Last post on Dec 04, 2013 at 8:19 PM
You are in the Toyota Sequoia
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Toyota Sequoia, Hatchback
#63 of 141 Re: 02 toyota sequoia lift back handle repair [lockman14]
Nov 01, 2010 (6:40 am)
If you want to SEE how to replace this handle go to u-tube -http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=30mb2rNf46I and then use the shortcut that he just posted as well - you don't have to tear apart your hand if you remove the two rubber gaskets on the inside of the door to remove the very hard to get screws.
Ebay has a metal replacement handle that works great - also mentioned in the video. I have replaced this myself twice and this time I ordered the metal replacement piece from Ebay so we will see how this goes.
I am a soccer mom and was tired of paying $700 - mine has broken 6 times on my 2002 sequoia.
#65 of 141 Re: 02 toyota sequoia lift back handle repair [ckeehbler]
Nov 01, 2010 (3:27 pm)
Just before watching this video I happened to walk out to my car with a 7mm allen wrench and hooked it through the hole (with the short end). Reaching way up, I easily grabbed the latch and pulled it down. I think it works better than the bent nose pliers because it fits through the hole easier. Anyhow, great video. Now to get the part and watch the rest of the video....
#66 of 141 Re: 02 toyota sequoia lift back handle repair [boxstaboy]
Nov 08, 2010 (5:55 pm)
Quick update....I installed one of the ones from Ebay. It didn't work. The travel was not long enough to pull the cable far enough. However, I disassembled the new one and took the metal handle from it and replaced the plastic handle on the original one. Now it is working great.
#67 of 141 2007 Toyota Sequoia lift back handle repair
Nov 15, 2010 (5:17 pm)
Thanks to all of you and luckily finding the latch part on amazon.com, I just repaired my 2007 Sequoia liftgate latch for $18 ($6 for the part + $12 for shipping). Hopefully it will last a while. Maybe I should purchased another part now to have on hand. Hmmmm.
Thank you all for posting your experiences! It took me 3 hours but I figured it out.
My local dealership quoted a price of $80 for the part and $150 to install it! One local salvage yard quoted a price of $50 for the part. All other salvage yards had none of the latch parts (they aren't going to take one off an undamaged tailgate). I refused to pay after reading many similar stories.
As I said, I happened to find the part on amazon.com. The sender's business name is Best Price Mirror in Blue Jay, CA. I hope everyone else has the same success.
#68 of 141 Rear Door Latch for Sequoia not working
Jan 06, 2011 (12:40 pm)
Read the MANY other people that have had the same issue. Naturally, I have the back of the sequoia filled with stuff to donate, and cant get the door to unlock. Read the posts, and I have the added 'bonus' that my window will not go down (memory is the dealer wanted to charge me close to 1000 to fix that)
Will be ordering a metal latch (my latch doesnt seem to be broken) but when I use the key fob, I hear the unlock, but cant get the door to lift? any suggestions. I can empty the back of the car thru the side doors, if there is any way to access the door from the inside. thanks
#70 of 141 Re: Latch problem [varocketry]
Jan 08, 2011 (4:18 am)
I have replaced the little piece a few years ago.
My locked stop working...unable to lock.
Now I cant get the door open.
The handle is activating the cable.
The cable does not seem "broke"
But I cant get the door to budge.
not sure if the lock is stuck . I hear it making noise but not sure if it is unlocking.
Maybe it was stuck in un-lock position last time.
this is the second time this has happened. Both times when wife got supplies from lowes and she had help loading.
#71 of 141 Sounds like a stuck LATCH
Jan 08, 2011 (7:22 am)
TFOT and Melfinke:
It sounds like you both have the mother of all PITA situations where the handling and cable assembly is working but the LATCH is not activating. I feel for you. This LATCH gets gummed up and rusted as has been described many times in this problem.
In providing the following suggestion, I assume you've read this thread and others over at tundrasolutions.com that describe how to get the back of the door panel off from inside the car.
Here's my suggestion. I have used an aircraft grade penetrating oil made by KANOLABS (kanolabs.com) on really tough jobs such as OXYGEN SENSOR removal.
It's called Kroil/AeroKroil. Way better than WD40.
Kroil/AeroKroil Loosens Frozen Metal Parts!
My suggestion is to liberally soak the latch mechanism from inside the door in this KROIL a couple of times over a couple days. Then try exercising the latch mechanism with the cable pulls and solenoid unlocking/locking button pushes in the hope it frees enough to open the door.
Then really clean the LATCH mechanism with toothbrush of all accumulated CRUD and grease it OR , if actually rusted, replace it with a new one (bolts right in).
If that fails, you probably have the fun task described by peterson70 (early in this thread) ahead of you some fine weekend, but quickly before Winter arrives.
I had the added bonus of getting the WINDOW Motor to respond and start working during my repair by banging it -- as has also been described. I now have my wife roll the window down/up each time the GAS tank is filled to be the motor contacts from oxidizing or it sticking again.
#72 of 141 Re: 2004 Toyota Sequoia Rear Hatch Door Problems [heytomsequoia]
Feb 22, 2011 (9:02 pm)
First off, I would like to thank you for your detailed repair information! I just bought a used 2006 Limited for our new family. It has 60k and I am experiencing similari issue with the rear door. I am not very mechanically inclined, but with our newborn twins, I need to save money, so I gave it a shot. I successfully removed the bottom latch, cleaned it up, went to re-install to discover the upper handle/latch to be shot. It is froze up. So I carefully followed all of your steps, made plenty of mistakes along the way and now I'm stuck.
I removed those 2 - 10mm nuts inside the extremely hard to reach spots. I can barely type this after all the cuts on my wrists. I removed the plastic housing where the cable attaches to the cheap plastic handle as well as the cable itself. I cannot get the license plate cover off! Not sure if the 2006 design is different from yours, but, there seems to be something I missing for me to do. It is loose at the top, but the bottom middle is not giving on the outer license plate plastic cover. I read your instructions 100 times, but can't get this thing out. the 4 plastic trim plugs are crimped and out, the keylock is out, but as mentioned, something else is holding the plate on.