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Audi A6 Continuously Variable Transmission (CVT)

46 messages,  Last post on Sep 10, 2012 at 6:43 PM

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What is this discussion about? Audi A6, Transmission, Sedan, Wagon

Messages Page 5 of 5

#36 of 46 Same problem with 2004 Audi A6 CVT transmission by c_nice

Jun 19, 2011 (5:01 pm)

Well, it is very interesting to read about all of these Audi CVT transmission problems happening "just out of warrantly". I bought a 2004 Audi A6 in 2006 with about 27k miles. It seemed like a pretty safe bet to get a low-mileage Audi for under $19k with the balance of the manufacturer's warranty in place. Around 46-48k miles, I noticed a lunge when slowing down and the transmission would seem to stick when shifting from 2nd to 1st. It happened most often when it was cold and could be completely eliminated by using the tiptronic to downshift it manually. I took it to the local Jim Ellis Audi (Marietta, GA) and they said they "could not duplicate the problem". I am now convinced that they knew exactly what was wrong and seem to have been instructed to push these problems away until the vehicle is out of warranty. That is a consistent theme with all of the notes that have been posted to date. At 68580 miles, the problem suddenly got much worse. When shifting to the lowest gear, the car would start bucking and jerking. Same thing on acceleration from a stop until the transmission shifted into 2nd and above. I immediately made an appointment with Jim Ellis Audi, but they could not get me in for a few days. The local garage said they would have a look so I tried to drive it there. Just as I arrived and was sitting in the intersection waiting to turn left, the Audi started bucking forward (with the brake on). I managed to get it to the mechanic, but ended up having it towed to Audi from there. Audi service quoted $9580 to replace the CVT transmission. Even a reputable local transmission mechanic quoted $7500 because the CVT is sealed and has little or no replaceable parts. I ended up getting a $2k trade-in allowance on a used 2011 Toyota Camry. Funny thing - when I went back to get my stuff out of the A6, I told the Service Specialist on duty that my insurance company called this "a common problem with that model". He said that is not the case and has never heard of one failing like that. (Hmmm. Probably doesn't read the forums or Audi service journals.) When I told him how disappointed I was that the Audi would fail at such low mileage, he looked at me, and said, "Will that be all?", as he handed me the bill for $117 for evaluating the transmission. I guess now that I purchased a Toyota, I am not "part of the club" anymore. The Sales Manager seemed somewhat sympathetic, but talked more about why people should purchase a certified pre-owned vechicle instead of a used one from anyone other than Audi. The certification extends the warranty to 100k miles. If anyone ever asks me about my Audi experience, I will be sure to warn them about the CVT transmission.

#37 of 46 2002 A6 Quatro by bsair

Sep 13, 2011 (6:49 pm)

WOW.
I received a 2002 a6 quatro with a little over 10,000 miles from my mom in law a few months ago. I've been looking over her repairs for the last 9 years and it has cost her over $10,000.00.
Three weeks after getting it, it started throwing codes for left and right bank lean. then left and right bank rich. mass flow, and even started kicking up the abs (esp) light. Also have the shudder on takeoff from time to time as well as hesitation.
Told a local mech. about it and he said "good luck finding a good Audi mechanic". However he did give me one good piece of advice..."Look for a loose ground". Before driving it again I cleared all the codes and shook all the wires I could find under the hood. It took two weeks before I started throwing codes again and the shuddering. (Hesitation has continued but I think I know what that is and will fix later).
Now all I have to do is find the one or two loose grounds and I think it will be fixed. Hope this helps. I know before I tried this I thought the car was going to fall apart right where it was.

#38 of 46 This car is a lemon by disgruntled18

Sep 22, 2011 (10:20 am)

Purchased an Audi a 6 2007 4 years ago. It turned itself off in drive mode 2 months after purchase. This has continued sporadically. Followed Lemon Law exactly and lost. Dealer can't fix it because no fault codes found. Therefore, they are not responsible!
 
 Four long years, very dangerous driving situation. At one point, Audi offered us $2000 to go away and tell no one about this arrangement.
 
$40,000 for a car that broke 2 months after purchase and Audi is not responsible?
 
Hello Audi: Software only looks for what it's programed to find !
 
We tell everyone: do not buy an Audi, especially one with CVT.
 
This is not a manufacturer that stands behind their product and they do not care about driver safety.

#39 of 46 Can I get a refund? by blue_2002

Oct 10, 2011 (10:53 am)

I bought a 2002 A4 with a CVT about 3 and a half years ago. It had a little over 56k miles on it. About a month ago I started noticing that it would shudder under initial acceleration. Over the weeks it got progressively worse until I had to take it in to the dealership. I had dreaded the day for 3 years, but it finally came.
 
The service rep told me the clutch packs in the transmission had gone out and quoted me, $7,500 for a new transmission and $2,000 for labor. He told me that so many CVT’s were coming right back after repairs that they no longer service them and now had a replacement only policy. All of this was in addition to the numerous other problems they found, broken control arm, worn out motor mounts, throttle alignment problem, etc… but he didn’t bother to give me the total because he knew no one was going to pay $10-15k to fix a $9,000 dollar car.
 
77,000 miles. The previous owner was meticulous and so was I. It’s just beyond me how a car with a $37,000 sticker price could just be reduced to salvage like that.

#40 of 46 Re: 2002 A6 Quatro [bsair] by seacoastauto

Jan 17, 2012 (10:54 pm)

Replying to: bsair (Sep 13, 2011 6:49 pm)
Don't know if you ever found the problem with the ESP light, but I had the same problem in my A6. The service rep at the dealership told me it was the break-light switch (even though my brake lights seemed to go on/off just fine), which is located above the brake pedal, underneath the dash board. I was skeptical, but the part was $10, so I replaced it myself and it worked. The problem went away. It took me about 20 minutes to swap out the switch.
Another common code thrower is what's called the "N80" valve, because it throws an N80 code on the technicians audi code reader. The culprit is a purge valve located under the hood, on the driver's side, in front of the strut mount. Google for exact location. That part was a 5 min swap out. the part was around $60, if I remember correctly.
Good luck

#41 of 46 Re: 2002 A6 Quatro [seacoastauto] by bsair

Jan 27, 2012 (1:22 pm)

Replying to: seacoastauto (Jan 17, 2012 10:54 pm)
Actually it turned out to be a bad mass air flow. I don't know how it would relate since the book also said brake lights. But they changed the MAF and it took care of it.
 
thanks,
Carl

#42 of 46 Re: Audi A6 3.0 CVT transmission [t6racer] by gustav2

Jul 14, 2012 (3:24 pm)

Replying to: t6racer (Nov 12, 2010 6:01 am)
My message responds to t6racer's and just about every other one in this A6 CVT forum. Appears we've all gotten schnockered by faulty engineering and/or failure of a major automaker to accept responsibility. Mine is a 2004 A6 3.0 fronttrack, one owner, with just under 72K miles. I just got the car back from my Audi dealer who reported that the roughness I get from the autotransmission shifting is due to slipping clutch discs in the CVT trans. Tech added this is not uncommon in these transmissions. He explained the trans would have to be replaced ( $8400 parts and $1200 labor), because the CVT was not designed for internal repair work. [Warranty work was done by the same dealer in 2007, when they replaced a faulty TCM (control module?) after the gear prindle dash light activated, and that took five weeks to get the part, etc. Dealer provided a loaner A4 for the entire period.] Now I think I understand why my regular svc manager seemed to be avoiding me when the car was brought in this time - no one wants to deliver that kind of news. I'm taking this hard - always expected my A6 to be around well past 100K miles. The car will have to be limited use only for as long as it's operable. Class action suit? I'm not optimistic - they take a long time and the attorneys probably do better than the plaintiffs. No, Audi should step up and work with their customers here and now.

#43 of 46 Re: Audi A6 3.0 CVT transmission [gustav2] by Mr_Shiftright HOST

Jul 15, 2012 (11:50 am)

Replying to: gustav2 (Jul 14, 2012 3:24 pm)
Is your symptoms that after warming up, the transmission shudders and rumbles as you take off in first gear, and gives you this slip-catch-slip-catch sensation?

#44 of 46 Re: Audi A6 3.0 CVT transmission [Mr_Shiftright] by gustav2

Jul 15, 2012 (4:48 pm)

Replying to: Mr_Shiftright (Jul 15, 2012 11:50 am)
The roughness in auto shifting I get is not always apparent at start-up, but is more common in city driving when starting from a stop light or sign, or in hwy driving at low speed ranges. Can't say the shuddering in gear is very noticeable now, maybe it's only at an early stage. I do drive a standard shift car frequently, one that has a slipping clutch disc, and the feel I get from that is more like the slip-catch sensation you describe. The A6 CVT feel is more like a delay-shudder with an almost audible 'thump.' Thanks for your interest.

#45 of 46 Re: Audi A6 3.0 CVT transmission [gustav2] by Mr_Shiftright HOST

Jul 15, 2012 (8:11 pm)

Replying to: gustav2 (Jul 15, 2012 4:48 pm)
As a last ditch measure, we put type F transmission fluid into a friend's Audi CVT and it cured the problem--the Type F has a lot more grip---this might only work if the problem was a slipping CVT belt. You can apparently buy the parts to fix the CVT but I'd imagine the cost to rebuild everything would be substantial. I wouldn't try the Type F unless the car were virtually useless to you otherwise. Can't harm something that is already broken in other words.

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