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Chevy S10 - GMC S15 and Sonoma Radiator and Cooling Issues

36 messages,  Last post on Nov 14, 2009 at 6:06 PM

You are in the Chevrolet S-10 & GMC S15 Sonoma Forum. Your Host is kcram

What is this discussion about? Chevrolet S-10, GMC Sonoma, Heating / Cooling, Truck


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#27 of 36
94 Mitsubishi Diamante Station vagon by peter931
Mar 31, 2009 (12:56 pm)
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It is a 3.0L SOHC engine. No engine interference. After R&R timnig belt , engine is not running on 6 cylinders. All the marks on cams and cranc are in position , distributor rotor is on #1 . Piston #1 is in the TDC . I am in dead end.
Any one know where could be the problem?
#28 of 36
Overheating ll... by firstof3cooks
Apr 01, 2009 (4:45 pm)
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I have a '95 GMC Sonoma 2.2L that's getting hot. The temp gauge only goes to about 210. But smoke is coming into the car through the heater. I thought it was the thermostat because I smell that radiator smell, but obviously that's not it. Any suggestions?
#29 of 36
Re: Overheating ll... [firstof3cooks] by gonogo
Apr 02, 2009 (7:57 am)
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Replying to: firstof3cooks (Apr 01, 2009 4:45 pm)

Your heater core is leaking, not an easy job.
#30 of 36
Leaking Coolant... by the_big_al
Oct 03, 2009 (2:34 pm)
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Truck: 2001 Ex-cab 2wd s-10
 
Drivetrain: 4.3 V6 with Auto trans
 
I seem to have a coolant leak somewheres. It comes from the back of the motor. When the coolant level gets low enough the leak seems to stop, as well as the heater. When I fill the coolant back up, I can park the truck and after a few minutes (a run into the gas station to pay is long enough), I come back and it is dripping from the back of the motor at a pretty good rate.
 
When I run the heater, I dont get any odd smells into the cabin, but the heater will quit working once the coolant level gets low enough. I also do not have oil int he coolant or coolant in the oil. No smoking out the back of the tail pipe. The truck runs just fine. The only time it goes wonky is when the coolant level gets low. When the coolant is full, the temp gauge runs just below halfway (210 I think) and stays there. It also gets there quite quickly and always has. I know there is a couple of different places the leak could be, but I was wondering if there is a most likely culprit.
#31 of 36
Re: Leaking Coolant... [the_big_al] by gonogo
Oct 04, 2009 (5:53 am)
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Replying to: the_big_al (Oct 03, 2009 2:34 pm)

Low coolant will effect heater operation. Seeing you have a V6, I would suspect the infamous intake manifold coolant leak, most times they will leak external. That's good news for you, get it repaired ASAP.
#32 of 36
Re: Leaking Coolant... [gonogo] by the_big_al
Oct 06, 2009 (2:51 pm)
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Replying to: gonogo (Oct 04, 2009 5:53 am)

although I am not looking for a step by step process (I'm pretty good at reading a chilton ), but what is the basic process to do this??
#33 of 36
Re: Leaking Coolant... [the_big_al] by gonogo
Oct 07, 2009 (6:13 am)
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Replying to: the_big_al (Oct 06, 2009 2:51 pm)

Get a book, easiest way to have complete information.
First you need to look closer, prove it is the intake gasket, don't want to tear it all apart for nothing.
#34 of 36
S-10 cooling....1st time poster by jetjunky
Nov 08, 2009 (9:55 am)
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I have a 2002 S-10, 4.3, A/T. I just change the thermostat to a 195 deg. The operating temp now stays at 210 deg.( mid range on the gage ). My question is will this be detrimental to the life of the engine, will I see any difference in mpg, any adverse effects in warmer outside temps? I live in Phx. Ariz. so the temps can get quite hot in the summer months. What is the recommended operating water temp? Thanks for any help.
#35 of 36
Re: S-10 cooling....1st time poster [jetjunky] by the_big_al
Nov 11, 2009 (11:02 pm)
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Replying to: jetjunky (Nov 08, 2009 9:55 am)

As far as I can remember, my S-10, an '01 4.3 A/T has always read right at the 210 (midway) point once warmed up. In the summer it has been dead on mid-point and in winter it reads just a hair below. My truck also spent several summers in Phoenix and I had no problems. I have the standard 180 degree (I think it's 180) T-stat. I have changed it once and I stuck with an OEM one.
 
You won't see any damage if the temps stay at 210. What you do need to worry about is that in the summer, you might see the temp range in the higher side rather than the low side because of the 195 degree t-stat. That is something that I would be careful of. Instead of operating between 100 and 210, you are now operating between 210 and 260, which can get dangerous on hot days. Especially in rush hour traffic traveling at only 10 MPH.
 
 In my opinion, I would switch back to the standard factory t-stat. Is there a reason you went to the 195 degree one? People make all sorts of claims pertaining to running one, but I haven't tested it to be sure and so I don't know. They all sound like hocus pocus to me.
#36 of 36
Re: 94 Mitsubishi Diamante Station vagon [peter931] by tork49
Nov 14, 2009 (6:06 pm)
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Replying to: peter931 (Mar 31, 2009 12:56 pm)

You could be 180 degrees off? At # 1 cylinder both exhaust and intake should be loose if you want TDC ( top dead center)? This means that. both intake and exhaust valves should be loose upon inspection or both are closed. This is a common mistake and don't feel bad about it! When you turn the crank, the rotor should be pointing towards #1 on the cap or distributor? Wires for #1 should be located at front not back of engine. Hopefully, this will want you!

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