other dealers too. Seems a little off. I have a $24k car and I only pay $319, with $0 down. Standard lease. Though, lease numbers play a role, but only to a point.
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Replying to: fcastillo (Jan 13, 2009 7:12 pm) Once you get the MSRP (should be on the window sticker), find the invoice price, again with options that you have on the vehicle. This should be the price you start from in negotiating your lease. Google a lease calculator and use it to see how much of a difference your buy price makes, usually a fair amount. You want to get as close to invoice as possible and if there is a large supply you can probably get beneath it. If your heart is set on one color or option package then it will be harder. You can also find out the dealer incentives, either again by sleuthing through the Google, or buying the Consumer Reports Tiguan info for January ($14). As an example, my SE 4 Motion had a $578 dealer holdback until Jan. 2. I was able to use this in my negotiations a little bit as I knew how much they would still take on the car. Finally, don't put money down as a cash cap reduction. I did opt to pay $919 out of pocket on mine, but these were for origination fees only. Not to reduce the vehicle price. A true VW 'sign then drive' lease rolls these into the lease. Also realize that the VW bumper to bumper warranty is only 36,000 miles. I can put up to 39,000 miles on my car. I'm not a fan of the 39 month lease for this reason. But occasionally VW and others will offer to 'pull ahead' leases near the end of term. I will gamble with the last 3000 miles being not under total warranty. VW also pays the first month on a sign then drive which is nice.
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Replying to: k2chad (Jan 18, 2009 7:01 am) I leased my Tiguan S with MANUAL transmission w/ monster mats and gorilla gear for $320/month tax included and $500 down (against the origination/admin fees). The lease is for 39 months and with 15,000 miles allowance a year. It was a bit of a strategic layered attack...first bringing the cap cost down (MSRP was $24,200); then bringing down the money factor; then going after the residual value; and then going after the dealer fees/holdbacks/etc. There was still some fat for me to trim but my wife was tired from the days of going back and forth so I had to pull the trigger prematurely but I guess it was decent enough. The car drives great and is a lot of fun with that 2.0T engine matted to the 6MT! |
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Replying to: bvdj84 (Jan 15, 2009 3:11 pm) I think your average payment for a car this price should be $330-370 or so. Depending on lease factors. I would go back and try again. Get other quotes from other dealers too. Seems a little off. I have a $24k car and I only pay $319, with $0 down. Standard lease. Though, lease numbers play a role, but only to a point. Actually lease numbers play a significant role. Matter of fact, they are the only factors. I pay $340 on an MSRP $32,000 car (36 months, zero down, 10K). Leases are solely determined by the money factor and residual. It is assumed that you have already negotiated a good selling price. My point is, you really shouldn't shop cars, you should shop the best lease numbers. You may find a $28,000 Honda Accord that leases for $480 per month. You may find a $28,000 Subaru Outback that leases for $350. The difference is in the money factor and residuals. |
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I just test drove and loved the Tiguan SE. I received the following quote from the dealer for the following: SE, NAVI, SUNROOF, 18" Wheels, etc... MSRP $31,305 INVOICE $29,314 SELLING PRICE $28, 814 Which i think is a good offer, however, the lease numbers seemed way too high for a $28k car. Lease Offer: $1500 down, $536/Month, 36 Months, 12k Miles/Year Does anyone know what the current money factor is on a 36 month Tiguan? This offer seems almost laughable. Appreciate any feedback. Thanks
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Replying to: trent_08 (Jan 19, 2009 7:17 am) There is no set money factor on any lease. EVERYTHING IS NEGOTIABLE. You should be able to get a money factor close to .00135 but you got to fight for it. You will also want bring the cap cost down through negotiation, not through money down. You will also want to negotiate up the residual value (perhaps around 58%) as well as the number of miles allowance per year.
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Replying to: trent_08 (Jan 19, 2009 7:17 am) I don't know the current lease rates as they expired Jan. 2, but the numbers I ran with the old MF of 0.00135 and residual of 56% come out to a $392/month with ZERO down, including the $575 bank fee. I am glad I got the panoramic roof, but it is a $1300 option ($1148 invoice). Make sure you want navigation as I have heard mixed reviews of how good it is. Also, get numbers for $0 down and then play with paying some of the bank fees out of pocket if you have some cash. I got to a decent deal doing it that way. |
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Replying to: atltiggy (Jan 19, 2009 9:56 am) The lease numbers are set by the finance company. Residuals are set but will usually increase if you get a lower mileage lease. The money factor will be set on every model and most of the time it even depends on the trim level. The only time these numbers will EVER change is if you haven't negotiated a low enough sale price. For example: a car MSRP's for $28,000 and you go in and say "I'll give you $27,500 for it." The dealer is simply going to rework the money factor and residual to make it seem like you got some killer deal. 95% residual makes up for the fact that you could've got a sale price of $23,000. A smart person gets several email quotes on the money factor and residual and checks forums like this THEN negotiates a fantastic selling price. If the dealer tries to stick it to you by lowering the residual or increasing the money factor you call him on it. So really, for most people, the only thing negotiable on a lease is the sale price. Everything else will be set in stone. The money factor will vary depending on your credit worthiness but the residual isn't going to change until new numbers are set by the finance company.
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Replying to: stoopy (Jan 19, 2009 7:08 pm) I shopped around a fair amount by email, and I found every VW dealer in my area to stick to the published lease rates exactly. That made me feel pretty good. BMW on the other hand had tried to make it sneaky last time I leased. You really do have to put in your due diligence in researching leases before you go to the dealer. Also, be careful when email shopping of dealers that won't give out prices via email. That's why they have an internet department. In reality, they want to hook you on email, then get you into the dealer to make a sale. Sales are emotional events, you're much more likely to cave in person. Don't. State up front that you want to do everything on email. It can be painfully slow, but if they want to sell cars then they have to utilize the (outdated) technology. If I were a car dealer, I would fully embrace the web 2.0 experience. Get on facebook, get prices out on twitter. Do deals in text messaging. I only found one dealer who played the email game well, and that means quick messages, no crap ads, and real negotiations.
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