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Pickups Chevrolet S-10 & GMC S15 Sonoma Chevy S10 - GMC S15 and Sonoma Radiator and Cooling Issues
36 messages, Last post on Nov 14, 2009 at 6:06 PM
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Recently replaced the head, and while doing so, I had broke off the Plug in for the Coolant Temp Switch below the Thermostat, so, I didn't pay it any mind drove it, then a bit later, I broke down and replaced it, (temp gauge before didn't work until I replaced it) so now it works, after ignition and idling about 5-10 mins or so, it would readout 260^, when stated with the new Switch it would idle at 1k RPM, before without it it would idle at about 1400 RPM then Idle down to 1k RPM (guessing when the Thermo opened etc), anyways, I've replaced the thermostat, and thinking it might be the h20 Pump I took that off, and it's in good order, and even reverse flushed the Radiator. Any Ideas on what else to do, or what the problem might be?
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Replying to: sn4ck0 (May 31, 2008 5:02 pm) You have a clutch fan on a 95 I assume, will it roar when it gets hot, it should. 260 F is getting ready to boil over. What temp is the coolant in the radiator, I use a candy thermometer, wife doesn't know.
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Replying to: gonogo (Jun 01, 2008 7:17 am) Overheat doing both, and yes it'll engage not all the time, but I checked the spin of it, and it's seemingly stout, and no cracks. With the New Temp Switch, it's like there is no water moving anywhere, remains stagnant, and is cool/cold (top and bottom hoses are cool as well) with the Switch unplugged water is exceedingly warm, and I can view h20 moving. top hose it hot to touch. Note, there is a metal tubing going from below the thermostat housing toward the back of the engine, (assume to the Heater core) and it is HOT with both scenarios. Another thing I tried, was the have the heater on with the new switch, and it seemed like it would take longer to Overheat, but in both cases the Heater was ...doing it's job, nice and hot  .
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Replying to: sn4ck0 (Jun 01, 2008 9:43 am) I reread your posts, it did not appear to overheat until you got the gauge working. I don't think your gauge is accurate, check actual water temp .
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Replying to: gonogo (Jun 02, 2008 8:01 am) I did so, had to take off the Thermostat housing, and saw that it was hot, steam, extremely hot to touch. The problem is, with the thing plugged in, seems like the Thermo is not opening, so I removed the thermostat, and replaced it all together, and it seemed to have worked. and if that is indeed the case, (Bad thermo) that would make two in a row. One thing I saw, after taking the housing off, was one time there wasn't enough h20 to fill up to the sensor. (I think that is what you refered to as Airlocked, so I made adjustments and tried to fix that (Jacked up one side, and started with the heater on) has to be one of two three things Thermostat (again) Waterpump (doesn't seem likely, as it was pumping with out the thermo in) Sensor, that's the only thing I haven't replaced (after the initial replacement) Any Ideas on what to do/check?
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My 95 S10 engine light comes on and temperature on gauge is higher than normal. Light comes on after driving a few miles and engine is hot. Have not noticed if the fan comes on. Could this be a sensor, or thermostat? RRT |
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Replying to: sn4ck0 (Jun 02, 2008 8:35 am) |
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Replying to: sn4ck0 (Jun 02, 2008 8:35 am) Are you using dex-cool (orange) coolant or the regular green? If using Dex-Cool you have to use a flushing agent / kit to get all of the old crap out; if not you can run into the problems you're having as well. You still may be having an air problem. You definitely have to have the heater on, blower on high, when your topping off or you can get air trapped in the system. You can do the initial system fill with everything shut off but after that you need to have the engine running and the the heater on to get the air out to finish topping it off. And what do you mean you jacked up one side? Did you jack up the truck so that water / coolant would fill up to the sensor? And you are using water / coolant right, not straight water. As stated the sensor may be out of spec, not sending out the right signal or is the wrong one. But it wouldn't cause an "real" overheating issue as it shouldn't be blocking a main coolant passage. |
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I just purchased a 2000 S-10, with a 4.3 V-6, I am being told by my mechanic that this product eats up the inside of engine & I already have a intake leak. Also that it is better to flush coolant out & replace with green anti-freeze. Any suggestions out there?  I did not expect this appox. $700 repair B-4 I've driven truck more than 200 miles. Any thing else to look for?  Thanks
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Replying to: cachevy (Jul 30, 2008 4:35 pm) |
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